Ton van Zutphen on Mount Olympus in Greece / August 2015

Ton van Zutphen on Mount Olympus in Greece / August 2015

Ton van Zutphen and the Mount OLYMPUS range in Greece…up and away to its 2917 metres peak and summit Mytikas: August 2015  / how to do it the easy way!!!!

 

As part of a wider itinerary during this summer leave, MSF and I decided to walk up and get to the summit with an arduous climbing and clambering of close to one hour and a half, for the very very last stretch to the Greek blue and white flag that marks the highest point of the country.

Interestingly….we had expected that:
 

1. This major mountain ascent, apparently the most popular of all mountains in Greece would be full of mountaineers, backpackers, adventurers; ….nothing like that: even in August when the chance for bad, rainy weather is relatively small. In Litohoro town we saw only one mountain gear shop...and it was closed. No business coz' of the economic slump?

2. Contrary to what all these travel related booking sites want you to believe: there is place enough in all the refuges on the Mt. Olympus. In refuge ‘A’ (called Agapitos at 2060 meters altitude) we were one night the only visitors to use a sleeping hall with 18 bunk beds (only very cold water to shower…straight from the glacier).

3. Equally..no need to rush once you get to the scenic town of Litohoro…have a good sleep first at the hotel/auberge ‘Etinea’, overlooking the picturesque central square, and start walking the next morning; get going not later than 9am. Alternatively from Litohoro, you take a bus or hitchhike to Prionia (get out at the taverna site) and start walking before 4pm to refuge 'A'

4. Some routes indicate a suggested time…again according to travel books / but we took much longer although we walked without long rests / so be aware of positive marketing efforts. Our rhythm was 75 minutes walk and 5-10 minutes rest

 

Getting around and to the top…one walks through a National Park that was established in 1936! So take your water, there are no litterbins…one tries to have a zero eco print. All is kept clean; food and drink can be bought at reasonable prices at the refuges which are stocked up by mule trains. Last stop really during the summer to stock up safe and potable water is at the Prionia taverna...but bottled water can be bought in all the refuges.

 

A few weeks before this trip I consulted several websites but could not define exactly the most logical route to the top…nor exactly the time needed to walk/climb. Indeed there are several alternative ascents to get to the summit. We walked the one, many mountaineers use in case they start from the village of Litohoro. This route ‘for dummies’ as elaborated below can safely be assumed as the less dangerous one…and by the way seems also to be the most beautiful one!

So..why not start in Litohoro, a nice friendly town 10 kms from the sea; apparently with sandy beaches…that we did not visit. From the train station take a cab and/or walk a few kms to where the bus stops…regular buses into Litohoro town.

I recommend to stay in hotel ‘Etinea’ (same name as the river that originates on Mt. Olympus): good value for money, rooms with a view, nice family atmosphere; you can leave your luggage safely here.  Have a meal at ‘MezeMeze' in the village, where Costas the chef served us a very tasty liver dish with mustard sauce, accompanied by the day’s fresh sardines catch and Greek people’s wine ‘Retsina’. Go say hello to George who runs a small tourist shop across the street from the Greek Orthodox Church. George is always there, always helpful, knows everything and everybody; sells more than you would ever think of at bargain prices (he looked for Zorba the Greek, English edition…and could not find it in his shop..haha). Curiously, George like many city dwellers has only seen Mt. Olympus from afar…he has never been further than Prionia…that is ‘by car’ he told me. I am afraid you have to believe me when you want exact knowledge about how to go to the top. Even the staff in the tourist info centre had not done the climb.  MSF and I spent gorgeous time in this pretty and relaxing town. The Church is so well maintained and open throughout the day. The bell tower is impressive and children were playing around it. Couples hugging each other  on the benches under trees, while elderly Greek ladies dressed in black hurried into the Church. Remember it never hurts to pray before the climb!!

 Here is the preferred ASCENT with some comments to cheer you up:

A view of Litohoro and  part of the Mt. Olympus National Park 

Day 1: 

Litohoro-Prionia-Refuge 'A' / Agapitos

We took 6 hours to Prionia;  than a bit less than 4 hours to arrive at refuge 'A' (total over 20kms).

From Litohoro to Prionia start at the hotel ‘Etinea’ and keep going once you enter the National Park….feels good with some heavy walking…up and down; lots of forest but no restos …the 7 bridges one has to cross before arriving at the Prionia taverna…’took forever’. I was carrying a pack of 12 kgs and it was sort of warm, but not sticky and no insects. An array of beautiful mountain flower welcomed us...what a chance to see these as summer is the best season for blooming flowers on Mt. Olympus. Ahhh.. this refreshing fragrance of the pines....cleans the lungs! Nevertheless the track was challenging: up and down is not the natural habitat for a Dutchman ( we are good at running and cycling against the wind in the polders...haha). MSF did much better. A good meal with the obligatory Greek salad and a lovely cheer-up from  MSF at the taverna and we decided to continue and walk to refuge ‘A’….another 4 hours 90% of the path up and up and up….

That was a heavy day for both of us, although we are considered to be fit. The refuge had good food, drinks and it was great to wash the sweat off; with very cold water...definitely less than 10 degrees C.. from a piping system that was connected to the glacier 400 meters up the track. 

Day2:

Refuge 'A' –Skala peak and restpoint – Mytikas (confirmed to be the less dangerous ascent) / then back to Skala, on to the Skolia summit at 2911 metres) and back to refuge 'A'.

The ascent to Skala from the refuge is very scenic and took us well over 2 hours;  all upwards with a stone track less easy than day 1. We had splendid views with darting deer and a herd of wild horses; and  followed a Greek walker called Adonis in his tracks. I had left most of my luggage at the refuge and felt more confident……anyway at the sight of the Mytikas summit I was less assured…I have climbed a bit ‘on all fours’ but not for a very long time…and all around Mytikas summit there are NO safety facilities. Indeed if you slip..and fall…that’s it. You’ll be in heaven or hell earlier than any Greek rescue team will get to you! It took us climbing and clambering over 1 hour to get to the Mytikas top from the Skala restpoint. WOW, I felt pretty good! MSF carrying less weight than I, and not as tall and also more experienced…had a distinctive advantage; wonderful to have a guide to trust and follow! We made it and arrived around noon.  After the usual pics. the descent was also at times scary although the markings where to climb and descent (the latter on all fours again plus your bum!) are very visible and spot on! Back to Skala and then for an easy walk up to the Skolia summit just 8 meters lower than Mytikas but a straightforward path;  followed by a long slow descent back to refuge 'A', where we arrived around 5pm. The descent can be painful for the knees…walking sticks are one’s best friend!

Another heavy day of more than 10 hours walking on Mt. Olympus! Lots of clouds, rain threatened a bit...with rumblings of thunder suggesting that Zeus was moving around with his entourage of gods, muses and Nike,...the goddess of victory. We were indeed treated with majestic vistas…throughout. This landscape has not changed  by the  human hand at all…pure nature. No wonder the ancient Greeks decided this was the place that was inhabited by Zeus and his gods and goddesses.

 

Here are a few do’s and don’ts for the last difficult / possibly dangerous stretch from Skala to Mytikas:

    
          Use good boots with a deep profile on the soles
          Strictly follow the markings : yellow with a red circle
          I had cyclists’ padded gloves on…very very useful
          Have your clothes and backpack fit tightly ; I would consider a pack of 4 kgs as the max.
          It can be hot, and/or cold…use sun cream continuously / plus cap / plus a windbreaker
          Take one litre of water per person plus some energy bars

           

         Don’t climb when the weather is bad…if it rains never go!
         The climb is full of loose stones and is slippery at times; don’t go fast; just go steady
         If you have a problem with heights…don’t do it
         Don’t take your walking sticks / leave them at Skala…many people leave baggage there
         If you are already tired…wait until you feel strong again / no adult beverages!

Sunglasses...yes or no...? I did not because it reduces the clarity of vision I needed.

Please note finally that ...climbing and using this route: anybody reasonably fit with a firm foot can do this. We saw children not older than 8 do it....admittedly they were born in the French Pyrenees.


                    

This still was taken at Kalakos refuge at 2710 meters, a lunch stop for us (with lentils soup!) on our descent to the Muses valley. Look at that yummy cracker of a summit called Mytikas in the back.   Looks inviting to the real 'pro' ; slightly threatening  to mountain kids like me.

The preferred DESCENT looks like this:

Day 3:

From Refuge 'A' to Refuge 'B' (Apostolides)  and/or 'C' (Kalakos) and then walk via the Muses valley to refuge ‘Petrosgourka'..a good walk of 7 hours plus…easy to do after day 1 and 2.  A bit up and up the first 2 hours...then descending gradually.....

One crosses a glacier and can have a good lunch at ‘Kalakos’ refuge  (name of the first Greek who ascended Mytikas with 2 Swiss mountaineers in 1928). Then a stroll through the Muses valley, where Zeus used to be entertained. More easy walking through pine forests and beech forests...greens all over now! Until arriving at the very wonderful refuge ‘Petrosgourka’ where Nectarios and Thomas made us a wonderful meal and breakfast. The Greek omelette was the best omelette I had this year...fresh eggs, onions, feta, olives, bread and the Greek Nescafe (to which I got totally used to).  

It was in this refuge we realised we had lived and really inhaled the atmosphere of the Mount Olympus area fully. Life in all its fullness. God was clement: our weather had been perfect and the walk/climb awesome. Vistas that remain in our minds. And…we managed the dangerous part very well.  A bit of beer and wine after that to celebrate.

 

Day 4:

Starting just after 9 in the morning from the Refuge a nearly 4 hours descent to the main road at Gortsia; we decided to hitchhike and car nr.  6 car stopped and took us to Litohoro village…in time for rest, laundry chores and general clean up. In the early evening dinner at Meze-Meze with a big jug of draft beer…!

 

So…..if you decide to climb Mount Olympus you could do what MSF and I did…it is a trip never to forget: good for the heart and soul, for the body and spirit; and for your health! Tiring yes, challenging, for some. True, the Gods on Mt. Olympus blessed this trip with fine weather, nature abound and feelings of being in the mountains that are never to forget. One can only accept the mountain; its beauty, its smells, its panoramas and its people. All those we met were positive travellers and workers. We felt that all of these had chosen to be on this particular mountain of Olympus. And so were we MSF and TVZ.

We recommend it!

Yours faithfully,

Anton/MSF