a few more days cruising around Lake Galilee / mid November 2012
TonvanZutphen@gmail.com
Perfect timing in terms of the weather with cool mornings and a max. temp. of 28 degrees C. early afternoons. Although the region is not as green as during the spring it felt alive and many pastures and woods gave off that the smell of a comfortable green walking environment. No rains at all...So a great walking experience although I only met one (1) other Jesus trail walker. Definitely the trail is not a popular destination. The fact that my walk took place in the midsts of a sudden shoot-out conflict between the Israeli govt. and the Hamas govt. in Gaza immediately led to cancellations of bookings in the hostels along the route from Israeali schools. It was easy to find accomodation; inexpensive with good food and close to the trail. I began at the Fauzi Azar Inn in the old town in Nazareth which I can recommend for its helpful staff and well organised sleeping arrangement. Stayed in a dorm of 6 which reminded me of my India-trek days back in the seventies. All cozy, international atmosphere, reasonably comfortable and clean.
The trail itself starts with a brisk climb out of Nazareth and unfortunately the markings then disappear at the edge of town where a new road is being constructed. Fair enough..one can find the way back by looking at a map and then crossing over rough terrain to the far away blacktop. But this happened a couple of times (around Mashad toward Cana, around Nakhal Arbel and very seriously in the Zaki lagoon area south of Bethsaida / on the north-east side of Lake Galilee). Clearly the marking sites need to be maintained; a few volunteers should be able to do this, hence avoiding unnecessary wanderings by walkers. I lost my way around Nakhal Arbel and wandered between Mount Nitai and Mount Arbel for a few hours through meadows with bulls/cows, a lot of high barbed wire and it was getting dark by 16.30 hours already....I just made it to the comfortable B&Bhome of the Shavit family in the Moshav Arbel kibbutz area; in time before pitchdark.
The Arbel cliffs area....how beautiful the views over the Lake Galilee! How exciting to walk and climb around the cliffs, going up and down. How dangerous this can be after a rain......I carried a 7 kgs Vaude backpack and in the beginning felt ill at ease to climb down the cliff using metal handholds and holding iron strings attached to the rocks. From the top of Arbel cliff to the Lake Galilee is 400 metres of denivellation. In the end I decided this was the best part of the trail so a few days later I returned and walked up the cliffs as well. Having arrived on the top I met with a few school groups...kids on average 12 years young with their teachers, a few parents and a security officer. I could not believe that Israeali youth just clambers up and down these cliffs....a bit of vertigo, a slip of the feet....one could fall 300 mettres.... In Switzerland parents /teachers would never ever agree to do this..simply too dangerous!
Overall the trail is easy to do........though one does not come across villages anymore...Cana is now a town of over 15,000 people. The urbanisation process is visible throughout Israel. The kibbutzim one can only see from the outside (all fenced)...many historical places mentioned in the Bible and detailed on www.jesustrail.com are isolated spots (perhaps better this way). I felt that interaction with those who live in Galilee is therefore limited to the hostels where I stayed. Nevertheless the idea to walk for days through an area where Jesus has spent years as well is quite some imagination ...that comes back all the time. One late afternoon after a swim in the Lake at Kerei Deshe hostel's beach I felt that enourmous peaceful feeling of a tired body, warmed by the sun, at a spot that is serene and beautiful with birds in the reeds and a breeze just perfect..... All by myself as well.
The trail certainly provides you with time to think but make sure you watch where you step as the road is practically everywhere full of small to medium sized pebbles and stones.
Landmarks in the area to visit include the Mount of Beatitudes ( a 2 kms walk from Tabgha), The Zippori national park (with a detailed Roman town), the synagogue at Capernaum, the horns of Hittin area where the Crusaders lost a decisive battle against Saladin, the area where the Jordan river in all its beauty flows into the Lake Galilee, Mount Bereniki south of Tiberias..and Tiberias itself; a bit of tourist twon but cosmopolitan and friendly with a cafe/terrasse culture where it is good sipping a beer in the eve.
Some more impressions and stats:
- In five and a half days I did 210,000 steps. A lot of small ones because of the hilly terrain. I guess I did around 110 kms alltogether
- The trail itself from Nazareth to Capernaum is easy to do in 3 days, starting at 8 morning and finishing at 4 afternoon with half an hour rest. This will not allow for the visits to specific historical spots as I did mention above. So if you go easy...take 4 days
- I walked on Lowa Renegade, boots I bought 3 years ago...I recommend the next one up ..meaning stronger/sturdier soles because of the stones that are a visible part of the pavement littered for perhaps 25% of the trail
- Very few walkers/hikers on the trail, I did not even see other hikers on the famous 'Israel trail' either
- The feeling about security is good...days are short so start to walk early
- A good breakfast in the morning with a couple of energy bars and liter of water will get you through the day during this time of the year. All very pleasant.
