Baltic states travel in summer 2022 by Anton and Biya

Finally the Baltic States: a summer trip by Anton van Zutphen and Biya Han in 2022. Observations and a personal historic perspective.

The countries Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia had a short period of semi/full independence following World War 1. Then in the run-up to World War 2 these were assimilated again briefly by Germany and later fully by the USSR. This, until 1991  when the USSR under the leadership of President Mikhail Gorbatchev broke up in many independent countries leaving 'Mother Russia' as a shrunken withered old lady with its new President Boris Yeltsin to manage it. 

Right now, with the war in Ukraine and the problems Russia has at its borders with Moldova and Georgia, the impact can still be felt and is worrying many Europeans seriously.

Another border Westwards, which offers an interesting example of an 'En-Clave area' is Kaliningrad (Koenigsberg in German) a port-area that remains ice-free in winter on the coasts of Lithuania/Poland which officially belongs to Russia. One million people, mostly Russians live here and the area is connected with Russia (through Lithuania) by a railway which ferries goods and people from and to Russia. I looked out very carefully for this special railway when travelling through Lithuania but never saw it. Obviously it is shielded from views from the general public and protected by security forces in a discrete manner.

I had never been to this part of the world but read about it when I was at secondary school. My father had stamps from the Free Trade Zone of Danzig in his collection and as a boy of six I looked up in the Dutch 'Bos atlas' where this 'country' was situated.

Unfortunately Kaliningrad was now out of the question for Biya and me to visit. So we decided to start at the famous Hansa-Stadt harbour of Gdansk, or Danzig (in German). We flew 23rd July from Eindhoven airport where we had to line up some four hours before departure. All airports in the NL during Corona-time lacked staff (mainly bagage handling, security, handluggage checks); incredible but true. Staff had been let go a year earlier during the full blown Covid epidemic when travel had slowed down, and workers had not been replaced in time. Shame to the NL! In the past my country was known for its efficiency. Forget it. These days we cannot even run our railways properly.

Hansa World / Hansa Stadt / Treaty: an important concept focussing on the sea and river trade between the 13th and end of 16th century. The professional associations of traders and other 'guilds' in over 150 cities/small towns throughout North-Western Europe worked together on free trade, protection of their goods and priviliges for their members. It was a huge semi-liberal trade treaty with towns such as Luebeck, Gdansk, Tallinn, Riga, Bergen in Norway, Bremen, Hamburg, Cologne, Bruges, Antwerp, and Zwolle and Zutphen in the NL amongst others.

Gdansk, historic vessel Hanseatic trade 

YES, indeed the town from which my family must have come originally although I have never been able to justify this. Our traceable family tree goes back only to around 1740...and no mention of the town 'Zutphen', but only of the area around 'Veghel', some 100 kms south of Zutphen town, and 40 kms North of Leende. 

Biya and I enormously enjoyed visiting the trader's houses/offices and warehouses in the Baltic states / Riga is tops! Beautifully painted and enriched with many statues. Inside, all wooden panelling and high, decorated ceilings.

Gdansk mainstreet with Hansa trading houses

This important trade in grain, wood, amber, cloth, to name a few commodities, provided employment and stabilized the whole area along Europe's North-Western coast economically, and such for four centuries. I had not expected that the centre of Gdansk had been kept in style so well (and repaired with E. U. monies). We arrived in the middle of a festival and streets were crowded with people having fun. Good streetfood like big sandwiches with lard,  minced meat topped up with tomato and cornichon. Loved it! In particular with a pint of 'Tyskie Lager'.

Gdansk streetfood / yummy!

Actually the port of Gdansk is smack dab in the middle of town. And the weather: sunny with a soft breeze. Aghhhh, the weather in the summer in the Baltic states with warm winds from continental Russia is something to remember. We did not have any rain; just sun and not too hot. Evenings, all cools down but still pleasant. Swimming in the Baltic sea or better walking and sitting in it was a nice thing to do. And quiet man! Compared with the Dutch and German isles like Texel and Sylt, the Baltic shores are 'empty', and clean, and also with nude beaches and dunes to relax in. Haha, even Biya zipped down and out; and tried out the women's-only nude beach and talked with the ladies there; in Paernu, Estonia.  

Nicely called Ladies' Beach / nudist beach in Paernu, Estonia

As Kaliningrad in Russia was forbidden terrain, we took a slow train through the wetlands of isolated 'Masurenland' to the towns of Olsztyn and Elk in North-Eastern Poland, where we found a nice room, right at the lake. We had by now already agreed that if we like it somewhere, we stay at least two nights; and in the larger cities often three nights. Clearly, moving around like a grasshopper and change hotelbeds every night; NO, that is too fast and factually you won't remember anymore where you actually have been! Thus we travelled all around the Kaliningrad area into Lithuania and ended up in Klaipeda. There used to be a ferry between Gdansk in Poland and Klaipeda in Lithuania but because of the troubles with Russia and the warships going in and out of Kaliningrad it was suspended. 

So we arrived from the East and visited one of the most beautiful sites in Lithuania: the 60 metres high dunes of Nida, a sandy strip on a landtongue some 20 kms long, and preciously kept intact. Ultra-famous German writer Thomas Mann (Nobel Prize winner in 1929 and author of 'Death in Venice'), had his summer cottage on the Nida strip. His works were later, in the 'Third Reich', banned by Hitler.

The famous dunes at Nida, Lithuania

This area is protected by signs (Do not go here or, Forbidden to enter here!) though, when we wandered through the dunes close to the sea, Biya (who else?) decided to stroll a bit too far and I had to call and summon! her back because she was nearly stepping onto Russian territory. Because of the vast sandbanks and dunes the Russians could have had an easy enough shot at her from a mile upshore. We saw the bunkers Russia side, but never a clear border. And I was afraid of mines as well. 

Dune landscape Nida / the green strip is where Russia starts

Anyway, we were the only walkers that came so close; the locals knew better! From Nida there is an old road, submerged during storms, that connects with Kaliningrad and that was in existence for centuries (now closed obviously). The weekly mail-coaches drawn by four if not six horses, from St. Petersburg to Gdansk and onto Hamburg, Amsterdam, Brussels and Paris used to pass through here. That is how the mail went end of 18th century when the elite of St. Petersburg felt part of the high class and nobility of Western Europe. 'Noblesse oblige'. 

Because the Baltic shores seem endless, and well connected, we visited a few pretty beach locations like Palanga in Lithuania, Dubulti on the outskirts of Riga in Latvia, and the best one: Paernu in Estonia. We 'hotelled' twice in Paernu. Why? The weather was gorgeous, the beach idem dito, the town spacious, leafy and quiet. Our 'youth hostel' top of the pops with mouthwatering mussles. This town was the preferred holiday resort for the well to-do Russians from St. Petersburg. And many of these families still own houses / big houses! The beach has a ladies' nude section close to the dunes and men are warned that they approach an unusual location with undressed ladies. And I guess I was the only man that I saw near it. Then I walked by this section through the undeep sea and had my sight firmly onto the Northwest, direction Sweden! Honest to God!

Biya in Paernu, Baltic Sea

Like in Moldova, quite a few established Russians (from the times of the USSR) rent out their properties to tourists. Must be uneasy for the Russians these days. The independent Baltic states regularly 'upgrade' the requirements for all kinds of services and employment. True or not true but Latvia now requires people employed by government to speak, read and write the national Latvian language, the now elderly Russians never learnt. Visas for Russians are now a must. So imagine, your typical rich Russian family has had property for more than 75 years in Paernu; now because the world has changed they may not be allowed to visit it anymore, and there could be a time soon that holders of a Russian passport are not be allowed in at all. I would not be surprised if that happens in the coming two years as confrontation between Russia and NATO states deepens. Russia channels illegal immigrants into Finland, and possibly will start doing this into the Baltic states as well soon. And how do mostly young parents who have a Russian father/mother and a Latvian spouse feel now? This story is just unfolding...

Then how different from Western Europe: no diversity as to how people look. We hardly saw any Africans or Asians at all. Biya ran into some Uzbeks in Palanga beach market who thought she was a sister from their tribe. Certainly in a big country like Poland we did not see 'non Europeans'. Clearly their (illegal) immigrants blockage system works. Then the moment you cross from the Czech Republic into Germany wow...it is migrants all over in the trains and buses. And because we benefitted from the 9 euros one month Covid related cheap transport fee, I  thought during the trainride from Schwandorf to Nuremburg to Aachen that I/me, Anton is the exception in Germany. My looks were in the vast minority!

We travelled at the end of the summer season and met mostly Germans, a few like Joerg and Christiane on their bikes; a handfull of  Americans visiting their ancestor's places and hardly any young travellers. We saw some Israeli tourgroups in Riga, Vilnius and Prague that visited the Jewish ghettos, which are all clearly marked. The Baltic states and Poland housed large populations of Ashkenaze Jews before World War 2. The Vilnius ghetto was the largest and had more than 40.000 Jews packed in large blocks of houses and apartments with their infrastructure of schools, hospital, clinics, synagogues, and shops. When Adolf Eichmann, in charge of Hitler's holocaust programme closed the ghetto in September 1943, zero people were left. Biya and I wandered through it for hours. It is a rabbit warren of narrow streets, surrounded by a few wide avenues. It was easy for the Nazi regime to control these large areas by simply blocking off the streets with guarded walls and barbed wire. When walking through Vilnius, ghetto scenes out of the movie 'The Pianist' by Roman Polanski (2002) automatically popped up in my head. I saw the terrible places around me. Incredible that people were and are capable of doing this. One genocide after the other against ...Armenians some 100 years ago in Turkiya; Krim-Tatars, Ingushetians and Chechens during the Stalin regime as of 1944; and Tutsi's in Rwanda in 1994, amongst others. We met by chance Zydrone the sympathic travel guide-lady in the ghetto; she lived there in a refurbished backstreet apartment. The three of us spoke Spanish and English with each other and she explained how after WW2 the ghetto itself 'survived' for some 40 years before the newly established Lithuanian government started to re-arrange it. But the old hospital the Jews were managing is still there; with bullet holes all over it! 

I grew up during the Cold War with the Iron Curtain firmly closed, and having visited East Berlin quite often I was very disappointed by the looks of that place, compared to West Berlin. And of course, Berlin had been destroyed in 1944-45 and the Russians had no means to rebuild it, whereas the Americans and West Germans pumped billions of Deutschmarks into West Berlin. Then places like Gdansk, Kaunas, Riga, Tallin and Vilnius had kept their old cobbled streets and Hansa houses and 'done them up'. So colourful with the churches in perfect shape and open all the time. The squares neatly arranged with trees around them and old fashioned music kiosks for Sunday afternoon live music. 

What did strike us with the young people especially in Lithuania and Poland was....tatoos galore. And the ugly ones with deadheads, skulls, skeletons, dragons, snakes, naked ladies, abusive and negative language and so on. Men and women. Over lunch in Vilnius we were served by this pretty young lady with some horrible tatoos. Biya was frank and wanted to know 'Please tell me, what do you like about them tatoos', and she responsed sadly 'I was on holidays in Turkiya, got drunk and then had it done'. I sincerely believe that in Poland, one out of every four people between 15 and 50 years has this kind of tatoos.  In the old days; 1960...? only sailors and criminals did this in the Netherlands. Grrr, so 'filthy'. Biya and I fail to understand the message, if there is one at all. 

We had one quite long trip from Vilnius to Warsaw, onto Krakow (colourful!) and onto Prague in the Czech republic. Then entering Poland we got stuck in Bialystok railway station and spent the night on a bench outside. Biya slept nicely, covered with her sleeping bag,  while I spied on the alcoholics that hung around the station and kept an eye on our stuff haha: I did and they did! It was safe but then we were not the only ones sleeping outside; also some young girls by themselves. I guess they were used to it; and also used to the harmless alcoholics. And the railway police walking by every hour found everything in order too.  

Prague, its Castle and bridges and the Moldau river. We stayed in the Continental hotel / 5 stars for the price of 1 star / with a sumptuous breakfast outside, overlooking the Golden Domes of the city; thanks to Biya's booking.com skills. Of course we took a romantic afternoon cruise on the Moldau river. 

Garden of our landlady in Kaunas, Lithuania

OK Anton, you are in the Czech Republic; the time to drink Pilsner Urquell has started now!

Then a day and night in Karlovy Vary with its spa's / healthy mineral water all over town which people kept drinking from faucets/fountains while strolling around with a glass. What a town too: simply beautiful. I had been here in 1974 but forgotten most of it. 'Karlsbad' it was called 100 years ago. The rich, famous and free men and women  during the liberal decadent days between the two World Wars partied overhere in exuberance, fully confident of themselevs. Something like it can be viewed in the cult movie 'Cabaret' (1972), directed by Bob Fosse with Liza Minelli starring. This 'Greek or Roman grandeur' can still  be seen everywhere, reflected in the buildings. 

I had secretly planned it well before starting this Baltic trip: end up in Pilsen, Czech Republic and down a few beers with Biya at the Urquell Pilsner brewery during my birthday 22nd August. And it worked out! We arrived by train and saw the brewery from the station. Here is the place! The foremost brewery in the world where the type of beer called 'Pilsner' was brewed first; and it was here in Bohemia in 1842. And this Pilsner was developed further to a distinctful taste that no other Pilsner in the world can match. Biya, myself and our friend Gerard all agree. We had a two hours explanation tour and went through the cellars and saw the red copper, and iron/metal brewing kettles and tasted beer that had just been finished and tested for quality, and was ready to be rolled out and sold. All the Urquell Pilsner beer, wherever you buy a bottle or a can in the world, comes from this one brewery (only from red copper kettles). And the Gambrinus Pilsner (only from iron/metal kettles).

Urquell Pilsner brewery, a place to remember 

We bought Pilsner glasses and use them regularly: one in Seoul and one in Leende. Just imagine Biya and I sitting outside the brewery savouring Pilsner Urquell freshly brewed and draught, while looking into each other's eyes on a wooden bench and toasting to each other. Mutual love, Cheers and Prost!

Two days in Pilsen and then by train to Aachen in Germany. A very long day and because of the 9 euros deal and the limitation that we could only use regional trains we had to spend the night at Aachen Bahnhof (haha in Wezlar we saw the train leaving just 25 meters away from our noses; we could not make it). Aiaiai/Schade! The French would say 'Merde'.

A night in the railway station and again 'clochards', alcoholics and drugboys around. Quite a few of them. More than 20 I counted. Also other passengers that had missed the last train into the Netherlands or Belgium; two  nice Chilean ladies that loved talking Spanish with Biya.

One of the bagmen we made  happy by offering him a cup of coffee at the crack of dawn. He looked into my eyes possibly hoping for a fag. 'No way mate, I am afraid there are no smokes coming from this man'.

final trainride home from Aachen station / early morning

Then crossing into the Netherlands onto Heerlen by train and to Maarheeze by train and bus nr. 11 to Leende. Home at 11am on August 24. 

Trip finished. Baltic states off the bucket list.  

Thank you Biya dear. It was a most wonderful travel experience. All positive! I felt hunky dory.  Would like going back to Paernu beach, Estonia in the coming five years with YOU!

 By the way...and off our track...we did visit Finland for a day and took the early sunrise ferry from Tallinn to Helsinki. And strolled through rich and modern downtown Helsinki. Because we had left soooo early we slept outside a church for more than an hour on a bench after devouring our packed lunch. With arms close to each other and our stuff. I liked the looks of Helsinki. But no place for me in autumn and winter with its short days. Now, mid-August the days were still long; and we took the 9pm ferry in full daylight back to Tallinn, Estonia. Day well spent! 

Remarkable or not: I only saw one Fiat Polski but still a few Trabants. And of course Lada Niva's all over.

Remarkable:  Biya met one Korean couple who recognised her...I never heard any Dutch spoken at all. 

Remarkable and definitely true: 'Hansa Pilsener' from Dortmund in Germany is THE favourite beer from Germany for Biya. This cheapy student's beer is also a Pilsner @ 4.8% alcohol, light and fresh that I love drinking! In 2023...less than 10 euros a crate of 20 bottles of each half a liter. In 2021 the price used to be less than 9 euros!

NIGER:  Terug in de Tijd naar Zomer 1981: Ton & Cor.

 Ton van Zutphen en Cor van den Hurk, deux bons amis!

Reis met Peugeot 504 (12-RS-64 NL) van Ton ( 29jaar ) en Cor ( 32 jaar )  'tripping' van  Cadier en Keer naar Agadez / SAHARA-SAHEL

Ik werkte als landendirecteur NIGER voor EIRENE/Neuwied am Rhein/DE sinds maart 1979. Mijn eerste grote job in de ontwikkelings business. J'etais le patron. Haha.

EIRENE was en is nog steeds een prima pragmatische ontwikkelingsorganisatie. Motivatie, doelgerichtheid, samenwerking met de armsten en een eenvoudige doch doelmatige aanpak kenschetsen deze 'Friedensdienst". Ik heb in Niger bijna 4 jaar gewerkt en heb toen het Afrikaanse leven in meerdere facetten leren begrijpen. 'Met de sandalen in het zand' i.p.v. met de klompen in de klei.

Mijn standplaats Agadez was toen begin 1979 een stad van ong. 20.000 inwoners en snel uitdijend. Edoch, het traditionele in deze meer dan 1000 jaar oude nederzetting overheerste toen nog.

Mijn beste studievriend Cor uit mijn universiteitsjaren wilde wel een poging wagen om samen een uitdagende reis door de woestijn te maken van NL naar Niger.

Zo gezegd, zo gepland. We vertrokken in juni ''81 vanuit het Centrum Ontwikkeling der Volkeren, het COV (mijn thuisbasis in NL) met een prachtige 2e hands Peugeot 504 GL. Deze auto heb ik vrijwel direct na aankomst in Agadez aan de directeur douane ter plaatse voor een leuk bedrag verzilverd. Handje contantje!

Binnenplaats COV: Agnes, Ton, Gerard, Cor, Frans, Jan v. Uden en dochter Nina

Bijna 4.000 kms te gaan via NL, Belgie, Duitsland, Zwitserland, Italie naar Genua. Met de ferry naar Napels (overnachten met bezoek aan Pompei), en verder met het schip naar Tunis. Daarna rijden door Tunesie (met een bezoek aan het eiland Djerba), en Algerije om na 10 dagen aan te komen in Agadez, 'parel van de Sahel'.

Een oud verkeersbord bij de eerste grote oase stad Ghardaia in Algerije. In de jaren na 1965 werd vanuit Algiers de Route Nationale 1 geasfalteerd tot aan Tamanrasset, dwars door Algerije van Noord tot Zuid: een huzarenstukje. Toen wij deze 'RN1' gebruikten waren er al veel slechte stukken, en weinig onderhoud. 

Nu in 2023 is de weg volledig kapot gereden. Door de grote afstanden en de weinige hulpposten was het zelfs in 1981 niet ongevaarlijk door de Sahara te rijden. Met name de laatste 400 kms van Tamanrasset via de grenspost In Guezzam naar Arlit in Niger waren berucht omdat de weg enkel uit los zand bestond. Om de paar honderd meter wel een 'carcasse de voiture'. 

Kamperen in de vrije natuur Sahara pur sang 

We sliepen in de woestijn en we hadden alles bij ons;  ook een passagier namens Marie uit Frankrijk die haar vriend in Agadez ging bezoeken. Geen enkele lekke band gehad. Motor liep als een  naaimachientje; wel vaak vastgezeten in het rulle zand. Dus rijplaten gebruiken en spitten. 

De moskee in Agadez is wereldberoemd en opgetrokken uit leem (adobe) in 1515. Een baken in de woestijn en zichtbaar van meer dan 10 kms afstand. Cor en Ton zijn ook boven geweest in de minaret, met speciale permissie. De LandRover serie 2 ( no airco) met drie zitplaatsen voorin was het werkpaard van Ton. 

Voor de deur aan de oude kamelenmarkt Agadez

Mijn belangrjkste buurman aan de oude kamelenmarkt in Agadez waar ik huis en bureau had is El Hadj, ongeveer 65 jaar en staande in de deuropening. Zijn notabele vrienden waren op bezoek. Allemaal gekleed in hun dagelijkse Tuareg plunje. El Hadj was in 1952 met en op de kameel van Agadez naar Mekka gelopen/gereden en weer terug. Dat waren nog eens tijden....Agadez, Bilma, Djado, en doorsteken naar Egypte; met de boot de Rode Zee over en bidden in Mekka.

Hij was bijna vijf maanden onderweg geweest. Un vrai pelerin! Ik woonde in het oudste gedeelte van de stad: 'Quartier de l'Anistafidet'.

Idyllisch dorp Aouderas  anno 1981 / AIR gebergte

EIRENE werkte in drie project regios: Tchin Tabisgin, Egandawel en Aouderas. Begonnen eind zestiger jaren in dit aride gebied met het slaan en verbeteren van waterputten voor het vee en de tuinbouw in de oases. Aouderas was bekend omdat de bevolking openstond voor verniewingen en omdat het een prachtig gelegen, oud dorp was in het Air gebergte.

Alle buitenlandse vrijwilligers stonden dichtbij de mensen en medewerkers. Op reis aten we samen en we overnachtten bij hen in de dorpen. Onderstaande foto is gemaakt op de binnenplaats van het projectgebouw annex huis van EIRENE in het dorp Egandawel

Ton, Cor, Mahammadou/chef project Egandawel
zittend: Mohammed jr., Miriama, dochter  van ElHadj Mustapha; en 'Miss' vrouw van Mahammadou

  
Ton met een peuter in het dorp Aouderas. Ook ik werkte in een'aviateur' = hemd zonder mouwen met gaten aan de zijkanten ter ventilatie; een simpele katoenen broek omgegord, en de typisch lederen en roodgeverfde 'Tuareg sandalen'.  

Jongedame Colona uit Aouderas ,  frank en vrij, en behulpzaam. Intelligent en nieuwsgierig en liet zich de kaas niet van het brood eten / oftewel de gierst niet van haar houten bord! Een buitenbeentje en ongehuwd. Positief  en betrouwbaar. Tradioneel gekleed in het zwart.  Drie klassen lagere school maar een bijdehandje van ong. 20 jaar jong.

Ton van Zutphen, 9/12/2023 te Leende, NL

Alle fotos gemaakt door kameraad Cor van den Hurk. Met dank!

Moldova, South Eastern Europe and Balkans: a six weeks summer trip in 2023 by Biya Han and Anton van Zutphen

I have always wanted to go to Moldova, one of the ex-USSR Republics. This is because when I was working in Vienna in the period 2000-2004, and during the major disturbances in Afghanistan and Iraq in the same period, the vision was that a number of other countries were also going to be affected like Turkey and Iran. And possibly even those countries that previously were considered to have remained under the influence of the new Russia, but were in fact discreetly moving toward the norms and values that Europe has adopted. And such primarily through the European Uninon. Moldova was considered the poorest country in terms of monetary income of the whole lot of ex-USSR Republics and therefore vulnerable to conflict and agitation from Russia. Now in 2023 this same vulnerability still exists.

The year before, during the summer of 2022 Biya and I travelled extensively through Poland, Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia. It was during the early days of the war between Russia and the Ukraine. When we spoke to people, especially the younger ones, we heard that soooo many had one of their parents who were either Ukrainian or Russian. Throughout the 80 plus years of the USSR, inter-ethnic marriage was a norm not an exception. The same can be said of former Yugoslavia in the past century; and of Moldova. This fact alone is leading to huge family conflicts. What struck me in Moldova's capital Chisinau was the impression that a lot of small businesses are owned or in the hands of ethnic Russians, that make up more than 20% of its population. Many Moldovans only speak Russian and no English. And obviously the region which is de facto separated from Moldova is Transnistria: we decided not to visit its capital Tiraspol for the simple reason that one can easily get into a 'misunderstanding' with its people (many of these pro-Russia). An issue over whatever small thing could easily get out of proportion and then what? Westerners like Biya and I are considered to be in line with the current heavily pro-European government in Chisinau. We took no risks. 

For me the question remains: is Moldova part of Europe? I do not think so but as the media and communications from Brussels appear to say again and again: yes, including countries like Georgia and Armenia. The Russian bear definitely shall not like this. No country likes to loose its sphere of influence. Rightly so I would say. I would not be surprised when in the coming two years Mr. Putin will deploy more troops to the borders of Moldova, Georgia and Armenia to instill some sense of reality with fear in the people and their leaders there. 

Anyway we did not really talk politics during the trip. 

We flew into Romania on 8th August from Eindhoven airport; to Suceava, a pretty and small town close to Ukraine. We wanted to just stay for a day or two to plan our trip to Moldova. What a nice place Suceava turned out to be. Rich culture and a heroic past with huge monastries and a castle that speaks for itself. In fact this part of Romania, (Bessarabia, Buckovina and Walachia it was called 150 years ago) had been on the frontier of Christians fighting the advance of the Ottomans. Then Suceava is all walking to show this history: the famous St.John's monastry; the traditional village exposition; the centre of town which offers old and new with a nice park to stroll through. The tradional village that was built shows in detail rural life some 100 plus years ago. Clearly one sees rural Romania 450 kms away from the capital Bucarest with farms and homesteads without electricity, or running water (families and cattle sharing living quarters) and no tarred roads with people moving about with oxcarts and donkeys. 

Then King Stefan cel Mare remains the great hero of this region/also in Moldova. His long life and reign (he died at age 71! in 1504) safeguarded the interests and power of Romania, Moldova and beyond. The many castles he built in this region can count for that! I really can recommend Sucaeva as a hassle free entry into Romania and onward to Moldova via Iasi. Entering Moldova by bus I was truck by the largesse of the houses and gardens. These farmers all have vineyards and late summer they get together and still drink their own wine in the evenings on the porch. And huge plots of I guess about 2.500 square meters around their homesteads. A scene I never forget and which was told to me by my mother when she was reading fairy tales to me when I was 3 or 4 years: I really saw while in a village, riding on the bus, an elderly man herding a pack of geese! For someone like me who appreciates old fashioned scenes Moldova has lots to offer: rolling hills with wooden buildings, villages with paths and no tarred roads, people working their gardens with a hoe, a lot of vintage tractors and harvesters moving about. People in the countryside seem to be at ease. A nice place to cycle without heavy traffic at all. 

Also nice, including all over Romania, and later throughout other countries we crossed like Montenegro, Albania and Croatia: no tourist hassles from vendors or taxidrivers. Biya and I felt comfortable looking around and asking about this and that. Nobody acted like they wanted something out of our deep pockets. Then indeed we hardly saw any tourists in Moldova. There were some visiting the Cricova vineyards and the impressive tunnels where they keep millions of bottles (most of it exported to Russia). And in Orhei Vecci where one can see how the monks used to live in the caves against a beautiful backdrop of fields full of sunflower and maize.

Monastry and fields Orhei Vecci, Moldova

Orhei Vecci was a bit problematic to reach as we did not have a car but once arrived,  this location impresses any visitor: a small entry to crawl through, then reach the cave where monks used to live and where they had created/built a small church. 

Orhei Vecci: church in cave

These monks were real hermits and not allowed to leave whenever they wanted. Their dark 'slots' in which they pray and sleep in the cave ...grrr not for me. I just remember there is now only one monk left...basically to deal with visitors. Selling a lot of memorabilia. We saw the same all over with the Orthodox Churches: priests and monks sell all kinds of bibles, prints, icons to hang in there financially But it appears that being a priest remains a popular vocation. Many of them we met and talked with were youngish, spoke English and had their children studying outside the country in Western Europe. Interesting also, foodwise Moldova reminded me about Southern Russia (Ingushetia): borsjt=beet soup with sour cream; polenta/maize; lots of pork and some rice. They definitely do excellent soups. 

Moldova's capital Chisinau is small and still has houses with large gardens. It's centre very much Russian-styled with square buildings and cheap looking flats 'Plattenbau'(as was the case in Eastern Germany). All in al I did not get the impression that its people are very poor (as we are told). Rural folk mind their own business and grow much of what they eat. Only for high education, transport and modern stuff (like computers)...yeah that requires a lot of money. For me Moldova is a country to go back to: with a bicycle and pedal around in the spring when the land is green and clean and the crispy weather perfect. 

 Saint George Orthodox Church, Constanta, Romania

I had wanted to see the Danube delta with its flora and fauna but timewise this was not possible. So we crossed the border between Moldova and Romania by overnight bus and we stayed a few days in Constanta with its beaches. It is not my kind of environment but interesting to see how socialist hotels have now had a make-over and look quite 'Westernized' with all the shops and eateries. This big city on the sea has a huge port and we had a interesting drive through it. Old buildings, empty docks, quais and rusted ships with stuff lying all over. The E.U. is putting a lot of money into this kind of dysfunctional infrastructure. Now, with the war ongoing across the Black Sea, business has dropped I was told. Constanta keeps its charm with leafy quartiers and sandy beaches although seas were rough when we were there. We actually saw the Romanian airforce doing a mock attack on helicopters (to warn the Russians not to come too close). True, the beachfront in and around Constanta covers miles long of sandy beaches with the Maiama beach as the people's favourite. Fair enough and still busy by the middle of end of August with mostly Romanians. 

We took the train to Bucharest and I enjoyed this slow mode of traveling. When I first traveled through this region in 1974 railways were prime: most travelers started from Vienna to take the Orient Express train into Hungary and further to Belgrade into Yugoslavia. There were only a few direct buses for 'hippies', like the 'Magic Bus' from Amsterdam to Istanbul and as far as Kathmandu; and the special buses for Turkish guestworkers from Istanbul to Cologne and Munich in Germany. Nowadays, it is all about the bus: Flixbus and its subcontracting national companies rule the roast. Special busstations exist on the outskirts of Bucharest, Sofia, Skopje and Zagreb where one can take the long distance buses such as from Skopje in Macedonia to Paris, to St. Petersburg, to Barcelona and even to Odessa in the Ukraine. And do book early because this kind of transport is cheaper and much faster than trains. 

We traveled by train and bus in one go from Constanta to Bucharest and Sofia to Skopje where we met my trusted ex World Vision collegue-logistician Radomir Gerowski. Apart from a few grey hairs the man had not changed: conscious of himself in a nice manner, a no nonsense person, always helpful and with a 'can do' mentality. Biya immediately took to him. 

Radomir/Anton scootering /background statue Alexander the Great

 

He drove us around on his Italian scooter and showed us the two highlights of Skopje: the birthplace/spot of Saint Theresa (Mother Theresa of Calcutta) and the statue of Alexander the Great (who by the way was not born in current Macedonia but in Pella around 350 years B.C. (Pella is in Greece). The Macedonians with professional marketing have been able to convince the world that Alexander is a true son of their country only. 

Radomir, Biya, Anton at Memorial birthplace Saint Theresa in Skopje, Macedonia

It was nice to see Radomir again. A stable man with a caring family and most likely getting back the lands that the Yugoslav socialists took from his grandparents. 'It will make me a rich man' he chuckled! What a joy to see and meet someone back from the times when Isabel Gomes, Julian Srodecki and I worked on a 'winterization prgramme' during the crisis in Tetovo, Macedonia more than 20 years ago. At that time the Albanians tried to get back parts of Macedonia (mostly Muslim dominated areas) by infiltrating the country with armed groups that roughed up the countryside. We as humanitarian actors then developed a programme through which as a minimum one room of a burnt homestead was rebuilt so the family could pass the winter inside it and keep warm. Work well done! 

Radomir told us 'Ohrid is a mess, too many crazy visitors'. Then both Biya and I were fixed on this historic place and we were not disappointed: a clear blue lake one can swim in, a different church to pray in for every day of the year, a room with view on the lake and in walking distance to all the sites, especially the castle and monastry up the hill. It was my birthday and we ran into an elderly photographer/mountaineeer who in the past had worked with  Edmund Hillary in Kathmandu. We talked and he invited us to his cozy cottage. He, Rumen Kamilov thoughtfully offered us cake and a strong cherry-based Schnapps. What a nice surprise on my 72nd birthday 22 August. Actually we met other very nice people; many retired from Belgrade and Skopje who had bought years back a second home by the lake. Haha, yes we went for dinner at the 'Belvedere restaurant', where the waiter with his fat neck (no name of course) charged us one beer too many. When I told him he looked at us as if he did not know. Then he simple said 'ok'. Then I asked to pay with my card. And he said 'the machine is broke'. After paying cash, we waited for the change that never came. Every time he passed our table he pretended not to see us or waved, signalling that he would come asap. No bill and no change; we finally gave up. Yes, a professional 'tourist picker'. Biya was furious and remained so, even after I said 'Leave it to God'. Interestingly when we related the story to our new acquaintances Lenka and Rumen, both mentioned something like 'yes stuff happens', and 'no worries most waitors are ok'. 

In Ohrid and next to our apartment in the old town is a small museum with all the books by Dutch writer A den Doolaard (the wanderer). He lived here between the two World Wars in the past century and his books were part of our literature exams at school. Raw reality and traditional culture of the Balkans is what he described. I read at least five books by him: 'The inn with the horseshoe', 'Marriage of the seven gypsies' and 'The grape pickers' are three of them. Then we went onwards to Struga town, also on the lake and in no way comparable to Ohrid apart from the beach. Biya is an expert on trading 'booking.com'. She has 'Genius status' which gives her financial privileges. She found a place which marketed itself like 'bright apartment overlooking the seafront with private beach, swimming pool and restaurant'. The deal seemed perfect, only when we got there she received a message on her mobile that the municipality had cut off the electricity. And 'sorry I cannot assist you finding another accomodation'. Ha, we found out that the beach, pool and restaurant were about 150 meters away from the apartment across the street and was all public. And his apartment on the 6th floor looked grimy from the outside. Fortunately Biya found another wonderful exclusive apartment with Daniela as our host; cheapo cheapo! Generally out of 10 reservations of accomodation Biya scored 8 of them Tops!

Then onto Tirana, Albania where at the busstation the poor, old, nice but illegal taxi driver ('only euros please') could not find our rented apartment. He must have cruised around in the centre for about 30 minutes to find the Fatmir Haixhu road (who was a most famous Albanian painter!) It was stifling hot with > 40 degrees C. 

Tirana like all other capitals and major cities in the Balkans and South East Europe has changed enormously. Although Albania like Serbia has no interest to become part of the E.U. the signs of liberal capitalism are all over: shopping malls featuring the latest fashions from mainly Italy and Austria, and tall glass buildings for offices our landlord explained that have no real function. 'Making black money white', he said is what is going on; crime with drugs and corruption are all over. We did not see it! I did notice the prettiest ladies in the sub-continent though; nearly as pretty as Biya.

We went to see the National Museum to understand more about Enver Hoxha and his tyranny which lasted from 1944 to 1985. He has been called the 'mad dictator' and 'iron fist of Albania'. And indeed he was ruthless. The museum features a copy of a prison cell in which people were beaten and left to rot and die. Terrible application of what this man and his cronies ideologically stood for. Obviously I am naive but if one reads where Enver stood for he wasn't mad, though he used his iron fist. He was a pure nationalist having fought the Germans/Italians in WW2, then took power as a solid communist but subsequently made enemies with Russia, China and Yugoslavia accusing these countries (rightly so in my opinion) to abuse poor rural Albania with their imperialist motives (all these countries wanted access to the seaports, and buy local produce cheap, which Enver refused). Albania remained poor but came close to self sufficiency. The 'iron fist' modernized the backward agriculture, drove illiteracy out of the country, and installed equal rights for all in a feudal society. Not bad at all! 

BUT, by doing that, he and his spies (inside every family and in the neighbourhoods he had his paid spies) exercised terror like in North Korea and in Guinea in Africa to name similar situations. Only, Albania was inside Europe. We at school, we never understood really. After he and his party's reign finished in the late eighties there was no brake to anything wild and free. And in the museum one can see that it was a wild place from even the Roman period onwards: men on horseback and camels branding swords and old fashioned guns; steep mountain passes, bitterly cold in winter, isolated villages and a top down patriarchal society. You wink to a lady in the old days...the next day the family comes and tells you to marry her; and in case you are no game, you pay a heavy fine or loose an arm. Karl May wrote a beautiful book about this place: 'In the Land of the Skipetars', a book every boy should read. Nevertheless a beautiful country to travel in. Next time I am in Albania top of the list is a visit to the 'House of Leaves' where one can read how the sophisticated system of spying on each other worked in Hoxha's days. I am sorry but I do have a kind of a morbid taste at times to find out the big 'WHY'.

Always onwards from Tirana to Budva in Montenegro with its hot sun and sandy beaches and good food. And then onto Dubrovnik where I realise now, I should have gone to 50 years ago when I was in Yugoslavia. 

Off the walls in Dubrovnik

Indeed a world heritage site with its large city inside thick high walls, next to the Adriatic sea: a pirate's nest and formidable location to defend. I never knew that Dubrovnik was an independent country for some centuries and that its sailors went all over Africa and Europe. But when you visit the place it is easy to comprehend. And all in perfect state. Enjoy! Not to enjoy are the prices overhere in Croatia, in particular since it introduced the euro in January 2023: a cappucino, not below three euros that is for sure! When Biya went to use the restroom inside the walls they wanted to charge her two euros. We had our first rain here after which we took an overnight bus to Split and boarded a liner to the island of Vis for a few days. It was early September but still tourists moving to the isles. A quiet place, more than three hours boating from  the mainland direction Italy;  and interestingly, never occupied by the Germans in WW2. It used to be an island that lived off the finances from the Ministry of Defense and fishing. Nowadays every woman and her dog rents out rooms. We had a nice big room with a seaview and did long strolls along the shores. One may think there is a lot of fish about along the coast. Forget it; yes some, but nothing special like in Korea or in Galicia, North Western Spain. 

From Komiza village on Vis island back to Split and with the Flixbus to the nature reserve "Plivicze Jezeva' where we stayed in 'Villa Lykos' quite comfortably. WOW moments in this nature reserve, colours, waterfalls, nature, beautiful paths to wander on, fresh air. Simply gorgeous. Never to be missed. 

Plivicze waterfalls: unique! Croatia

With Dubrovnik the two absolute hits in Croatia. Further to the capital Zagreb which reminded me of Vienna and by train to Zamardi and overnight at the Balaton Lake in Hungary. Slooooow train going. Then cross the lake to Tihany village, the last 5 kms on foot up the hill toward yet another pretty apartment. We have been fortunate in finding excellent places to stay and I noticed that nearly all of our landladies had earned the money to open a B&B by working in the 'West'. Some, like Maria in Budva, for 20 years plus in Italy. Tihany is the 'princess' with its lavender fields on Lake Balaton. Indeed! Postcard vistas and Biya and I rented a bycicle and see what happened after 40 kms: she was so eager to get home that she overtook me on the last hill before the cycle shop. Would you believe that one? She said 'I knew it was the final hill and I felt inspired with God's strength'. Hallelujah and Amen. 

Biking Biya around Lake Balaton, Hungary

We spent three days in and around Tihany and then by bus to Budapest. There is so much to see and walk about in this city: 1. walk the chain bridge across the Danube 2. visit Fransz Liszt museum 3. wander through the old Jewish quarter 4. stroll in Buda around the Castle/Burg/St. Matthews Church 5. St.Stephan's Basilique and 6. the unforgettable night cruise on the Danube; table for two with a glass of bubbles! PLUS large plates of gulash soup every day! 

Selfie Szechenyi chainbridge Budapest, Hungary 

And then during a long afternoon walk in Buda my Biya became dizzy. And I realised we should/must cut down on long walks. That day we had been walking/talking for about four hours if not longer, skipping proper lunch. On average I guess we walked thoughout our trip some 5 kms each day! And much of it with a backpack. I remember the very long and hot walk from the Cricova winecellars to the main road...some five if not more kms. Really in the future we must tune down such physical toll-taking walks, especially during midday. 

Nightcruise Budapest; Guilded splendor : Parliament

Then and there in Budapest in front of the SPAR supermarket on Erzsebet Avenue we made an agreement: shopping is Anton's business. Let him do it please; he is fast and efficient and does not turn an apple around twice before taking or ditching it. Biya walked into the shop to buy one simple thing....and came out 20 minutes later. 'Lord give me patience, but be quick please'. Anyway we are both glad that shopping is Anton's discipline. In nine out of ten cases he will do just fine or good enough! 

12 September the return flight from Budapest to Eindhoven with Whizz Air. Uneventful and bus waiting for us to ride back to NS station Eindhoven and Leende home-house. We celebrated with French fries from our village cafetaria 'Klumpke' and drank large Hansa beers from Dortmund, Germany. 

A couple of addendums and special comments: 

 Food....ok we did not travel much or stayed often in the rural areas where farmer's food is the norm. But grosso modo these days there is too much of the following going around: comfort food, standing food, convenience food, easy food, finger food, fast food, holiday food, junk food, food to go. Not to speak about sliced pizza! Same look, same paper and plastic taste. I want traditional dishes please! 

The old fashioned 'Konzum' shops still exist in Croatia. Some kind of cooperative I guess. With fresh food from the farms. Whenever possible we cooked in our rooms or simple apartments. With Biya always on the look-out for noodles of course.

Yes...Jr. Walker & All Stars already in 1969 sang 'Home cookin' . And that counts! You ain't nothing if you can't cook!

 

Home cooking by Anton: Liver dish at Vis Island, Croatia

Listing all the beers we, or Anton tasted; random sequence and country of origin: 

Chisinau Beer (MOL), Birra Korca (ALB), Zlaten Dab (MAC), Tuborg (DEN), Urquell (CZE), Edelmeister (ROM), Donner (ROM), Eichbaum (ROM), Dreher (HUN), Hofbrau (GER), Steffl (HUN), Loewenbrau (GER), Soproni (HUN), Borsodi (HUN), Efes (TR), LAV (SERBIA), Becks (GER), Apativsko (SERBIA), Staropramen (CZE), Peja (ALB), Hacker-Psorr (GER), Klaas Bier (SLO), Nicziko (MON), Zipfer (AT), Elbar (ALB), Karlovacko (CRO), Ozujsko (CRO), Bergen Bier (ROM). The wines, generally the red wines are all heavy and expensive. We were surprised. All because of taxation; must be.

Interestingly and sadly, I noticed all over Romania and Moldova everywhere, even in villages a Betting Shop. Whitewashing money? What a waste of money! Then in both these countries there are more car wash installations than car (repair) shops....I would nearly say that people have their cars as absolute status and only put them on the road when cleaned. What a waste of water! 

We passed four locations that featured prominently in popular movies:

Dubrovnik streets / movies 'The Game of Thrones' 

Komiza on Vis island beach / movie 'Mama Mia' 

Ohrid Lake / movie 'Before the rain' an award winning Macedonian drama 

Plivicze nature reserve / with its landscape identical from 'Avatar' 

Never to forget: when in Zagreb, Biya ran out of one of her pills (amlodipine) and it turned out I use the same...and I had enough for an extra two weeks. Thanks God. 

6 Dec. 2023, Leende, NL

tonvanzutphen@gmail.com

The Camino Frances 2023 by Ton van Zutphen

The CAMINO Frances, and to start with the Chemin de Piemont: from Lourdes to Santiago de Compostela, and ultreia to Fisterra and Muxia.

I finished after walking some 1000 kms in 35 days in front of the Roman Catholic Cathedral in Santiago de Compostela, Spain. When I was handed over the official document/certificate by the Church authorities I did become emotional and realized that I had indeed walked a lot of miles in my shoes and had been well protected! The stamps from Lourdes added an extra cachet to this long walk: I was told I was a real pilgrim! 

Documented Proof! My finisher certificate
Lourdes - Santiago de Compostela

Obviously people ask all the time 'have you changed?', 'what do you feel after so many days of walking by yourself?', 'was it hard?, hot?, were you alone, or lonely?'. The usual known questions. In all honesty NO, I do not think I changed; I still feel the same 'Anton boy'. It was a little bit tough at times, hot and sweaty, pouring rains, but interest, commitment and pleasure were more prominent than hardship. 

Passing the Monte do Gozo 5kms from the finish
Rain and wind all over the place for Anton and Kesso Gabrielle.

And YES, many thoughts crossed my mind and I had time to wander through the stages of my life, my family, education,  friends and my relationship with God. 

A few points that I wish to make here: 

The Camino is, I strongly believe, a walk where anybody will find his or her own interests and where one only meets people who think positively, are joyful and wish you well: 'Buen Camino'. The atmosphere during the Camino is simply TOPS! 

Frequently my thoughts returned to how fortunate I have been and are now in my life. 'Did I deserve this. Did I treat people well?' I realize that although in my work and life I had my problematic encounters and some mishaps, grosso modo All turned out well. 

Now at 72 years and walking the Camino, I had every reason to be fortunate and 'feliz'. I often say to my wife Biya that I am not only a 'pensionado/jubilado', but also a 'fortunado'. And several times each day I thanked God for that. So often Biya and I, when we pray together, we start thanking Him for His blessings. In fact, and compared to many others, there is little we could ask for the two of us. During my Camino my prayers started with asking blessings and support for Biya's family, then my family, and finally for our friends. So far God keeps us healthy and active and we are surrounded by the 'good ones'. 

 And so often, I think more than 15 times, I felt that God and the angels ushered me along. I always found a bed when I needed it. While it rained at night, in the morning when I started, it stopped (except for the last week). When I was thirsty and needed a sip of water, just around the corner I found a fountain. When I needed to buy a new pair of boots, I passed through a town (Ponferrada) where there was 'Decathlon' and another sportshop. 

Never throw away old boots before you have new ones!

Many people will say 'Ah, that is all just coincidence'. Well, not me, also beacause I had told myself to look out for signs of His presence. 

And then my two daughters Valerie Clemence Christel and Kesso Gabrielle, each of them walked with me for two days. Again this was such a pleasure and gave comfort. We encouraged each other and talked and talked, and laughed. God has been a guide to instill in both of them values and norms that reflect my own. Valerie walked with me from Fromista to Sahagun (63 kms) and Kesso from Arzua to Santiago de Compostela (43 kms). What more could a father have asked for? 

Close to Calzadilla de la Cueza with Valerie Clemence

In Arzua after dinner with Kesso Gabrielle

As I walked into the building where one receives the offical certificate of a 'finisher', the computer recorded that on that day 28th October 2023, 12.45 am I was pilgrim # 339 that had arrived. Using a rough extrapolation and based on the estimate that 70% of all pilgrims walk the 'Camino Frances', one can safely say that around 300.000 pilgrims walk and finish the Camino each year. Well, perhaps only 1% really start from their homes as far away as Poland, Italy or the NL. I started from Lourdes, a holy place as well, and the first two days I only met one pilgrim (Luca from France), and the first week in France I did meet travelers/randonneurs but no one on their way to Santiago de Compostela. 

Then, coming out of the French Pyrenees Atlantiques and quite suddenly arriving at the bordertown of Saint Jean Pied de Port, hundreds of pilgrims were preparing their start of the Camino Frances the following day. This pretty town with over 50 accomodations came as a little shock to me: now I will have every day tens of pilgrims in view before me and behind me I thought. But I was mistaken as many pilgrims walk for a day or a weekend, or in stages every year, or only to Pamplona or Burgos, and so on. The road from France to Santiago is some 800  kms and it turned out that until the town of Sarria one can walk 'your own Camino'= you walk your own pace, you want to talk you can, you want to walk in silence, no probs. From Sarria, a bit over 100 kms from Santiago, the road gets quite busy, even end of October and why? Sarria is the closest town to Santiago that will get you your certificate on the condition that your pilgrim's passport / your 'credencial' / is stamped properly by the albergues/hotels where you spent the night. 

How did I proceed? Most of the times...and I walked every day...getting up between 6 and 7 am; shower, shave and use the restroom. Then if there was breakfast in the albergue or b&b, pension, hotel, I bought it with a cup of 'cafe con leche'. 

Morning cafe con leche in Pamplona

Some days I walked the first 10 kms on an empty tank as well. At times I started before daybreak but mostly when I could see the path with the indicators. Then walk at least 12 kms and stop for coffee and a tortilla (tortilla with chorizo I liked best!); continue walking another two or three hours whilst I determined the village where to stay....between 1 and 3 pm I then had found a place to stay. Checked in, quick shower and change and then hunt for a popular restaurant with a daily menu (most of these catered for pilgrims and were about 12 to 14 euros for a three course meal and a full bottle of wine). Then a good rest/siesta...a walk through the village, visit the church, perhaps buy a 'bocadillo' to eat and chat with other pilgrims. By 9pm I was in dreamland again. So I never booked any accomodation upfront. Never had great difficulty to find a place. Most were good and cheap. A few were dicy in terms of cleanliness. Now, after the Covid-era, practically all albergues provide a single-time use pillow-cover and a bedsheet. So a light sleeping bag is a must on your packing list! Dormitories housed a lot of snoarers. Grrrr! Dorms were about 12 euros a bed. A private room with bathroom as cheap as 25 euros in Pamplona and closer to Santiago a bit more expensive. I set myself a budget limit of 45 euros for a private room 'habitacion'. 

Along the 'Camino Frances', except for the 17 kms stretch between the villages of Carrion de los Condos and Cazadilla de la Cueza, West of Fromista, the distances between villages are not more than 6 kms...doable for anybody who is a pilgrim I would think! 

Sometimes I used the app 'mycaminobed' to explore where to sleep. A useful tool. 

Just a bit of history does help in the context of Santiago de Compostela. 

Saint James the Greater, de Heilige Jacobus, Saint Jacques le Majeur, San Thiago, was one of Jesus disciples and was beheaded by Herodus Agrippa in Jerusalem around the year 45 of the first century. He is credited to have been the first missionary in Spain as ordered by Saint Peter in Rome. Legends say that James had several apparitions of Maria a.o. in Tarragona and in Muxia when he felt he could not do his missionary work well enough. Most likely he spent perhaps as many as 5 to 10 years in 'the Espagnes' and finally returned to Jerusalem. How his remains were transported to Galicia in Spain remains some kind of a mystery but much scientific research on his body over the past centuries led to a confirmation by the Church that indeed the skeleton that was found by a hermit in the year 828 (again told to him in a dream!) is that of the apostle James the Greater. We shall never know the truth though.

Then a church was built in Santiago de Compostela where his remains were placed and already around the year 850 people undertook a pilgrimage to pray and ask for the forgiveness of their sins. Obviously in those days such a pilgrimage was a hazardous affair. Bandits around Cebreiro and wolves in the woods of Roncesvalles were lurking around; some pilgrims took years to arrive at their destination; many died. And then...those who made it had to return as well. 

The Camino has now developed into the most populated walking pilgrimage on the planet. Some 10 different routes exist from inside Spain, from Portugal and from France. The European Union declared it a cultural monument and supports it financially. Without such support, and the interest of Spain, many villages would be left barren and monuments like churches, chapels and way-side crosses simply left to rot. Basically, every village on the Camino Frances has stories to tell! 

Father Armand in Arudy (France): 'Vous permettez que je vous lave vos pieds'? On day two of my pilgrimage I started to use the 100 euros coffee money that Biya generously had provided! I walked from the monastry in Betharram where I had spent the night to Arudy and was told by the priest in the morning at breakfast that his clerical colleague in Arudy always had a place for any pilgrim to stay and that he, Father Armand was special. After 26 kms I arrived in Arudy and found the door of his 'auberge donativo' open with the Father (baret basque on his head) and his helper Christian welcoming me. Father Armand led me into the kitchen and simply asked 'Antonius, do you mind if I wash your feet'? I said that I did not, and he meticulously washed and dried my tired feet. The Father acted like Jesus. His eyes sparkled and he prayed while he took care of my feet. He wanted to know the names of my wife and two children and then prayed for me, my wife, family and friends aloud. Really, my feet were not only clean but all tiredness was gone and the Father and me prayed together. He then gave me a medaillon to protect me during my long walk and went on to see sick people in his parish. What an event; I never even had expected something like it in my life. 

I was the only guest in the dormitory and slept very well, hearing the river gurgling outside the open window. Then at breakfast I met a young French couple from Lille that had stayed overnight in the only room he had; they were on their way back, walking of course, from the famous Catholic youth gathering featuring Pope Francis in Lisbon. Father Armand briefly peeked into the kitchen and blessed us all handing each of us three a note in our language (translated by google) in which he was thankful for our visit! What a person! Such a saint! 

FEAR....les 'Patous'; the dogs that protect the sheep at all costs.

During my six days walk through the French Pyrenees I saw every day a few shepherds, mostly in their sixties guiding large herds of sheep. All had two kinds of dogs: 

1. the Scottish 'Border collies' that keep the herd together, guide these upon the instructions of the shepherd and bring back sheep that wander away from the herd. A wonderful sight to see these intelligent and skilled 'collies'. 

2. the French 'Patous' that actually protect the herd against wolves and bears. These 'Patous' are huge white dogs at the shoulders measuring upto 75 cms. The shepherds assure that the puppies are born inside the herd (on the farm in the winter and outside in the pastures during spring and summer). Puppies grow up for two years with the sheep and basically are kept away from the shepherds and other humans. As a result these 'Patous' associate with the herd and are prepared to protect the sheep vigorously. They do listen to the shepherd and a few times I was able to come very close to them in my conversations with these mountain shepherds.

A Patou sheep dog on the alert

I was told that in general these dogs are not agressive but I was warned to keep my distance from the herds during my walk. Then on day three close to Devil's Bridge outside Oloron Sainte-Marie it happened: I merely followed a wide dirt road; one side the forest, the other side a pasture coralled by a hedge. I saw the sheep some 30 meters away and then suddenly two 'Patous' must have smelled me or heard me and crawled underneath the hedge and came growling after me. Aiaiai, two of these big dogs together.  I immediately put my one walking stick close to my body and started to walk very slow, avoiding eye contact with these two growling monsters. They were close...not more than a meter but I kept walking very slow; they kept following me for at least 40 meters growling and ready to attack, I guessed in case I made a sudden move. 'Mon Dieu' I prayed, 'please protect me and let them go back to their sheep'. Then, as the distance between the herd and me increased the dogs let off. Jeepers! Was I scared! I immediately changed my attitude when I saw or heard a flock of sheep: 'Anton stay away of them sheep and move into the forest away from the path'. I later heard from a shepherd that often the herds are left by themselvs with the 'Border collies' and the 'Patous' for hours on end.....no shepherd to be seen. 

Convent / Hospital San Anton, close to Castrojeriz: no facilities and therefore unique; 12 October, day 19. 

The now defunct Order of Saint Anthony was established by noblemen in the 11th century in France and at one stage the Order managed more than 370 hospitals. In the Middle Ages 'St. Anthony's Fire' was a serious illness caused by fungus-contaminated grain (rye) which in many regions throughout Europe was a staple food; including the NL. It starts off with sores all over the body with convulsions and a burning sensation felt in toes, fingers, hands, knees etc. It could lead to gangrene, hallucinations and eventually a horrible death.

St. Anthony's Fire; Painting by Dutch artist Hieronymus Bosch. Around 1500

The monks in San Anton had an excellent reputation to take care of and operate those who suffered from it (mostly amputations...) and they treated suffering pilgrims as well. Hospital and convent were separated by the road (still as it is now) and for those pilgrims that did not ask for a health check or treatment there was a special niche in the wall where bread and wine was available 'to take and go'. 

Wine and bread for pilgrims to take and go; 'para llevar'.

The Order was taken over by the Benedictines in the 13th century and by 1700 the illness had somehow disappeared. Nowadays only the ruins exist and it is an excellent place to rest and stay overnight. Which I did. And I was the only pilgrim since the Convent (donativo) is without electricity, no wifi, no hot water. Clearly the modern pilgrim cannot do without a smartphone! I was alone in the simple dormitory and had an excellent dinner outside under the stars with the volunteers Peter and Antonino who run the place. 

Ruins of Convent/Hospital San Anton
Now albergue donativo

Xacabeo and his legend in Muxia: la 'Costa da Morte'. In the Galician dialect and writing San Thiago is called Xacabeo. My last 10 days of the whole trip I walked through the rain across Galicia from the East to the coast; to the infamous 'Costa da Morte' that gets its name because of the many shipwrecks in the past 2000 years. And indeed, I encountered a few heavy storms with howling winds myself. Already the last 6 days before entering Santiago it was every day 'poncho day'. On and on it kept raining.

 I had a few days on my hand before taking the plane back to Charleroi in Belgium and therefore I took the bus to Fisterra ( finis terra = the end of the world as seen some 1000 years ago). I walked up to the famous lighthouse and decided to give it a try and walk the 55 kms from Cape Fisterra via the village of Lires to Muxia.

Cape Fisterra

Two days later I entered Muxia along its pretty beach and walked up to the port where there is a statue indicating that at that special place nearly 2000 years ago Saint James was present to work as a missionary. Legend has it that he felt disappointed for lack of success and that Maria appeared to him and his fellow missionaries in a boat approaching the beach and encouraging them not to give up! 

I was surprised in a positive way that so many pilgrims continued from Santiago to Fisterra and eventually Muxia.....The End of the Road and it was for Saint James himself kind of the end. I guess he must have seen that he had arrived at the very Western end of the Roman Empire. 

I believe I talked, mostly briefly, with at least 150 fellow pilgrims on the road. Then there is a bunch of pilgrims with whom the talk became longer and more detailed about all kinds of subjects; we exchanged names: The seven Brazilian ladies whom I met in France and who walked from Carcassonne to Saint Jean Pied de Port. One evening we all stayed in the same dormitory at Hospital St. Blaise.

The ladies from Belo Horizonte and me at dinner/ all of us >65 years

Luca (FR), Vittorio (IT), Szandor (HU), Joshua (FR), Sabine (DE), Irmgard (DE), Mischa (DE), So (JP), Nancy (CA), Matt (US), Eun Sang (KR), Christian (FR), Javier x 2 (SP), Robin (US), Celine (FR), Alessandra (IT), Serge (FR), Cecilia (SE), Carlos (BR), Stefan (CH), Peter (CZ), Antonino (IT) / those that I do recall. A couple of them I saw on the road again and again.

With Javier and Robin
early morning in El Espinosa de Camino
close to village of Ages, day 16

 A review of my daily schedule: 

23 September day 0  Arrival Lourdes from Bordeaux / FRANCE

24 September day 1   Lourdes to Betharram 18 kms / Chemin de Piemont in FRANCE
25 September day 2  Betharram to Arudy 26 kms
26 September day 3  Arudy to Oloron Sainte-Marie 29 kms
27 September day 4  Oloron Sainte-Marie to Hospital St. Blaise 24 kms
28 September day 5  Hospital St. Blaise to Mauleon 18 kms
29 September day 6  Mauleon to St. Juste Ibarre 29 kms
30 September day 7  St. Juste Ibarre to St. Jean Pied de Port 25 kms
1 October day 8        St. Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles 25 kms / entering SPAIN on Camino Frances
2 October day 9        Roncesvalles to Zabaldika 35 kms
3 October day 10      Zabaldika to Pamplona 12 kms
4 October day 11      Pamplona to Lorca 38 kms
5 October day 12      Lorca to Sansol 39 kms
6 October day 13      Sansol to Navarrete 33 kms
7 October day 14      Navarrete to Azofra 24 kms
8 October day 15      Azofra to Belorado 34 kms
9 October day 16      Belorado to Ages 28 kms
10 October day 17    Ages to Tardajos 30 kms
11 October day 18    Tardajos to Convent San Anton 28 kms
12 October day 19    Convent San Anton to Fromista 26 kms
13 October day 20    Fromista to Cazadilla de la Cueza 39 kms / with Valerie Clemence
14 October day 21    Cazadilla de la Cueza to Sahagun 25 kms / with Valerie Clemence
15 October day 22    Sahagun to Mansilla de las Mulas 37 kms
16 October day 23    Mansilla de las Mulas to La Virgin del Camino 26 kms
17 October day 24    La Virgin del Camino to Villares de Orbigo 27 kms
18 October day 25    Villares de Orbigo to Santa Catalina de Somoza 28 kms
19 October day 26    Santa Catalina de Somoza to El Acebo de San Miguel 26 kms
20 October day 27    El Acebo de San Miguel to Camponaraya 28 kms
21 October day 28    Camponaraya to Trabadelo 27 kms
22 October day 29    Trabadelo to Alto do Poio 31 kms
23 October day 30    Alto do Poio to Sarria 32 kms
24 October day 31    Sarria to Portomarin 23 kms
25 October day 32    Portomarin to Palas de Rei 25 kms
26 October day 33    Palas de Rei to Arzua 29 kms
27 October day 34    Arzua to Pedrouzo 21 kms / with Kesso Gabrielle
28 October day 35   Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela 22 kms / with Kesso Gabrielle / Arrival in Santiago de Compostela
29 October day   36   Bus Santiago de Compostela to Fisterra town
30 October day   37   Cape Fisterra to Lires 28 kms
31 October day   38   Lires to Muxia 25 kms
1 November day 39  Bus from Muxia to Santiago de Compostela
2 November day 40  Visit Santiago de Compostela
3 November day 41  Flight Santiago de Compostela to Charleroi, train to Hamont and car to Leende = home in the NL.

Now I have been to all major Roman Catholic Pilgrim sites: 

1. Bethlehem and Jerusalem; where Jesus was born and crucified 

2. Rome / the Vatican; seat of the first Pope Saint Peter and capital of the Holy See 

3. Lourdes; in 1858 Maria appeared to Bernadette Soubirous 

4. Fatima in Portugal; Maria appeared to three shepherd children in 1917 

5. Santiago de Compostela; burial place of the remains of Saint James the Greater = San Thiago 

6. Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe in Mexico City; Mary appeared to Juan Diego in 1531.

Overlooking the Pyrenees from France

The End of this Camino Frances; hopefully next year with Biya the Camino Primitivo from Oviedo to Santiago de Compostela...some 340 kms. 

 A detailed and excellent book, published in 2005 with illustrations is: 

 Les Chemins de Saint-Jacques de Compostelle (in French) ISBN 2-911515-21-8 

www.msm-editions.fr 

Arrival Cathedral Santiago de Compostela 

PS1      My backpack weighed 6.3 kgs without food/water. I traveled with only a bottle of half a liter of water. Food can be bought everywhere. So I rarely had more than 7kgs on my back!

Packing at home came to 6.3 kgs

PS2    How much did I spent?  Roughly for flights/train/bus ; lodging and food and small incidentals,

plus new boots over a period of  42 days. 

My estimation roughly calculated comes to 2400 euros. 

And I lived very well!!

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