Impressions, feelings, facts, ..pointers...and thanks
The Cathedral of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception is where I went for Sunday mass, often with my friend Paul S. A common red brick building, and typical for French tropical colonies, it stands out along the 'Avenue des Martyrs'. In these dark days masses are well attended and the priests continuously preach for more dialogue between Christians and Muslims, and tell people to forgive. It is a large church with good aeration... I mostly sat where the big side doors let in gusts of refreshing and cool air. I am always apprehensive of what has become a devastating act in parts of Africa: terrorists (like Boko Harem that is now operational in CAR as well)) throwing grenades into churches. And this is just what happened a few weeks in the Fatima church in Bangui...killing 30 church attendees. Lots of rituals and endless singing in this Cathedral. The choir even performed Halleluja by Handel during Easter. Mass provided peace and reflection for a few hours; every week. To be recommended!
Governance / heads of state / Bokassa / Samba-Panza
The Father of this country who everybody adores and remembers well was Barthelemy Boganda, a catholic priest turned politician. Bangui is full of sites honoring him (street names, the national stadion, statutes, parks, schools, beauty salons, books about him at the book stalls etc.). He was destined to become the first President of the country after serving as the Prime Minister of the declared autonomous CAR...but then died in a mysterious plane crash flying into Bangui. Later..traces of explosives were found in the wreckage. The French government is likely to know more..but may not have been involved as Boganda had all the support from De Gaulle. Then came independence in 1960 and here is the list of Heads of State:
David Dacko 1960-1966
Jean Bedel Bokassa 1966-1979 (crowned himself as Emperor)
David Dacko 1979-1981
Andre Kolingba 1981-1993
Ange-Felix Patasse 1993-2003
Francis Bozize 2003-2013
Michael Djotodia 2013-2014
Alexandre Ferdinand Nguendet 10 - 23 Jan 14 (acting Head of State of Transition)
Catherine Samba-Panza as of 23 Jan 14 ( Head of State of Transition)
Bokassa was the infamous one; well known in France because of his gift of diamonds to Giscard d'Estaing (who the latter illegally accepted). No doubt this contributed to Giscard not being re-elected for a 2nd term as French President in 1981. Bokassa crowned himself Emperor (Napoleon style) and spent 20 million USD, which was one third of the CAR's annual budget on the festivities. The party consumed 60,000 bottles of Champagne and Bourgogne and two of the six white horses (imported from France) drawing Bokassa's carriage died from the heat on the spot. A grotesque event. Nevertheless the older man in the Bangui street now confirms that it was Bokassa who built many of the roads and was able to assure regular payment for the civil servants (facts people do not forget).
Previous Heads of State Bozize and Djotodia are strongly involved in current politics, and are respectively Anti-Balaka (A-B)and Seleka (SLK) sponsors...both are incriminated by the ICCourt in The Hague but living resp. in Uganda and Benin..or moving about.
I had the opportunity to meet the current President Ms. Samba-Panza, exchange a few words with her...and was close to see her speak. In a situation where any political decision is a balancing act...she is hanging in there. She is encouraged to take more decisions...but I know very well there is no instrument (state or otherwise) to operate or implement these. In fact the country is (badly) run by the international peace keepers and the aid industry. Insecurity reigns over most of the CAR's territory where A-B and SLK fighters and thugs confront each other.
MISCA, Sangaris, EUFOR, and now the large UN Peacekeeping Force (MINUSCA) to enter the country as of September. There is no alternative to an international peacekeeping force but the way this is managed is fraught with serious challenges...the International Mission to establish Security/Safety in CAR (MISCA) consists at present of about 5200 elements under the auspices of the African Union (and I believe the rich countries provide much funding for this). It is in fact against AU regulations that bordering countries participate in such missions...whereas in the CAR case...all bordering countries except the Sudan's have contributed to this force. For a country the size of France + Belgium 5000 + soldiers is not enough. Here is another guesstimate: 5200 minus 300 (on rest/recuperation/short leave) minus 100 (sick leave) minus 1000 doing paperwork, minus 500 protecting banks, private companies, ministries etc. leaves how many for real protective action for the CAR civilians..? Right.. perhaps just over 3000 soldiers are actively involved in terrain related work. Insignificant.
Part of my job to establish the office and programme for 'double wee ache ache' WHH / Welthungerhilfe / ONG Allemand was to attend meetings. One of these I will never forget as it involved a government minister and the representative of a large UN agency. In fact the meeting started with a review of progress of an African Development Bank sponsored project in which 3 large UN agencies participated. All the Directors of these agencies were seated in the boardroom of the Ministry...it was all about a small project of less than 1 million USD. Although not all the paperwork had been finalized one of the Directors refused to commit and reverted to his hierarchy in the UN system. All the others mentioned they remained interested and were able to provide a solution...this went on and off with the Minister really being patient, diplomatic and understanding....In the end we all felt that this one UN agency hid behind bureaucratic arguments...and then the Minister exploded: 'you, and then told him by his name and continued: 'vous m'embettez'...if you do not want to support this country I will make sure you will leave'. WOW, this was unreal. None of the other Directors blinked an eye..and after the meeting everyone disappeared immediately. I was shocked...if this would happen to me I would consider my mission to have become a disaster.
The work in Bangui was relatively straightforward and I enjoyed having my three good colleagues alongside me: Ruediger, Florian and Stefan. We had a curfew as of 19 hours during the week and 20 hours in the weekend..so little more to do than work, rest, read and sleep. I finally read much in my book: Der grosse Krieg (14-18) by Prof. Herfried Muenkler (to be recommended) Welthungerhilfe is there to stay for many years and I hope to return once again...who knows.
WHH Bangui office team from left to right: Simplice, Antonius, Oscar, Catherine, Gisele, Ingrid, Ruediger, Gaston, Jonathan / seated are Christophe and Vivianne.
1. building a chicken coop with a rooster that crows every morning exactly at 04.45 hours to let me know it was time to start a new day
2. creating a small mobile resto called 'Chez Tabitha' for our national staff just across the road. On the menu specialties like viande boucannee and poisson fume with gonzo (manioc)
3. Planted 10 banana trees and 3 avocado pear trees (according to African custom, the person who plants a fruit tree always has first decision rights on the harvest!)
4. Many evenings after work we sat and drink beer in the Cave de la Cite, the local hole in the wall beer buvette just opposite our office at 'Relais Sica'. Choices include brands like Castel, Muetzig, Mocaf, Beaufort, Isenberg, Primus, Guinness, 33 Export; depending on arrivage!
5. And make friends with David (FdM) and Etienne (FAO)
A great 2 months....no regrets and the Central African Republic and its people were all good to me. In particular our national staff were so courageous to work long hours and do all sorts of tasks for the first time in their lives! Impressive.
tonvanzutphen@gmail.com
http://www.welthungerhilfe.de/informieren/projekte/projekt/zentralafrikanische-republik.html#!/b2004/ / interview with Ton
