Tuesday, October 21, 2025

Summer 2025 trip to Morocco and Spain by Anton and Biya.  August-September 2025

MOROCCO......timeless, oriental, and exotic.

Some HISTORY

Finally, after soooo many years of suggesting, asking, pleading, pushing and prodding me, it did happen.  Then first of all: around Christmas 2013 Biya and I were standing on the Rock in Gibraltar, overlooking the Mediterranean Straits...and recognizing the African coastline. I recall her mentioning that how she dreamed of visiting Morocco; in fact visiting and traveling through the Maghreb countries of Tunisia, Algeria and Morocco. She had seriously planned it but could not procure an Algerian visa when she was working in Mauritania... an interesting story itself (you ask her and definitely she will be happy to detail her interactions with the French embassy in Nouakchott). 

Presently, Algeria still maintains a complicated process for getting a visa; then large parts of that country are definitely no-go areas because of the Sahelian version of the jihadist AlQaida, strongly manifesting itself in Central/South Algeria, Niger, Mali and Burkina Faso. Then the border between Morocco and Algeria remains firmly closed since 1994.These two countries are arch enemies over the ' Spanish Sahara'. Factually, the Moroccan army and police now installed many check points close to the border areas to prevent ' unwanted foreign elements' to cross over. We are talking here about a border that is around 1450 kms long with few border towns and lots of stony and sandy desert classified areas.  

Indeed we had still planned to travel through the Northern part of Algeria, then the visa issue and longwinding expensive logistics made us switch plans: No Algeria, Tunisia, Sicily this time. Instead we decided to travel to one of my favorite places in the world: Spain! Yippee! We flew into Marrakech from Eindhoven for a fistful of euros and settled comfortably in hotel Racine, walking distance from the Medina and the famous market Jebel el Fna.

Exactly 50 years ago I was also here in this hot, densely populated town.  At that time there was much hullabaloo nationwide about the ' Spanish Sahara', a long and wide strip of coast and desert that Spain had taken and occupied since 1884;  solidified at the Berlin conference one year later.  Now, with Generalissimo  Franco on his deathbed in Madrid, the Moroccans claimed it forcefully, knowing that Mauritania in the South had no means to interfere and Algeria could not mobilize any kind of serious resistance so far away from their Northern cities. King Hassan II mobilized the man in the street and started the Green March early November 1975: 350.000 Moroccans with the Koran in their hands literally walked to the border with the ' Spanish Sahara', accompanied by thousands of soldiers. The Spanish let it all happen: 14 November 1975 there was an accord between Spain, Mauritania and Morocco:  the Moroccans took over an area nearly the size of its existing surface. And more important, the Algerians had fished behind the net. 

What followed was a 30 years plus hit and run war with some Saharoui clans, who were heavily backed by Algeria. Refugee camps were set up on Algerian soil and the UN agreed to recognize that the Saharoui people had the right to some kind of self determination of their future. Long story...but actually this year the Dutch government silently agreed to recognize the Moroccan claim  in  a murky trade off by which Morocco would accept the return of non recognized Moroccan asylum seekers. We Dutch call such ' pragmatic diplomacy' . 

The SIGHTS.

Enough of history. This  World Heritage site of the Medina in MARRAKECH with its main attraction the market area of Jebel el Fna:   floaters, ragpickers, hooligans of all sorts, ' voyous' , sneak thieves, roaming street kids, jugglers, snobs, high brow tramps, bagmen, bag packers, tourists from everywhere, snake charmers, night owls, beggars and bums, hustlers, pickpockets and probably pimps as well.  It remains an exceptional place to visit. About the size of a soccer field you can entertain yourself by viewing mankind in many of its unusual outfits and occupations. 

Then watch out buddy! I told Biya not to mingle in this crowd with a handbag full of dough. I had all my pockets zipped up. But still, while walking/looking around I suddenly felt a brush of fingers on my right pocket that only has a velcro tape closure.  I looked up and only just saw a boy of about 8-10 years old moving his eyes to the sky and stepping away from me, while putting his left hand into his pocket; actually dashing swiftly to the left in front of us and joining his elder brother and father. The three of them being real pros they did not blink an eye and moved away in a jiffy. Biya had no idea what had happened.  Obviously Biya and I come across as walking dollar bills.  As foreign pensioners and tourists we remain of interest  to those who intend to earn some money illegally and belong to the ' Ali Baba clan' .  

After this I looked back regularly across my shoulders and yep again I noticed a loner who was very close, too close for comfort. He also intended to brush my body but I was first this time: I spit him a dirty look and let him know I understood his business.  Case closed.  The art of picking people's pockets on the Jebel must be perfectionized because if you notice/realize you are being lifted and  you reaction is to cry out; well then quite possibly the crowd of Moroccans will deal with the suspected thief mercilessly on the spot.  But it is a great place to be and watch.

the a la menthe / chaque jour

We were having a glass of 'the a la menthe' and we saw the waiter picking up orders while he cleaned tables. No paper or pen involved. The guy had at least 20 tables with the terrace being fully occupied. I asked him how did he do it: drinks and food. Well he said ' I remember all the orders as I look at the one who orders and the tables have a number in my brain' . I was so impressed. We checked him out and indeed every time he served a table it was exactly what had been ordered. Then even better, he calculated the bill just by heart and that also...no discussions followed by customers that thought it was not correct. Wow.  Nobody in our digitalized world could do this anymore.  We stayed three days in Marrakech and went back to this Jebel every day.  To get away from this bustle we visited the ' Jardins de Majorelle' and spent a few hours in a park full of exotic trees, plants and flowers. Total relax! 

Fruit sellers at the Jebel el Fna

Traveling has become easy in Morocco: trains and buses run on time and remain affordable/cheap. We looked up the coast at the town of Essaouira, passing through forests of argan trees. Indeed the oil of this tree does make a difference when applied to your body! These argan trees only grow in Morocco and mostly in the region stretching from Marrakech to Essaouira, and further southwest along the coast all the way to Sidi Ifni. There could be over 20 million of these trees and its oil is used on a daily basis by most Moroccans.  We bought some ' bio', that was stone crushed by hand by an old lady (first pressing virgin oil, so to speak).  

ESSAOUIRA used to be a pirate's nest, taken over by the Portuguese who built an impressive fort. In fact most of the coastal cities in Morocco, like those on the ' Barbary Coast'  (mainly Algeria), started off as pirates hide-outs: Agadir, Rabat-Sale, Safi, Tangiers, Oran, Algiers, Annaba and even further eastwards onto Tunisia and Libya. A refreshing coolness in Essaouira welcomed us: some 15 degrees below the 40plus C heat of Marrakech. Biya had booked us in a local ' Ryad', a hotel made from a rich person's residence and called ' Les Matins Bleus'.  Fair enough, we had a top floor room but for the two nights we stayed I had to tell myself constantly to bow to prevent knocking my head.  It is kind of pretty and romantic to stay in these old dwellings (like in the old hacienda like hotels in Mexico) but boy, ceilings are low, doors small and often dark inside. I can understand that Booking.com does not elaborate about the size of windows and the amount of natural light in a room but Biya would love such details. I actually had a dip in the ocean. And we enjoyed the strong winds and the boulevard: Essaouira has become a prime holiday destination for the Moroccans as well. 

Off to OUARZAZATE  via Marrakech....on a fast bus. Climatized and spacious.  From what I recall this city on the edge of the Atlas Mountains and stone desert was ' a sunbaked dusty old town' 50 years ago with a famous Casbah. Unfortunately the earthquake in 2023 destroyed more than half of the adobe buildings in the Casbah; the government handed out cash to the inhabitants to repair their dwellings but most people actually seem to have spent the money to move out and start a life in the ' new town' . So the place now looks desolate.

old doors for sale from the destroyed Casbah after the quake
                                                                    in Ouarzazate


Only the outside walls have been repaired. Still an impressive sight. We stumbled on the old synagogue, testimony to the rich culture of the Jews in this town.  We were given a tour of this synagogue and took it all in: 4 floors with thousands of religious artifacts, then the prayer hall (men and women separate), the office of the Rabbi, the school for the children; even places to stay overnight. We wondered how the young caretaker (not a pleasant type) and his family who managed the place were able to collect all of this. But the sheer size of the collection gave us the idea that somehow the authorities must have taken it from the departing Jewish community. Definitely worth a visit.  

Jews in Morocco

This brings me to jot a few notes down on the role the Jews have played in Morocco. First of all, thousands of them fled Spain after the Reconquista (1492) and  during the Inquisition that followed the start of the Protestant wave in Europe (after 1600). Many of them settled in Morocco where the Arabs tolerated their religion.  At one stage around the beginning of 1900 there were more than 300.000 Jews in the country. Most of these working independently from the authorities and specializing in manufacturing and trade, education and the arts. Because of their world view and expertise many influenced the society and its leaders. They were all over North Africa. Given the size of the synagogue in Ouarzazate, the estimation is that some 10.000 Jews lived in and around that town. 

After the Holocaust and as soon as Israel became a state in 1948 all Arab and Muslim dominated countries started to kick their Jewish nationals out. By 1960 most Jews had been forced to leave Morocco without being compensated for their assets (as was the case in Iran, Iraq and so on).  In about every city Moroccan guides point out where the Jewish quarters were.  Interestingly these Moroccan Jews found it not easy to integrate into the new Jewish society in Israel: they looked down upon the kibbutz system end preferred to dwell in the main towns of Haifa and Tel Aviv, kind of sticking together.  These days though the tourist and commercial business between Morocco and Israel is picking up. Israeli tourists return to visit their ancestor's quarters and synagogues, as is the case in places like Cordoba and Granada in Spain.  

We also took a day trip with a taxi to AGDZ some 50km Northeast from Ouarzazate winding along the road overlooking the Atlas Mountains. Agdz is an oasis town with few market gardens left.  Not worth the trip actually. Nevertheless the new road going up along the Atlas Mountains to nearly 2500 meters is breathtaking.  

Atlas Mountain View close to Agdz 

We were fortunate: practically all guides, drivers, hoteliers, market sellers and waiters were good and nice to us.  No complaints at all. Everyone behaved properly and with respect, to Biya in particular.  I can handle my negotiations pretty well myself but learned again one thing: never agree to the deal '  comme tu veux' / ' as you wish' .  You haul a taxi without a meter and the driver says ' comme tu veux' meaning you pay as you like.  Such always ends up in an argument because what I believe is reasonable the driver automatically disagrees with. So it is not ' as you wish'. It is like he/she wishes.  
Amongst themselves I could sense quite a bit of short-tempered behavior. Shouting in public is not unusual and yes in general the lady walks behind the gentleman! That is everywhere in the old Medinas (walled cities), Casbahs (walled cities with only one entry/exit) and the Souks (traditional markets inside the Medina). In a city like Casablanca and then in particular in the French quarter where we stayed, it is normal to see groups of women frequent  the outside terraces, sip tea and munch  cake.  These days Morocco goes through a lot of societal change, in the cities to start with.  

Our visit to FES and MEKNES (two very old cities where previously the rulers of Morocco resided on and off) confirmed again that in my case my orientation capacity has already reduced quite a bit.  When my friend and I roamed the Medinas here fifty years ago we were able pretty quickly to  find our way, for example find our way through the maze of alleys in Fes and visit the tanneries where the cowhides were prepared and dyed in many colours to be turned into the famous prime quality Moroccan leather. Close to the slaughterhouse this was a pretty filthy, ill smelling area; then hugely interesting because this work was done by groups of the same families (many of these very young boys!) for generation after generation  working every day in the tannery pits.  I gave up trying to locate the tannery area by myself this time.

One of the 17 entrances Medina in Fes / Bab Boujloud

The Medina in Fes is the largest populated area in the world where cars cannot pass. Carts and donkeys still handle the logistics and at times you hear a shout behind you when a man/woman wants to pass with an enormous pile of fodder or a huge bag of stuff. 

Fatima our certified guide (Arabic, Spanish, French, English all fluent) painted the picture of the Medina: about 1500 streets of which many dead- end alleys, a population estimated at 200.000, some 3.000 big/small/one room Ryad's, and more than 20 caravanseraies ( in the old days these were squares where the trading nomads with their animals could off and upload, and rest for the night). Pour la petite histoire....I lived for more than three years next to a camel caravanseraie in Agadez, Niger (1979-1982).  The Medinas in Fes and Meknes are real labyrinths but safe during the day. Fatima pointed out the  wandering police in civilian. Only at night something could happen to a tourist.... though unlikely we were told. 

The tourist related business in Fes must be enormous. Practically all travel agencies book this city. And almost all travellers pass through it to drink up the medieval atmosphere and the uniqueness of this Medina. This is Morocco as it was and will remain for decades to come. We stayed close to the Blue Gate (Bab Boujloud) in a luxurious Ryad, a room of 45 m2 overlooking the inner patio that was decked with carpets amidst a fountain. Always some staff available to serve tea. From the outside the alley was not more than 2 meters wide. Then you enter and a world of ' Aladdin' opens up...space, smells, traditional artifacts, carpets and colours. No wonder tourists enjoy Morocco.  

Breakfast in our hotel (Ryad)

Equally Meknes was impressive with the Place Al-Hadim and its famous spices market.

Definitely tasty olives

Also its national traditional Berber musical instruments  museum where we spent many pleasant hours.
Two horn trumpet, only in Morocco 

 The region around Meknes is the grain and grapes producing area of Morocco...therefore rich. Battles took place in the past that decided who will be the new boss/sultan. Battles between the Saracens and Christians (from Portugal and Spain).  Following such battles soldiers were made slaves and in Meknes, next to the Palace and mausoleum of King Moulay Idriss,  an underground prison still exists that could house over 15.000 Christian slaves (the prison is still operational, in part modernized and unaccessible to visitors of course).  

Finally on our way to CASABLANCA, a city made famous  by the movie of the same name! 

Must see movie: Humphrey and Ingrid

And Rick's cafe is still there! Ahhhh, what a deception: the old train station ' Casa-voyageurs' was no more. A new and clean railway compound has been constructed. No stalls, nor ambulant hawkers, no hustle and bustle anymore in the large empty square in front of the station; the whole now sanitized. The advantage is that one can get into the modern tram in front of the station at a price few citizens can afford ( one euro each ride!).  

We rode to the French quarter and checked into the Hotel de Paris, built as of 1928, but also modernized recently. Then the ' colonial atmosphere' with its cafes, bars, shops, French looking residences with balconies...it is still there. It felt like being in Paris, Porte de la Chapelle,  some 60 years ago.  Our hotel manager really was helpful and tried to charm the wits out of Biya later because we came down from the top floor room with a list of dysfunctional ' items' : only one towel, shower head leaking, aircon liquid leaking inside the room, washbasin clogged, balcony flooded with dirt and water from the neighbouring room. But there was premium soap, laced with argan oil in the bathroom.  That at least! Later on, when most was provisionally repaired, the manager tried several times to influence Biya to write a positive review on the hotel's Booking.com site. How dare he asking for this. I could not believe it. Of course Biya did not.  

But we did enjoy walking around Casablanca, going to the Ain Diab beach area, trying to visit the Cathedral that was closed and where the government had removed the crosses from the spires. We spent time watching young dare-devils jumping from the walls of the Hassan II Mosque into the churning waves of the sea some eight meters below while waiting for the sunset. 

 ' Honey bee, let us take the TGV (train a grande vitesse) to TANGIERS'.  It only took two and a half hours from Casa to Tangiers, the place to be in Morocco for most young Moroccans.  

I was told by Mohidi, our receptionist in Ouarzazate that ' Monsieur Anton, this is so simple because Tangiers has always been international, a smuggler's place where fortunes can be made and from where you can see, and dream, of Europe. All new stuff in Morocco enters through Tangiers. And we, young Moroccans want to leave the country and join our brothers in Europe' .  Right on!;  this reflects the voice of the young man in the street.  And considering the extremely high unemployment rate this is not surprising. Fatima, our guide in Fes who has a university degree mentioned that ' without serious monies for prepaid return tickets, health insurance, a large amount of money deposited in a bank account, in the name of the applicant, plus a hefty amount to stay in Europe for three months I could never get a Schengen visa'.  She could not tell me the exact amount but to get a tourist visa I assume one needs more than 7.000 euros to present as cash at hand. And the monthly salary of a mid level office worker in Morocco is not more than 500 euros not to speak of lowly remunerated assistants jobs which are plenty in the country(side).  

Tangiers indeed proved to me a revelation: old and new amalgamation. We loved the old places: the port, the Medina, the terraces to eat fresh food, lots of fish of course. And the crowds with most of the shopkeepers being able to speak a melange of French, Spanish and English.  We checked into a Ryad close to the central Place Grand Sokkho and I was able to find my way soon through the warren of alleys down to the port to buy our ferry tickets. 

We were walking to our hotel finishing a stroll along the sea when suddenly I smelled marihuana; indeed at the corner a fruit seller and his mate were smoking ' kif' , the lesser quality part of harvested marihuana. I engaged the laughing men into a conversation and of course Moroccan hospitality obliged: ' Vous voulez fumer Monsieur?' / you want to have a smoke Sir? 'Yes I would but no I won't' . He mentioned that ' kif' remains tolerated in Morocco and especially the older generation smokes it a lot. Haschisch, the compacted version of premium marihuana and a fair bit stronger has been banned by the authorities. So it goes; indeed the days (in the seventies and eighties) that the Ketama mountain area in the Northeast supplied Europe with the bulk of its ' yellow Ketama' are over. Moroccan haschisch was relatively cheap and of constant quality compared to the soft drugs from Afghanistan, Pakistan and Nepal.  Then if I would have been without Biya I think I could have decided to share a few puffs with these fruit sellers and participate in their fun. 

Once we had our ferry tickets from Tangiers port to Tarifa in Spain in our pockets Biya wanted to spend our last dirhams and buy souvenirs....Wow, my wife can haggle. Fortunately the merchants accepted her tough negotiations with the look of  a ' farmer who has a toothache'  (this is a unique Dutch expression!). I felt at times seriously embarrassed. And I remain certain that if I would have done the same detailed penny haggling until the last five dirham, they would have turned their back on me. Then Biya can charm these guys. In the end all is good and they loved having taken their picture with her. 

We spent a few hours in a place called the ' American Legation', in the centre of the Medina. When the Americans were trying/fighting to get their independence from England, it was Sultan Mohammed III of Morocco (then residing in Tangiers) who recognized the USA in 1777 to be, as their first ever ally! He allowed American ships (war/trade) into his ports. This really paid off because the Yanks have ever since kept a sweet feeling for Morocco.  During world War II their marines kicked the French Vichy-side out of Morocco in a few weeks time, and during  Trump's previous mandate as President, the first country he visited in Africa was Morocco.  The Legation is full of detailed history, memorabilia and of portraits of American expats who loved to live like nobility in a country that knows what hospitality means. 


We spent a full 15 days in Morocco...Marrakech-Essaouira-Ouarzazate-Agdz-Fes-Meknes-Casablanca-Tangiers, 


Here is a recipe for traditional Moroccan salad ( a side dish) ; we ate this nearly every day:  

ripe tomatoes sliced up

cut-up cucumber pieces

tiny onion rings

mild bell peppers/paprika

fresh coriander and parsley

all of the above drowned in olive oil and vinegar and to be devoured with a peace of fresh and warm flat bread

Healthy stuff. Then we had liters of ' the a la menthe' the national drink. And can you believe it....we consumed no alcohol at all while we were in Morocco.  It is there but not over the counter; one has to go and look for it in kind of pubs and evening bars. 


We also ate a lot of ' tagine'  a national dish that is a mix of vegetables, including potatoes and often pieces of beef, lamb or chicken; cooked in typical cone formed claypots that heat up slowly on charcoal. Recipes vary from region to region. I enjoyed the recipe on the street in Casablanca most: with aubergines, chicken and lamb.  

Ahmed Taddert preparing tagine at his roadside resto in Telouet

A tagine resto in the streets of Casablanca ( costs 10 dirham is 1 euro)

There is a famous song from Crosby, Stills, Nash & Young about when Graham Nash travelled by train from Casablanca to Marrakech in 1966. The Hollies did not like the song he composed ' the Marrakech Express' but his future band CSN&Y in the USA did!  It became a small hit in the NL and this song is in my personal Top 2000.

Anton overlooking the Jebel el Fna


SPAIN..........a country I could/should have settled in after my retirement in 2017.  Both Biya and I have each been in Spain perhaps 10 times.  And we plan already another Camino that will take us from Porto in Portugal to Santiago de Compostela next summer 2026. 

The SIGHTS.

I was impressed by the relatively smooth handling of returning Moroccan families to mainland Europe. Summertime,  the ferry operates 12 times daily and it was stacked with fully loaded cars.  The Moroccans know by now that without a proper visa the chance of getting on board is absolutely zero.  Surprisingly I did not see any sniffer dogs to alert the police to drug smuggling.  All good then and in less than one hour we landed in Tarifa, Spain and got a free ride by bus to ALGECIRAS (compliments to the shipping company). 

At the railhead of the station in Algeciras  I observed a short,  elderly man in a what looked like a woolen overcoat, smoking a cigarette. ' Enjoying your smoke Sir?' I said in Spanish. He looked at me frightfully and wanted to stub out his red Marlboro fag. ' No, no Sir you are allowed to smoke here, outside the building' . 'Sorry, no Spanish' he responded in English. We started to talk and he presented himself as Liem, a US citizen of  Vietnamese origin who had escaped the war with many other boat people in 1975, was picked up by the US navy on the open seas, and granted asylum and a new life in Arkansas where he became a Professor at the university. Looking very fragile, he turned out to be street smart and a real character, such one only meets when traveling with a backpack. A practicing Roman Catholic he had decided to travel all around Europe hitting the religious highlights and cathedrals from Santiago de Compostela, to Fatima, Lourdes, Paris, Aachen, Cologne, Milan, Rome to return in two months back to the USA. He had no phone....a lot of cash hidden in his oversized coat, a few A4 size sheets (with another copy in his travel bag with his itinerary) and some useful addresses, plus three travel bags that made him in our opinion vulnerable, attackable... He did have a credit card though. 

The unforgettable Mr. Liem / look at his snazzy Fila boots


We travelled a few hours on the train with Mr. Liem (he proclaimed himself to be 75, never married, and happily retired). We became friends immediately. Actually we loved him straight away and wanted to protect him with all kinds of advice. No joke though, Mr. Liem knew how to get around. Any question we fired off he answered with a rational answer that suited his personal situation. ' I love money and I am lazy' he said several times. By that he meant ' love money to be used properly' and ' lazy if it comes to do non essential chores' . Haha, he was too lazy to put his dentures on coz he said ' I never learned how to speak properly with them' (again, because he was too lazy). I handed him my card and said he should get in contact if he thinks I could be of assistance....' not good enough Anton! You should have invited him to visit us in Leende' ! God bless Mr. Liem. 

Next stop was RONDA, a famous town from the days the Christians battled with the Muslims. The site is breathtaking where the river Guadalevin has created a 100 meter deep ravine called 'El Tajo'  (the gorge) that you can wander along.

Ronda, top of the cliff at the bridge

 The town attracts mostly Spanish tourists (many are day travelers from Malaga and Marbella) and exhales a quiet, festive atmosphere. We did a few days of  'niksen' : relaxing, enjoying our Hotel Andalucia in front of of the railway station, taking a long, slow hike of  probably 14 kms down the valley,  circling the town halfway from below. We admired the rock formations and smelled the harvested grain fields that were turned into yellow and ochre. Inhaling the sights. Yes, this is a place to stay a few days longer...; and we had found a restaurant ' La Quinta' with a 'menu del dia' that was good enough for us.  We recommend travelers of any age to go and stay in this walkable town.  We even walked a mile or so on the Camino Serrano one of the many walking roads leading to the Camino de la Plata. 

The train ride from Ronda to CORDOBA was beautiful: grain fields and olive plantations forever. Few villages; we crossed mostly a remote area, even by Spanish standards. The air-conditioned train may have caused my cold which a day later became so strong that  my watery nose ran faster than the Han river in Korea.  Just for a few days.....and one day my heart raced unusually fast....that was also Cordoba....must have been too much Rioja. For the rest health remained good. Biya's health performed well throughout the trip. We thank God! 

Again, we felt Cordoba is yet another underrated location. The Cathedral which had been a mosque before the Reconquista is so impressive.  The town sported the largest mosque in Europe around the year1200 and it was the centre of Muslim spirituality on the Iberian peninsula.   The Cathedral towers over, and is next to the river Guadalquivir that slowly moves towards Seville. We spent quite a bit of time on its Roman bridge and along the river; in the Cathedral and in the old town, section Jewish quarter where we walked into 'Bodega Guzman' around 11am for a rest.  We discovered the local 'Montilla'  poured directly from the 60 liter barrel (similar to dry sherry) and sipped it with a plate of marinated anchovies on the side.

So good that next day we returned for more! We were not alone: locals did the same nearly every day...no wonder since a large flute of this superb 'Montilla' only costs 1 euro in this bodega.

We had not initially planned it but when Biya's old and close friend Morana out of the blue sent her a note while we were in Morocco, we said 'yes, let us go and see  her family in MADRID and visit the Prado museum as well'. That turned out to be a winner again.  We arrived at the Madrid-Atocha railway station and found our way by subway and foot to their comfortable apartment.  Great family: Kevin, Morana and two lively boys Blaise and Jordan.  The family had just moved from Washington to Madrid and was literally living amongst suitcases in their apartment; waiting for their stuff to arrive shortly.  Actually it arrived on the day we were there.  I personally appreciate it very much that we were welcomed so cordially amongst their boxes and embassy furniture.  It was easy to take a bus to the Prado museum; we spent six and a half hours inside. WOW, the concept proved to be so different from any museum in the NL. When you go to the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam you will find a few well selected pieces/paintings from the most important periods in Dutch history. Inside  the Prado museum you will find large rooms adjacent with practically all the paintings of the most famous Spanish painters including Goya, Velasquez, El Greco, El Bosque, de Zurbaran, Murillo and so on....though only very few Picassos and no Dali's at all. I guess the museum makes money by lending paintings to other museums the world over. 

By the way 'El Bosque' is a Dutch painter, name of Hieronymus Bosch,  who lived under Spanish occupation during the 80 years war after which my country became independent. Were his paintings (very innovative style as well!) after his death in 1516 sold to the Spanish King Phillip II for the market  price or were we robbed?  I guess we shall never find out the truth.  We also viewed the Royal Palace from the outside since it closed already at 5pm.  And relaxed while listening to a gipsy playing his accordeon. Nice place too, with a view as far as Toledo.  And we did a fair bit of walking; slowly, but Biya's knees made it including the last days in Madrid and Valencia; often with a backpack. Yes, my lady is heavy duty!

Biya had booked a room with a view and terrace in the 'Dormavalencia apartments' close to the port of  VALENCIA in the Grau neighborhood.  Once in a while (1 out of 10) the place she books does not reflect the marketed promises: the terrace was not accessible and full of pigeon-poop. And the view was a dirty old wall, two meters from our windows. Ah, Biya was furious but then we settled for it. Stuff happens! The room was spacious and we could make coffee and prepare some soup for a change. Our main objective was the beach and sea, and we really enjoyed the large beach, its fine sand, the sun and wind, and the water with a temperature I guess of 21 degrees.  We swam and felt good. We simply relaxed and walked through the Grau neighborhood, along the port, ate some fish, drank wine, talked and talked, and  considered this trip as yet another holidays that we will cherish with its splendid memories. 

We spent a full 11 days in Spain...Tarifa- Algeciras-Ronda-Cordoba-Madrid-Valencia / then flight back to Eindhoven with Ryan Air, and bus to Leende.


Friday, October 17, 2025



Dommeltocht Cor, Ton, Gerard. Deel 2  van Den Bosch naar Valkenswaard. 


Samen op weg / vol goede moed!

Het traject Den Bosch naar Son en Breugel  liepen we op 21 en 22 juni (2025). Dit als vervolg op deel 1 van Valkenswaard (de Malpie) naar Wijchmaal (B) gedurende juli 2024. Ook te lezen op deze blogsite. 

De Dommel was zo' n 1000-1500 jaar geleden veel breder en dieper; mogelijkerwijs werd zij bevaren door de Romeinen, alhoewel daar nog geen archeologisch bewijs voor is gevonden. De eerste melding van de rivier wordt in geschrift gedaan door Bisschop Willibrord  in 725 na C.  met de naam ' Duthmala'.  Volgens A.I. is deze naam opgebouwd uit twee Oudnederlandse delen: ' duth' of ' dom'  (mogelijk van dodde of riet) en ' mala' (dal of laagte). Hmm, makes sense to me!

Eerst nog wat uitzonderlijke info:  tussen Eindhoven, en Son en Breugel kruist de Dommel het Wilhelminakanaal. De Dommel stroomt hier onder het hoger gelegen kanaal door, net zoals de rivier dat eerder al in Neerpelt doet onder het Maas-Scheldekanaal.


Door OpenStreetMap van de Dommel rivier

Over een lengte van iets meer dan 120km stroomt deze regenrivier vanaf de bron in een weiland in Wijchmaal (gemeente Peer, België) via Pelt, Valkenswaard, Eindhoven, Boxtel en Vught naar Den Bosch. Hoogteniveau bij de bron is 77 meter; bij de monding in de Dieze slechts 4 meter boven NAP. Het verhang is berekend op 0,61meter per kilometer; en het debiet gemiddeld over het jaar komt op 14 kubieke meter per seconde.  Een rustig voortkabbelende rivier dus.

In de bossen rond Vught

De dag begon prachtig aldaar waar de Dommel in de Dieze stroomt die uiteindelijk weer uitkomt in de Maas. Den Bosch of de officiële   benaming s'- Hertogenbosch heeft een mooie historische kern met veel patriciershuizen en uiteraard de Sint Janskathedraal. De binnenstad ligt direct aan de Dieze en Dommel. We begonnen te wandelen; ook weer langs het nu officiële  wandelpad en kwamen zeer snel aan de rand van stad waar 'onze rivier' een slinger vormt zuidwaarts.
Prachtig weer onderweg: let the sunshine in!

Op een kilometer afstand van de stad kan iedere wandelaar zien vanaf het pontje dat met een draaiwiel werkt om aan de overkant te komen, dat de Dommel deel uitmaakt van de historische waterwerken die de stad beschermd hebben ten tijde van de 80 jarige oorlog (1568-1648). De Spanjaarden werden verdreven maar roofden de stad leeg en met name stalen de schilderijen van Hiëronymus Bosch waarvan er velen nu in het Prado museum hangen in Madrid.  Het kan ook zomaar zijn dat  Hiëronymus ze gewoon verpatst heeft aan de Spanjolen.  Voor zover ik weet heeft Nederland nooit een aanvraag gedaan om deze potentiële roofkunst terug te krijgen. In ieder geval eren de Spanjaarden Hiëronymus als hun ' El Bosque' . 

In het bos tussen Vught en Sint Michielsgestel

Het Dommel wandelpad gaat dan richting Vught door de bossen; dus veel schaduw; verder naar St. Michielsgestel waar het Doveninstituut al meer dan 150 jaar een markant punt is. Cor heeft er eens gesolliciteerd voor de functie chef medische dienst; edoch werd uiteindelijk afgewezen omdat hij niet katholiek genoeg was. Nadat Gerard en ik een smakelijke nieuwe haring verorberd hadden in het stadje verder door de bossen naar het prachtige kasteel Nieuw Herlaer dat dateert uit 1381 maar dat in de Franse tijd (na Napoleon) werd uitgebouwd tot klooster en gesticht. Conference centre nu..... zoals zoveel kastelen en burchten die niet meer te onderhouden zijn vanwege de poen die ze kosten.

Kijk naar de wieken met de kleuren van de NL vlag

We passeerden ook een wonderschone korenmolen ' De Genenberg' die nu bewoond wordt en er fraai bijstaat (sinds 2024 te koop/zal wel een paar knaken moeten kosten). Een prachtig wandelpad langs de Dommel gaat via het dorp Olland tot aan Boxtel waar we de eerste kanovaarders zagen. De Dommel kan bevaren worden met kano's en bootjes vanaf Pelt tot Den Bosch en geeft het ultieme gevoel van vrijheid: met de kano, tent en rugzak met proviand / wie doet je wat? Ten zuiden van Boxtel ligt de wijk 'de Lange Loop': paradijselijk gebied direct aan de rivier met rust, rust, rust. Allemaal vrijstaande huizen aan het water. Dat dat nog bestaat in Nederland!  Dan zijn we in het gehucht Kasteren waar we het 'Duits lijntje' kruisen. Meer dan 100 jaar geleden kwam hier dagelijks de trein van Vlissingen naar Berlijn voorbij; onvoorstelbaar toch?  Maar waar! Waarom Vlissingen....? Omdat daar de ferry uit Dover aankwam.

 
Fraaie traditionele Brabantse langgevel boerderij in Kasteren

Bij Kasteren staat ook nog de Antoniuskapel met een echt relikwi van deze heiligman (alhoewel niet duidelijk wordt van welk lichaamsdeel).  Al schrijvende merk ik goed dat er veel historie in Brabant zit.  Op z'n Cruijffiaans: ' je ziet het pas als je ernaar kijkt' . Cor, Gerard en ik zijn nu op weg naar St-Oedenrode (in de volksmond 'Rooi' genoemd) en worden vergezeld door dames van het wandelgroepje 'Altijd Dorst' , te weten Maria, Anja en Odi in volgorde van senioriteit. All the way naar Son en Breugel.  

De respectabele dames van wandelgroep ' Altijd Dorst' 


Dit wandelweekend toch 33 kms in de benen.

Son en Breugel naar Valkenswaard  20 en 21 september (2025) / via de agglomeratie Eindhoven.

Wilde hopbellen bij Nuenen / zonder hop geen bier!

Een laat zomerweekend met goed weer; zelfs korte broeken weer.
Knotwilgen in het groen bij Nederwetten

Praktisch alles nog groen en wat erg opvalt is dat de geïndustrialiseerde regio Eindhoven met Philips, DAF, ASML, VDL, Brainport en een uitdijende bevolking van meer dan 250,000 inwoners in 2025 toch veel recreatie plekken heeft weten te behouden. Onder meer de Genneper Parken, de visvijvers langs de Dommel tot aan Waalre, de Klotputten, het gebied rond Nuenen en Opwetten met de recent gecreëerde Vincent van Gogh route, die langzaam overgaat in Eindhoven; en het mooie fietsdeel bij de Technische Universiteit. Jaaaa, en nu is er de Wielewaal; landgoed van de Philips dynastie, aangekocht door de gemeente en recentelijk geopend voor het publiek. Gaan we zien chers amis. Wandelend door het Villapark en Den Elzent waan je je niet in de 5e grootste stad van NL. De Dommel stroomt hier door hartje Eindhoven bij het uitgaanscentrum Stratumseind, de Effenaar, langs het Van Abbe museum en de 'getolereerde soft drug smoking zones' op de weiden aan de Dommel.
Alle eendjes zwemmen in het water van de Dommel in de villawijk Den Elzent

Tja we zagen nog wat van die gebouwen waar meer dan 125 jaar geleden de textielindustrie met illustere namen als 'Schellens', 'van den Briel en Verster' en 'Baekers en Raymakers' hun katoen en linnen producten konden fabriceren met lage lonen en voldoende arbeidskrachten komende van het verpauperde Brabantse platteland. Enfin, zo ging dat in Europa....van de regio Eindhoven tot aan het Ruhrgebied in Duitsland, en de Borinage in Belgie: goedkope arbeid plenty aanwezig zonder sociale back up van de regeringen. Wat hebben we het nu toch goed hier; zelfs zij die niet in het zweet hunner aanschijns willen werken, komen er toch wel in NL. 

Even een afslag naar Dufaystraat 6 in de wijk 'Bennekel'. Het geboortehuis van Frans van Hout die er dit keer niet bij is maar wel zo'n 50 jaar geleden. Foto getrokken en de volgende dag verder. We wandelen van Eindhoven naar Waalre; dan verder naar de Volmolen voor een bakkie leut. En vervolgens naar Dommelen. Voor en achter de Volmolen ligt een uitgestrekt gebied met weilanden, broekbossen, een lang knuppelpad en we komen ook nog de Keersop beek tegen. In de winter gegarandeerd natte en koude voeten! Prachtige bloemen en planten nu hier langs de Dommel; tot op kniehoogte. Uiteindelijk dan aankomend in Dommelen bij de brug ....zo'n beetje het eind van deze 'einmalige' tocht. Vanaf deze brug naar 'Geenhoven', woonstede van Cor en Anja, is het nog maar een half uur gaans. Het zit er weer op. 

Veel gepraat over koetjes en kalfjes, over de politiek in NL en B, over Europa, de oorlog tussen Rusland en de Ukraine, de Joden en de Palestijnen, over de Koreas en China/Taiwan. En ondertussen veel boterhammen met worst en kaas gegeten en rustig gewandeld. We hebben uiteraard op onze senior leeftijd allemaal wat klachten en slikken pillen. Desalniettemin denk ik en hoop verwachtingsvol dat we nog zo' n vijf jaar vooruit kunnen plannen en lopen. Dit weekend ook weer 30 kms gemarcheerd. De vriendschap staat als een huis.  What's next?

1977 Dufaystraat 6, de Bennekel: Frans,  Ton,  Cor 




2025 Dufaystraat 6, de Bennekel:  Gerard,  Ton,  Cor





Sunday, July 27, 2025

MUSIC / Personal TOP  2000-2100 by Ton van Zutphen; July 2025. 


FRIENDS, this is a list of songs from 'Musicians Paradise' as a follow-up to my personal Top 2000 from March 2022  / This one (an extension) is made up of songs:

1. that I had kind of forgotten, and recently remembered

2. that I discovered in the past three years

3. that made an impact on me during a special event 

4. that come from the personal Top 2000 of my friend Cor van den Hurk

5. that I selected because the accordion instrument features clearly, or in the background

6. that includes songs of my favourite singers/songwriters, and bands

7. that can be considered 'classics' in a specific genre


Some notes to elaborate on the selected songs you will find below:


This list should not be read as a priority list. I tried to mix the selected songs in a way I believe will put the listener at ease with a lot of variety and flavours. 

In my earlier published personal Top 2000 I included practically always the original versions of songs. This 100-songs list includes covers of originals that I rate highly. An outstanding example of such is the song 'Baby Face' by the Kinks @ # 2023. 

Clearly, amongst my favourite bands and singers remain Calexico, Ry Cooder, Vince Gill, Van Morrison, the Grateful Dead, the Kinks, Joan Baez, and Cliff Richard & the Shadows a.o. The songs by them listed below do not appear in my original personal Top 2000. 

Then I am a great fan of Country and Western music and some evergreens appear below, like the song 'Just someone I used to know' by Dolly Parton and Porter Wagoner. 

Most live performances can be seen and enjoyed on YouTube; songs I recommend to see include 'All you ever do' by the Mavericks @ # 2010, and 'Sweet Jane' by Lou Reed @ # 2085. 

Also to be noted is a couple of Dutch/Flemish songs @ # 2048-2052. 

My list includes many 'protest songs' such as 'Kiss my ass' by Country Joe McDonald, who performed with huge success at the famous Woodstock festival in 1969.

I would like to mention a few personal favourites I often listen to: Bobby Woods with 'Desolation row' @ # 2011; Bryn Terfel with 'Sloop John B' @ # 2014; the Kinks with 'Strangers' @ # 2038 and the original version of 'It's all over now' @ # 2065, performed by the Valentinos with the famous brothers Womack. 

The list below offers you some 7 hours of listening, covering a variety of music styles, singers, and bands. There is enough Rock in it; and Roll....with superb melodies when cruising on the blacktop, or listening @ home in your armchair. Enjoy!   

 



2001     /  Ry Cooder  / My girl Josephine /  Live (2005)

2002     /  Madonna  /  Don't cry for me Argentina  (1996)

2003     /  Billy Joel  /  Honesty  (1978) 

2004     /  Julee Cruise  / Falling (1989)

2005     /  Dolly Parton & Porter Wagoner / Just someone I used to know (1969)


2006     /  Vince Gill & the Players  /   Liza Jane / Live  (1991)

2007     /  Calexico & Mario Luz de Luna / El Picador / Live (2008)

2008     /  Van Morrison & Pee Wee Ellis  /  Tupelo honey  / Live (1980)

2009     /  Pink Floyd  /  Fearless  (1971)

2010     /  The Mavericks /  All you ever do / Live in Calgary (2022)


2011     /  Bobby Woods  /  Desolation row (2018)

2012     /  Dee Dee Bridgewater / Hounddog (2017)

2013     /  John Trudell  /  Doesn't hurt anymore (2001)

2014     /  Bryn Terfel  /  Sloop John B.  (2024)

2015     /  Country Joe McDonald  /  Kiss my ass  (1971)


2016     /  Grateful Dead  /  Scarlet begonias (1977) / Live

2017     /  Tracy Pendarvis /   A thousand guitars  (1959)

2018     /  Stranglers / All day and all of the night (2008)

2019     /  Marilyn Monroe  /  River of no return (1954)

2020     /  John Lennon  /  Oh my love (1971) 


2021     /  Bruce Springsteen / Human touch (1992)

2022     /  JD Mc Pherson / North Side Gal (2011)

2023     /  Little Richard  /  Baby face (1958) 

2023     /  Kinks  /  Baby face (1972) / Live vaudeville version    

2024     /  Eric Burdon & the Animals / Sky Pilot (1968)

2025     /  Sofia Pettersson / Hallelujah (2002)


2026     /  Jim James & Calexico  /  Goin' to Acapulco (2007)

2027     /  George Thorogood & the Destroyers / I'll change my style (1977)

2028     /  Doug Sahm / Poison love (1973)

2029     /  Sue Thompson  /  Sad movies  (1961)

2030     /  Steve Earle / Rivers of Babylon (1995)


2031     /  Arthur Alexander / You better move on (1960)

2032     /  Cliff Richard & the Shadows / Thinking of your love (1960)

2033     /  Chris Rice  / Go light your candle (1995) 

2034     /  Red Patterson & the Piedmont Log Rollers  / Banks of the Ohio (1927)

2034     /  Joan Baez & the Grateful Dead / Banks of the Ohio (1981) / Live in Oakland  

2035     /  Alvin Lee / The bluest blues (1993)


2036     /  Vince Gill & Patty Loveless / Go rest high on that mountain / Live (2013)

2037     /  Corries   / The Wild Mountain Thyme  (Scottish traditional) / (1969)

2037     /  Byrds     / The Wild Mountain Thyme (1966)

2037     /  Joan Baez / The Wild Mountain Thyme  (1975)

2038     /  Kinks  /   Strangers (1970)

2039     /  Van Morrison / Madame George (1968)

2040     /  Beatles   /  Because the world is round (1969)


2041     /  Geier Sturzflug  /  Brutosozialprodukt (1983)

2042     /  Adele  / Hello (2019) 

2043     /  Chieftains  /  My Bonnie (Irish traditional) / (1998)

2044     /  Billy Bacon & the Forbidden Pigs  / Valleys and Peaks  (2004)

2045     /  Ry Cooder  /  Taxes on the farmer feeds us all  (1972)


2046     /  Arrow  /  Hot hot hot (1982)

2047     /  Billy Ray Cirus / Achy breaky heart (1992)

2048     /  Dommelvolk   /  Woensel kermis  (1979)

2049     /  Bram Vermeulen & de Toekomst / Verveling (1981)

2050     /  Noordkaap / Ik hou van U (1995)


2051     /  Boudewijn de Groot  /  Een meisje van zestien (1966)

2052     /  Will Tura  /  Heimwee naar huis  (1966)

2053     /  Outlaws / Green grass & High tides (1975)

2054     /  Bonnie Raitt / You (1994)

2055     /  Magic Slim & the Teardrops / I'm a bluesman (2002)


2056     /  Kinks  /  I'm not like everybody else (1966)

2057     /  Grateful Dead  /  Morning dew (1967)

2058     /  Little Feat / Dixy Chicken & Tripe fase boogie / Live (1972)

2059     /  Guillermo Portabales / Yo te canto Puerto Rico (1967)

2060     /  THEM / My lonely sad eyes (1966)


2061     /  Chilliwack / Ballad (1972)

2062     /  Mink de Ville / Just to walk that little girl home (1980)

2063     /  Little Village / Do you want my job (1992)

2063     /  Ry Cooder & David Lindley / Do you want my job / Live in Vienna (1995)

2064     /  Saints / I'm stranded (1977)

2065     /  Valentinos  /  It's all over now  (1964)


2066     /  Christophe / Aline (1965)

2067     /  Franco & TP OK Jazz / Siluwangi Wapi Accordeon (1972)

2068     /  Pink Floyd / Shine on you crazy diamond (1975)

2069     /  Led Zeppelin / Bron-Y-aur-Stomp (1970)

2070     /  Lynyrd Skynyrd / Free bird (1974)


2071     /  Van Morrison / Stop drinking (2003)

2072     /  Cliff Richard & the Shadows /  Gee whizz, it's you (1960)

2073     /  Sandy Coast / Subjects of my thoughts (1968)

2074     /  Kinks  /  Living on a thin line (1984)

2075     /  Grateful Dead / Bertha / Live in Oakland (1987)



2076     /  John Lennon   /   Working class hero (1970)

2077     /  Buddy Holly  /  Brown eyed handsome man (1963)

2078     /  Rolling Stones  /  Off the hook  (1965)

2079     /  Jorge Fernando  /  Chuva (1991)

2080     /  Mariachi Luz de Luna & Calexico / El Cascabel / Live (2008)


2081     /  Captain Beefheart  /  This is the day (1974)

2082     /  Staccatos  /  Cry to me (1968) 

2083     /  Sam Cooke  /  Change is gonna come  (1964)

2084     /  Seatsniffers / Assembley line (1997)

2085     /  Lou Reed  /  Sweet Jane  / Live (2012)


2086     /  Ry Cooder /  The way we make a broken heart (1980)

2087     /  Slim Willett / Don't let the stars get in your eyes (1952) 

2088     /  Emmylou Harris & Don Williams /  If I needed you (1981)

2089     /  New Riders of the Purple Sage / You should have seen me running (1973) 

2090     /  Bob Weir  / Looks like rain  (1972)


2091     /  Electric Light Orchestra / Mr. Blue Sky (1977)

2092     /  Bobby Bare  /  Detroit City  (1963)

2093     /  Jimmy Reed  / Honest I do (1957)

2094     /  Roy Orbison  / Running scared (extended version / (1988) 

2095     /  Band  /  Rockin' chair (1969)


2096     /  Trisha Yearwood / How do I live  (1997)

2097     /  Santana  / Put your lights on   (1999)

2098     /  Planet Rockers   /  Spin my wheels (1997)

2099     /  Turtles  /  Happy together (1967)

2100     /  Various Artists / Not fade away / Austin City Limits / Live  (2014)


And the final BONUS-song to state that we are all on a pilgrim's route;

a musical one and/or a wordly, or even a religious one. Pilgrims we are on this earth!


Therefore, please listen to this bonus-song by The Byrds / I am a pilgrim (1962) 


Antonius Franciscus van Zutphen

Leende, the Netherlands, 2nd July 2025


tonvanzutphen@gmail.com


In due course this list with short notes will appear on my blog:   www.nedineurope.blogspot.com

As always, comments are welcome!


Wednesday, June 18, 2025

Walking the Camino in 2025: From CADIZ in Southern Spain to SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA in the NorthWest by Ton van Zutphen / April-May-June 2025

Walking the CAMINO in 2025; from Cadiz in Southern Spain to Santiago de Compostela in the NorthWest; happiness, sweet nature, trials and tribulations by Ton van Zutphen. 

Via Augusta, Via de la Plata, Camino de Sanabres from April 23 to June 4, arriving in Santiago de Compostela early morning before 10am / arrival # 81. 

 Is there a difference between a 'Camino' and a 'Via'? Not easy to say; then my opinion is that the word 'Camino' specifically refers to a well established pilgrim's route ending in Santiago de Compostela. The various 'Vias', like the Via Augusta from Cadiz to Seville refer often to old Roman roads that later remained well used connections between major cities. There are many websites/apps to assist the 'Camino' or 'Via' walker. I used the app 'Buen Camino': it informs a pilgrim about more than 30 routes and the number is still growing! Sofar I walked (parts of) the Via Piemont (France), the Camino Frances, the Camino Primitivo, the Via Augusta, the Via de la Plata, the Camino Mozarabe, and the Camino Sanabres. 
Fresh after breakfast in Libreja / day 4


All in all I cruised some 2.500 km on various routes leading to Santiago de Compostela and I can now say from experience that any debutant should strongly consider the time of the year during which to pilger. Obviously the weather can be freaky, for example the heat around Seville can start as early as May, or daily rainshowers in Galicia and Asturias can unexpectedly pour down on you in May also; then become regular as of end October. Nevertheless it is safe to say that the best period is between early May / end October. I encountered a lot of 'water spots' from Cadiz to Seville, mainly because the winter rains were still flooding tunnels and low lying areas. 

TRIALS.

A couple of times I had to take off my boots and wade through a hundred metres of filthy mud. Close to the village of Nueva Jarilla on the Via Augusta I got stuck but found a hole in the fence to avoid the water and mud and I crawled in and out of the premises of a gasoline station. This kind of acrobacy occurred a few times and nearly became fatal just outside of Oliva de Plasencia, North of Caceres, when I slipped on one of the blocks that had been put in a stream to allow for safe! passage. This rock had shifted and was wet; and then it happened: before I realized it I had crashed between two blocks of solid rock with my backpack on. I just could barely hold on with the lower side of my pack already in the water. 'Good heavens, madre mia',  I thought, I am not going to fall into the stream; and indeed the hand from Davide, my companero, grabbed me by the shoulder and stabilised my position. I moved slowly up the rock with both hands, still holding my walking pole. Rescued! 

One of the streams to cross close to Aldeanuevo del Camino; Caetano balancing in the water and Davide telling him what to do or what not to do in Italian

That was a close call Anton, and short of a small disaster....Then I inspected the profile of my boots, and indeed much of it had disappeared. No wonder! So the next Decathlon shop in Salamanca new boots for the boy! 
Later on, I reflected on this mishap: what could have happened if I had been alone? Instinctively at the following river crossings and hopping over the stones I felt unsure and insecure. I debated every time with myself  'boots off and wade through the water? or follow the others and step on the stones'? Once I had bought a new pair of boots, this feeling of insecurity disappeared again. Lesson is clear: make certain the soles under your boots have a good profile/grip. I now only buy boots with a vibram sole! 

Definitely, walking alongside a companero on the Via Augusta and Via de la Plata is to be recommended because there remain difficult spots to cross (water, suspicious looking bulls; the black ones radiate more fear into me than the brown ones...why?) but primarily because the distances between villages/farms can be far>15 kms, and as an indication: between Cadiz and Seville (some 200 kms in 8 days) I only met 2 other pilgrims! Really, walking some of the routes can be a lonesome affair. Also from Seville to Granja de Moreruela where the route splits into the Camino Sanabres turning West to Ourense, and the Via de la Plata continuing North to Astorga: perhaps in total 30 pilgrims on the road on a daily basis. I personally like to walk alone for some time and then look out for someone to talk and walk with. 

This huge sheep dog followed me for miles from Bandeira; then I had a sausage in my backpack!


TRIBULATIONS.

This was my third Camino and only now, while writing this blog, do I recognise that what I learned I must put into practice the next time. A good point is that I am not influenced so much by the anxiety that many fellow pilgrims have about not to find a place to sleep. Interestingly, each Camino has towns and villages with limited places to sleep. And more and more cyclists occupy the hostels. For a cyclist it is easy to ride to the next village. A walker is a slow moving species!  Then there are these organised tours that pre-book hostels weeks in advance and limit the places for the walkers. But, I decided that when I am on my own I don't care. I do not like this anxiery resulting in stress; clearly a pilgrim should be stress-free as much as possible.  Actually it is a mindset. On the Camino Frances walkers leave very early to be certain they have a place to sleep in the hostel of their choice 20 or 30 kms further. No, that is not me. At any rate, for emergencies I carry a tiny 2nd sleeping cover, made of aluminium foil, to protect me against the cold at night outside. 
When I am with my wife Biya, this is different. She likes to pre-book one day ahead. Fair enough.  

GETTING SICK

OK, I am nearly 74 but still I walked an average of 25kms a day, without a day-off. And, for the first time I was hit by the 'Man with the Hammer'. It happened on day 36 from Calzadilla de Tera to Mombuey on the Camino Sanabres. Actually, that day proved to be one of the most pretty trail days: crossing a dam, walking alongside a lake, resting at the Rehoboth albergue in the hamlet of Villar de Farfon, then moving through the woods and prairies for some 5 kms. But, as the day got warmer the last 8 of this 26kms day I had to walk on a gravel road in the hot sun without any shade at all. Under the golden ball it must have been close to 40 degrees.I drank a lot, ate some fruit and rested. Nevertheless when I finally arrived in Mombuey around 2pm I had had enough. I checked into the catholic albergue and found a good bed. Then I decided to go for 'comida de dia'.
Already the macaroni with tuna did not go down well. Then I did not even finish my draught beer...I settled the bill, returned to the albergue and hit the sack. My stomach started to play up / bathroom visits / I could not even sleep / I simply felt miserable for hours..and it went on through the night with some fever and diarrhea. I took aspirin and tyranol but only after 16 hours I started to feel a little better. I had time to think and yes my analysis was that for my age I had overdone it. Especially the heat and the distances may have been the culprit and finally my body had told me 'Anton this is it; take a rest or it will get worse'! 
Fortunately I talked to my fellow pilgrims in the albergue and both of them also had experienced a terrible day. One of them, English and heavily burnt by the sun had a fever as well and decided to walk only 17kms the next day. The other one, a stocky German in his sixties told me he would call a taxi and drive to Puebla de Sanabria, some 30 kms down the road. I really felt weakened and I must have lost at least 1 kg overnight. 
'Anton boy', I said to myself , 'you are going to skip some 150kms and take a bus to Ourense town and continue from there!' Overnight I had consulted with my wife Biya and children and we all agreed to a reset of this Camino.  I could have tried to convince myself not being 'a sissie'; convince myself to rest in the albergue for a day or 2 and see how I felt. Actually, with hindsight I also lost some of the drive, I felt really tired and my energy level had greatly reduced. Good that nobody I asked was suggesting to me 'to be a real pilgrim, and move on against the odds'; I now feel I definitely made the right decision. And equally important: there won't be  a next time with this kind of trouble because I will consider my limitations. 
One of the pilgrims I met was Jesus from Leon. He was 78 and had walked more than 10 Caminos. Leon is a city that 'sits' on the Camino Frances. He explained very simply:   'Anton, the secret of this game is easy: know and accept your physical limitations, remain careful and alert, and try to walk not more than 20kms a day'. 

GETTING BETTER

The next day at noon I waited for a scheduled 'Monbus' that did not show up. I hitchhiked to the next village of Asturianos where I got stuck again....with so few cars passing through and in the sun I simply had to wait another 2 hours before a local bus took me to Puebla de Sanabria. I had hoped to find a bus there but absolutely nothing/nada! I decided to walk to the highway, some 4 kms in the sizzling sun, not interested to admire this exceptionally beautiful town. Then I met my angel of the day: a car stopped and a pleasant voice said 'A donde vas?'; I answered 'Ourense por favor' and that was it. The driver from Madrid, a nice man called Ovideo, took me there; straight into the old section of this beautiful town and I had no trouble to find a hotel quickly and let my stomach rest with a plate of 'sopa cocido'/ clear vegetables soup in a light broth. I felt saved for the day; tomorrow we shall see; I slept for 12 hours straight on! 
I had learned my lesson and was going to apply it! 'Don't play the idiot anymore Anton'. So I got up late (around 9am) and walked out of town after having a healthy breakfast with the usual 'tostada con tomate y azeite'. And 'cafe con leche'. I was heading to the village of Tamallancos where I had booked a room in hotel Viastellae. It was only 13kms but man, did I suffer: the first 5 kms out of town were a steep curving uphill challenge and pretty heavy. I had to visit the bushes a couple of times again as my stomach did not hold up. When I arrived around one o'clock I checked in and needed a good rest. 
Anyway, my body was busy recuperating so I kept telling myself to slow down and do it 'paso a paso'. Step by step until Santiago de Compostela. And that is what I did. Indeed the last 107 kms took me five and half days! Alcohol consumption reduced to 'dewdrops' and lots of rest and sleep. Only 11kms before arriving in Santiago de Compostela in the albergue Reina Lupa (in the hamlet of Deseiro) did I feel 100% again. Then, as during the other Caminos I had walked on, quite a few fellow pilgrims had similar problems and worse. I guess that the number of walkers having to quit, or stop for a few days to attend to their medical needs gets close to 10%. 

Leaving Ourense with an upset stomach but with 'wonderwater  Aquarius' to heal


CAMINO Companeros.

Fortunately I met three companeros with whom I walked: Remy (3 days), Davide (24 days) and Angela (2 days). Saying hullo and chatting with farmers, and interacting in the evenings in the hostals and restaurants gives me enough social contact to share my stories.

DAVIDE MAMMATO
My Italian companero for 24 days was Davide from Bergamo, 29 years young and I saw him walking out of Seville early morning before sunrise. I called 'Hola peregrino!' He stopped and we simply started walking together while chatting. It was his first day ever and he had no idea what to expect. He had planned to walk until the village of Guillena 17kms further but we got there well before noon already. I said to him that I was going to continue and although his feet were already a bit sore he decided to remain with me. We arrived after a very hot afternoon through a nature reserve in Castilblanco de los Arroyos, alltogether a 38kms distance from Seville. When he took of his Hoka running shoes I saw it: all blue and reddish and full of upcoming blisters. The receptionist in the hotel, one of the many MariaCarmen's on the trail, said 'completo' but I was not going to have any of that stuff. I said in my best Spanish that my son Davide and I were not going anywhere anymore, while pointing at Davide's swollen feet, and that we were finished for the day. And indeed a quick phone call to the boss resulted in 2 nice rooms; one for Davide and one for me. Unfortunately we had to eat the worst 'Napoli' pizza in our lives. Davide kept telling me about the superb quality of the pizzas in Bergamo and felt really embarassed. Haha, but we could rest! 
The following day was a poncho day....heavy rain (cats and dogs) from morning to late afternoon. Anyway we trucked on and  whilst his blister problem remained / got worse actually, Davide was able to treat himself pretty well. The ladies in the various farmacias became his best friends! Only after some 3 weeks his feet and legs had hardened enough to keep going without pain. I admired him for his perseverance. And his office legs had become strong walking legs. Then Davide, poor soul, had a broken heart. His beloved lady of 7 years had suddenly left him...which was the reason he walked the Camino. We talked a lot about it and although he was not bitter he remained sooo attached to his Silvia. Now, while writing this blog I know he has come to realise and accept that Silvia and he had met at the wrong time in their lives. She was too young for him; her first love at 17. Only in exceptional cases such a 'high school love' continues into a marriage. Davide turned out to be one of the good guys; attentive, honest and helpful. With many of the characteristics of the young generation such as a focus on (quick) money; his smartphone on the hip, always ready to consult; spending his money easily. Nevertheless I hope he accepted in the end some of my value driven advise. 
Davide and me close to Montamarta resting on the pilgrim's bench



Saying goodbye early morning to my dear companero in Granja de Moreruela

One of the things Davide did not like was sleeping in an albergue and in a dormitory. In fact before the Camino, he had never done it. I told him 'Davide, at some stage there is no alternative; so be prepared and...always take the bunk-bed below, close to a window and try to find out who the snorers (roncadores) are going to be, so you try and stay far away from them'. 
Then in the village of Canaveral we ended up in the only hostel which had two dormitories. Haha, unfortunately late afternoon a heavily built Frenchman walks in and occupied the bed above Davide; the whole night this 'Froggy' snored. Davide could not sleep, not even with his earphones on! I had advised him before 'put toilet paper in your ears; that works'! Next day, my boy was not in a good mood! A few days later we ended up in a one-street village called Fuenterroble de Salvatierra; in the catholic albergue donativo. Exactly the kind of location Davide would want to avoid at all costs (although it is a donativo!/pun). This time he found a good bed but he already had spotted 2 notorious Spanish snorers and the bulky Frenchman (who by the way had been placed in another dormitory). After dinner the Padre Rodriguez asked all pilgrims to participate in a prayer session and he started by singing 'Laudate omnes gentes, laudate dominum'; I softly sang with him and I guess he appreciated it. Then he started to preach and mentioned that on the Camino we should all develop our love for each other and faith (into God). A deeper love will bring more faith and lead to forgiveness of sins. Actually I was proud I could follow his sermon so at the end I asked in my best Spanish 'Padre, how can we forgive the snorers that prevent us from sleeping tonight'? I saw the 2 Spanish guys and the Frenchman immediately raising their eyebrows and looking at me in an accusing manner. Then Father Rodriguez warmly responded 'Hay no problema pero hay una habitacion separada por los roncadores'! He actually had a special dormitory for the snorers. God bless his soul! And in a jiffy, the 2 Spanish snorers had left our dormitory. Case closed and everyone happy! 

Hotel VII Carreras in San Pedro de Rozados; evening meal with fr. left to right Kosi fr. Tokyo, Caetano fr. Bologna, Francois fr. Antwerp, Anton, Davide fr. Bergamo; then 3 snorers without a name: one French and two Spanish




Evening meal in El Cubo del Vino / Albergue Torre de Sabre; from left to right Davide fr. Bergamo, Jesus fr. Leon, Philippe fr. Brussels, Anton, Daniele fr. Roma and Silvia fr. Genova / the latter 2 were cyclists


Davide was very helpful and skillful booking rooms although he only could speak a few words Spanish. I loved it when he booked a room while walking on the trail. Just like that! I always said yes to whatever he booked...knowing that 1 or 2 out of 10 bookings would be a bad choice / not his fault. Haha, I had already told him to be careful because the names of some places also exist in Latin America. So he was so happy and proud he found a really cheap hotel with large rooms in Merida...to which I agreed, only to find out the next day he had booked the hotel in Merida, Mexico! And he never got his money back. And he refused to split the expenditure with me. The only thing he accepted was that I paid him a nice dinner a week or so later.

My preferred breakfast jamon iberico, tostada y tomate


Coffee with Hierba on the rocks


















REMY GRASS
Then I walked 3 days with Remy from Strassbourg, France. Remy a retired elementary school teacher proved good company and 8 years younger than me. A good man, practising Catholic, clever too, fast walker and also doing Cadiz to Santiago. Actually his daily average was more than 30kms so we split up in Las Cabezas de San Juan. The day before though, we finally arrived in Utrera during the infamous nationwide electro blackout in Spain. Suddenly we had no internet and Remy had not noted the address of the hotel Hidalgo. I was very tired after walking fast behind him for a total of 39kms; thus easily to be irritated. I simply could not believe it, he could not remember it...so we asked and wandered around ending up at the wrong Hidalgo hotel. There were 2 hotels with the same name in Utrera, a small town like that! Can you believe it? Murphy's law: all went wrong that day. Anyway I apologised for my impatience to Remy and fortunately we found the second Hidalgo hotel and a sleazy bar around the corner where they still had cold beer and served us a big chicken bocadillo. In the end all was fine.
With Remy Grass from Strassbourg, France in 'snails town' Libreja 
 

ANGELA PAUL-BOURDIN
Then at the end, closer to Santiago I met a lady called Angela from Alencon in France whom I thought to be my age. We made a bet for the coffee bill and she proved to be 6 months older than me. I lost! A charming and humble person. No nonsense too....not typically French. Quiet also. She had walked all the way from Sevilla but had paced herself better than I had done. Nevertheless she had to stop for a few days because of a heavy cold or bronchitis. It was nice to kind of walk slowly especially going up the hills. She turned out to be an artist / painter as well. So I bought a painting from her of a Spanish scene as a souvenir. She never booked ahead so when we arrived in Puenta Ulla at the only hotel where they still had 1 room available I had kind of secured it already for myself. Then the manager said 'Well there are 2 beds in this room and you peregrinos never mind sharing rooms'. 'Ah not this time' I responded. 'This is a lady I met on the road I cannot share a room with her alone'. Then the manager looked me over and said 'Well I do have a suite; if you have money I can give it to you'. And without asking further I said 'Yes'. It was only 50 euros, and Angela had her own room with bathroom and privacy for only 25 euros. Gracias a Dios!

Angela Paul-Bourdin from Alencon,  Northern France



Out of the approximately 1225 kms from Cadiz, I skipped I think 150 kms. So in the end I walked in my boots some 1075 kms. And my credencial/certificate says 1172 kms. Was it beautiful.....exciting.....difficult.....long....a learning experience....? Yes, all of that. It was full spring and different shades of green all over. Plus a great variety of plants blossoming and colourful wild flowers.
Bougainvillea tree in Las Cabezas de San Juan


Cows and 'toros' grazing on the pastures of large fincas and especially Andalucia and Extremadura regions are all dotted with olive trees/plantations and the typical grey oak trees. 
Grey oaks everywhere....


But then as expected, the trail turns also into large stretches of tarred roads/blacktop/asphalt. In the heat of the day not pleasant at all. 


Walking the Camino remains an exciting event simply because every day is different and the same: Walk, Rest, Eat, Sleep and Repeat. It sounds monotonous but every day you talk with new people, every night you sleep somewhere else, every restaurant is different; and true to the bone everybody you meet recognises you as a pilgrim so people are nice! No thefts on the trail either. 
Approaching Zamora just after midday ; simmering heat with hot sandy and hot gravel roads


I had my checking mantra ready after every stop and before every start: 1. documents=passport, 2. money-cards clip, 3. smartphone, 4. walking pole. OK?!, then 'Vamonos'/ Let's go! This trail from Cadiz to Santiago de Compostela is not difficult; then it is a long hike. The distances between villages can be far; quite often more than 10kms and a few close to 20kms; and in some villages you only see cats and hear barking dogs: rural Spain is losing its population. Walking this long trail from Cadiz via Seville to Salamanca is likely to be torture in summer. 
Now after 3 Caminos I learned what everybody is supposed to know from day 1: that you have to walk your own Camino; therefore pace yourself! Next time with my wife we shall walk the Portuguese one and it will be a slow one, a good one again. 

This was the Route: 
22 April / Tuesday / plane from Eindhoven to Seville / dormitory Hostel San Isidro / cheap and noisy / sleeping bag
23 April / train Seville to Cadiz / START Camino Augusta at Iglesia de Santiago Apostol / Hotel Andaluza in San Fernando; very good / 18kms 
24 April / San Fernando to Puerto Real / Hotel Las Canteras; very good / 18kms 
25 April / Puerto Real to Nueva Jarilla / slept in garage of Family Veronica Lopez Saborido / excellent / 44kms. World Championships motorracing in Jerez de la Frontera; all hotels fully booked for 3 to 4 days / sleeping bag 
26 April / Nueva Jarilla to El Cuervo / Hotel 'ViaSevilla-Cadiz'; the owner said he was fully booked but offered me a room under construction for free / 11kms 
27 April / Sunday / El Cuervo to Las Cabezas de San Juan / Apartment CECALMA / excellent / 30kms 28 April / Las Cabezas de San Juan to Utrera / Pension Hidalgo 1 / good enough / 39kms 
29 April / Utrera to Alcala de Guadaira / La Casa del Cura / spacious and beautiful / 18kms 
30 April / Alcala de Guadaira to Seville / Hotel Ribera 4 stars / perfect and pricey / 23kms 
1 May / Seville to Castilblanco de los Arroyos / Hotel Castillo Blanco / good / 38kms 
2 May / Castilblanco de los Arroyos to Almaden de la Plata / Hotel Casa Concha / good enough/ 29kms 3 May / Almaden de la Plata to El Real de la Jara / Private Pension Carmen Bayon / good / 14kms 
4 May / Sunday / El Real de la Jara to Monesterio / Hostal El Pilar / excellent / 22kms 
5 May / Monesterio to Calzadilla de los Barros / Pension Los Rodriguez / good / 27kms 
6 May / Calzadilla de los Barros to Zafra / Hotel Victoria / very good / 20kms 
7 May / Zafra to Almendralejo / Hotel Los Angeles / a general rip off, to avoid / 38kms 
8 May / Almendralejo to Merida / Hotel La Flor de Andaluz / good enough / 30kms 
9 May / Merida to Aljucen / Casa Rural La Plata / super place / 17kms 
10 May / Aljucen to Alcuescar / Albergue de Peregrinos donativo / good / 19kms / sleeping bag 
11 May / Sunday / Alcuescar to Valdesalor / Hostal Posadade de la Plata / good / 28kms 
12 May / Valdesalor to Casar de Caceres / private apartment / spacious and good / 24kms 
13 May / Casar de Caceres to Canaveral / Hostel Canaveral dormitory / ok but snorers / 34kms / sleeping bag 
14 May / Canaveral to Galisteo / La Pension del Parador / beautiful and good / 27kms 
15 May / Galisteo to Oliva de Plasencia / Hostal Via Caparra / good and beautiful / 31kms 
16 May / Oliva de Plasencia to Aldenueva del Camino / Hotel posada Tres Mentiras / excellent / 27kms 17 May / Aldenueva del Camino to La Calzada de Bejar / Casa Calzada Romano / perfect place and cheap / 22kms 
18 May / Sunday / La Calzada de Bejar to Fuenterroble de Salvatierra / Albergue Parroquial donativo dormitory / good enough / 20kms / sleeping bag 
19 May / Fuenterroble de Salvatierra to San Pedro de Rozados / Hostal VII Carreras / good / 28kms 
20 May / San Pedro de Rozados to Salamanca / Hotel GranVia / good / 23kms 

The impressive original main entrance to the Cathedral in Salamanca


21 May / Salamanca to Calzada de Valdunciel / La Casa del Molinero / dubious bedding quality; not clean enough / 18kms / sleeping bag 
22 May / Calzada de Valdunciel to El Cubo del Vino / Albergue Torre de Sabre / good / 20kms 
23 May / El Cubo del Vino to Zamora / Hosteria Real de Zamora / boutique hotel, dark, 'me no like' but beautiful / 32kms 
24 May / Zamora to Montamarta / Fonda El Asturiano / good and clean / 18kms 
25 May / Sunday / Montamarta to Granja de Moreruela / private apartment / good / 22 kms / split Camino Sanabres / Via de la Plata 
26 May / Granja de Moreruela to Tabara / Hotel El Roble / perfect and superb cooking / 32kms 
27 May / Tabara to Calzadilla de Tera / Albergue Municipal donativo, dormitory / good / 32kms / sleeping bag 
28 May / Calzadilla de Tera to Mombuey / Albergue Parroquial donativo, dormitory / good / 26kms / sleeping bag 
29 May / Sick day and Travel day from Mombuey to Asturianos to Puebla de Sanabria to Ourense / 150kms / hotel Irixo / good 
30 May / Ourense to Tamallancos / Hotel Viastellae / good / 13kms 
31 May / Tamallancos to Lalin / Hotel El Palacio / excellent / 24kms walk to O'Dozon / nowhere to sleep; then bus to Lalin 
1 June / Sunday / Lalin to Silleda / Hotel Ramos / very good / 17kms 
2 June / Silleda to Puente Ulla / Pension O Cruceiro / very good / 22kms 
3 June / Puente Ulla to Deseiro / Albergue Reina Lupa / excellent / 11 kms 
4 June / Deseiro to Santiago de Compostela / Hotel Horreo / good / 12kms 
5 June / Santiago de Compostela / Pilgrim's mass in Cathedral and sightseeing / Pension Rey Fernando / excellent  / great location for taking the bus to airport
6 June / Santiago de Compostela / flight to Barcelona / I missed the connecting flight to Eindhoven because I fell asleep 
7 June / Barcelona flight to Eindhoven / bus to Leende home-house. 

I carried my 38 liter Korean 'Summit' backpack weighing 7 to 8 kgs. I never take a lot of food or drink with me. Max. 1 liter of water; a few foodbars and a good dry Spanish sausage ('fuet') will get me a long way!

I spent on average 62 euros a day on the trail / and including flights and new boots and incidentals the amount spent over 47 days came to a bit less than 4.000 euros. In and out. 84 Euros a day......and I believe I lived quite luxuriously as 'un peregrino con plata'! 

And here are a few tidbits: 

1. The day I ended up in Nueva Jarilla I had walked 44 kms as in Jerez de la Frontere the only room I could find was at a NH Hoteles for the juicy price of 485 euros (sin desayuno!). Amd I never drank a sherry in Jerez!!
The World Championship road motor racing attracted 200.000 visitors. And also in Nueva Jarilla, 25 kms further North there was nothing available. So after an early dinner I decided to sleep in the park. Then I found that there were quite a few ducks around which meant stagnant water. Ah, of course I could go and ask  the priest at the church but no, these villages were only served once a week by a roving priest and the church remains normally locked up. Then, at that moment, my daughter Kesso Gabrielle sent me a message from Malawi asking me how I was doing. In only 10 minutes she had figured out with Chat GPT and Facebook the name of the person in charge of the laymen services at the church....and yes that family offered me a place. 15 Minutes later a lady called Veronica ushered me into their huge garage where some 20 mattresses were already placed for the visiting bikers. I thanked her father Diego and her profoundly, took a quick shower in the cabin at the back of the garage, rolled out my sleeping bag, slipped inside, thanked God and my daughter in prayer, and said goodbye to the world. I did not even hear the bikers coming in at night. 
My home for the night: Garage in Nueva Jarilla before the bikers arrived


2. Songs that I quietly sang and hummed on the trail:
'I am a pilgrim' by the Byrds, 
'Across the borderline' by Willy DeVille,
'Don't let the stars get in your eyes' by Carl Mann. 

3 A prime reference book about the various Caminos with superb photographs is written by H.G. Kaufmann and M. Bravo Lozano (in German): Santiago de Compostela, auf alten Wegen EUROPA neu entdecken; Tyrolia Verlag 1992. 

4. Finally a note about an important message from Jesus to His Apostles before He finally went to heaven. He asked all of them to spread thoughout the world and preach the word. And he predicted that all except one would become martyrs. It was also assumed that the Apostles/martyrs were laid to rest in the countries where they had preached. And so it happened. Sint James=San Thiago was murdered by Herod in Judea but he preached in Spain. After his death his body was moved to Spain and his remains with 2 more disciples of him  now rest in the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. 
Thomas preached in India and Pakistan and died most probably in Kerala. Peter went to Rome and was murdered there by Nero. Andrew preached in Northern Turkey and the Krim. Simon preached in Egypt and Libya. Bartholomeus went to Armenia. Thaddeus went to Persia and Assyria. Filippus went to the Ukraine and North of the Caspian Sea. Matthew also went to Northern India. Matthias went to Rumania. And the one who did not become a martyr was John who was banned to Patmos island by the Romans but died in peace in Efese, Turkey. Paul, formerly Saul, was not one of the initial Apostles; he never met Jesus either,  but became in reality one....he died as a martyr also in Rome, hanged with his feet up by Nero.


Arrival with thanks 4th June '25 Cathedral Santiago de Compostela

In the end......I flew from Santiago de Compostela airport to Barcelona....and missed my connection to Eindhoven in the NL.
WHY? Simply because I fell asleep on a bench. The gate nr. had not been decided  yet and I had to wait 3 hours anyway. So I moved around to find a place to rest. And resting I did. When I woke up the plane had left!! Jeepers. That was an expensive rest! I had to buy a new ticket (thank you Valerie!), spent the night at the airport and leave the next morning......Then after a walk of more than 1.000kms, who would not need a good rest?