Ton van Zutphen / Gerard van der Meeren cycling along
the Mosel and the Rhine in Germany: this ride should be on all cyclists ‘to
do‘ list / 21-27 October 2019
Friends and Readers, nothing very exciting happened
during this trip but a couple of things made it memorable. Here they are:
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Our first dinner and breakfast in Perl at Central Hotel
--- The weather was unusually mild, often sunny in the
afternoons and the mornings crisp and dotted with clouds. Some afternoons I
rode with just my short cycling pants and I could actually have tried riding
short-sleeved. Under the sun temperatures went up to approx. 25 degrees C. during
the last 3 days. This beautiful weather impacted on how we perceived the colors
of the autumn environment: trees, meadows, vineyards, and both rivers looking
like sparkling water; and of course the people we met: all of these happy about
this ‘Indian summer’
--- The route, and particularly along the Mosel, has
been a walking attraction for about 150 years as one the prime traveler’s
destinations in early German tourism. Obviously this is linked to the natural
beauty of the area with its 250 kms of wine growing areas on both hilly sides
of the meandering river, combined with easy and relaxed walking. When cycling
became the norm for everyone after World War II, the paths along the Mosel were
upgraded and now provide the ultimate sensation in cycling fun combined with sterling
scenery and limitless opportunities to stay in small villages with plenty of famous
local Riesling wines (including Piesporter, and Zeller Schwarze Katz), and the
world class regional Bitburg beer.
--- Gerard is 65 and I have 68 on the teller; we both
had mountain bikes and limited luggage (as usual Gerard thought he was driving
all the way to Southern Spain and with approx. 20 kgs. carried at least 2 times
more weight than I). We had all the usual necessities like repair kit, warm
clothes, band-aid. I thought I would/could have serious problems (with my left
knee..I had bursitis as a student) because I did not train at all…whereas
Gerard already has clocked up more than 5000 kms. this year. Anyway….EVERYBODY,
and this with a normal day-to-day bike (E-bike also!), can do this trip. We had
agreed not to ride more than 70 kms a day and this turned out to be the right
quantum. Nevertheless we both ended up with a sore bud….I guess to have an iron
bud, one has to cycle on a daily basis for about 3 weeks…. Health wise this was
a perfect week: dry and clean air, far and
green views that please and strengthen the eyes, bodies in motion for
about 4 to 5 hours daily pedaling
---- On both
sides of the Mosel and Rhine there are wide cycling paths and 90% of these are
tarred and very smooth; we only took 10kms. of biking on a forest track that
was still of reasonable quality (just a bit hard on the bud), following the
South-bank between Cochem and Treis-Karden. Part of the beauty was also the serenity
around us cycling …hardly any other walkers or riders around; no cars allowed;
our nearly permanent eye contact with the Mosel and such, often very close to
it, remained a virtual and skin-felt sensation throughout the day. Definitely
in the summer from late June to end of August there is more traffic but with
its roughly 270 kms. from Perl/Schengen to Koblenz (Deutsches Eck, where Mosel
and Rhine join up) this Mosel route
offers an active, rejuvenating and wholesome experience for body and mind.
Along the Rhine from Koblenz to Cologne the scenery
loses some of its ‘bite’ because the Rhine is twice as wide (more than 125
meters ) as the Mosel, less forests, hardly any vineyards and along the Rhine,
industries, harbors and logistic companies have changed the scenery. On the
other hand seeing the river traffic is interesting and the huge bridges
crossing the Rhine remain an impressive sight.
---- Crucial was also that Gerhard and I started and
finished this 430 kms cycling event in good spirits. We have been friends since
roughly 1975 and he visited me in far-away places like Bangladesh and Kenya. During
this 7 days road cycling trip we talked like friends, ate like family and drank
like brothers.
Some logistics and advise:
Day 1 From Luxembourg town to Perl. Actually we started our trip from
Daloensdelle 34, Overijse (Belgium) Gerard’s wonderful cuckoo’s nest with Annie,
at 9am on the dot.
A 5kms ride to La Hulpe railway station / then
Ottignies, change to Arlon to Luxemburg town station by train…and hopping on
our bikes straight on the left coming out of the ‘gare’ crossing the bridge
toward France / direction Thionville. Small villages pass like Contern, Dalheim,
Bous and Remich toward Schengen in Luxemburg. Crossing the bridge there into
Perl, Germany…staying at Central Hotel 2 kms up the hill, and having wild boar
and deer for dinner. 50kms…..we were tired and slept at 8pm.
Day 2 From Perl to Mehring. Easy ride
in the morning towards Nittel (People arrive as a Guest and leave as a Friend
is written on a house along the railway station), then on to Konz, and Trier,
the oldest town in Germany, always beautiful to pass through and take a
snapshot at the Porta Nigra.
After a brown bag lunch at ‘Backwerk’, switching
to the North-side of the Mosel toward
Schweich and stay in Mehring. We stopped in Longuich and visited the
impressive site of a Roman villa / these Romans must have had a good time here
with Bacchus taking them through the late afternoons and evenings….Wein, Weib
und Gesang.
We checked into ‘Zum Kellerstuebchen’ a typical
traditional small village hotel with bar and restaurant…full of workmen at 4pm
when we arrived. Recommended. Gerard was
offered a job by the local builder making upto 20 euros an hour…he refused
outright / haha! We did 85 kms. that day.
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Roughly translated this means....In wine is the wine farmer's efforts ; in wine is sun, care and sweat; in wine is creation, hope and fear; wine captures us through the year; we people have become part of wine and vine; our life is mirrored in the wine |
Day 3 From Mehring via Neumagen and Bernkastel Kues to Traben Trarbach;
weather getting better all the time. Next time I want to overnight in
Neumagen…one of the prettiest towns we passed through.
Above the images of a typical though famous Mosel village : Piesport...wine from this village is known as '' a drop of Gold '.
Approaching Traben
Trarbach the Mosel becomes strikingly beautiful with its famous bends. We
checked into ‘Zum Anker’ and had our only fattening ‘Ankerburger’ meal of the
whole trip. In winter time Traben
Trarbach must be empty…already at 9pm the Germans had pulled up the sidewalks.
Distance accomplished 72 kms.
Day 4 From Traben Trarbach to Hatzenport (80 kms). Again a great ride passing
through Zell (where we had Kaffee and Kuchen at the same spot as I did with
Biya only 3 months ago), then Bullay following the South-bank; crossing the
bridge and onto Bremm, Nehren (passing the campside there!! -Anton and Biya
were there also!) and finally Cochem a town that at least 15 million Dutchmen
must have visited over the past 100 years.
Aahhh…do eat at the ‘Metzgerei’- Butcher’s Walter
Schmitt in Poltersdorf at the entry of the village…We had amongst others smoked
wild boar sandwich and ‘Leberkaese’; the owner himself hunts the game and
prepares it!
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| Bill for 1 coffee, one smoked wild boar sandwich and one Bitburg beer came to 3.97 euros / roughly 4.5 US dollars |
From Cochem we continued on the South-side (bumpy and
bud-hurting forest road, so next time take the North-side) to Treis Karden,
crossed the Mosel again and arrived in Hatzenport…tiny village with a perfect
stay at ‘Weinhaus Ibald’, where we had our one and only dry and smooth red
Dornfelder bottle of wine (still 14 euros in the restaurant although the owner
is a ‘Winzer’ and makes his own wine). An average 1 liter bottle of good dry
white Riesling wine will cost you around 5 euros max. on the street in any of
the villages.
Day 5 From Hatzenport to Remagen. We passed through Winningen, another
must-visit and must-stay excellent wine producing village next time, where the
streets are covered with hanging grapevines.
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| Above and below: Winningen village and vineyards |
Arriving in Koblenz at 11am
crossing the Schumacher bridge, we were blown away by the sight of the
‘Deutches Eck’. Mosel and Rhine join up here, overviewed by a huge statue of
Emperor Wilhelm on horseback, with the castle on the East-bank of the Rhine.
Hundreds of battles must have been fought over this strategic site…from the
early Gothic tribes to the Bavarians, the Romans, Charles the Great, Napoleon,
and the Allies against Hitler to name a few.
Now the scenery changed along the Rhine riding
North…vineyards had disappeared and some harbors popped up, where the cyclists
had to give way…we finished in Remagen and saw the still standing pillars of
the famous bridge. In early 1945 this was a crucial bridge for the Allies to
cross and advance into Hitler’s heartland and onto Hannover and finally Berlin
where the Russians arrived first. Historians argue that if the Americans had
arrived first most likely we would never have had the post-war East block….In
Remagen we stayed in Hotel Pinger, and had a great buffet dinner and plenty of
Koblenzer beer. Recommended place to stay! 74 kms. that day.
Day 6 From Remagen to Cologne via Bad
Godesberg and Bonn. Under the still warm sun this was a piece of
cake….we rode West of the river into wealthy Bad Godesberg (residential
area/town of the elite that governed West-Germany from post World War II to 1990,
when Germany became one country again). In fact until today some departments of
Ministries still have remained in Bad Godesberg and Bonn. I know the area well
having worked for German INGO Welthungerhilfe (2013-2015), that has its office
next to the railway station in Bad Godesberg.
From here to Bonn one cycles around 10 kms. through a park-landscape to
Bonn and leaving Bonn behind we crossed East taking the ferry into Mondorf
where we devoured the large Kuchen at ‘Konditorei Huenten’ (recommended!). Then
the final 20 kms toward Cologne…end of the trip along the Rhine. Cologne is
surrounded by green pastures as we approached it from the South side and East
bank. We checked into the Ibis hotel at the Deutz-Messe area and walked into
town toward the famous Basilique/Cathedral/Dom. Prayer time to thank the Lord
that we had had such a great time during this trip.
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| Classic post-card pic. of the Cathedral and the Rhine-bridge in Cologne taken by Gerard |
Always very impressive this
walk crossing the bridge on the Rhine, entering the Dom and being in Cologne
world city downtown. As icing on the cake we went to eat and drink at the world
famous Brothers Paeffgen Koelsch Brewery and Restaurant in the Friesenstrasse 64-66,
where Gerard and I stayed 4 hours eating and drinking the very best of the
Rhineland-Westphalian cuisine. Unfortunately we forgot the details of this
‘schranspartij’…and walked back to our hotel in 30 minutes via the Dom again.
Anyway the Paeffgen Koelsch beer is brewed in-house and we saw the barrels
being rolled from the brewery straight into the bar. 5 Stars for food and
drink. A highly recommended local culture-shot and spot.
We did 46 kms. (and walked 5) / haha.
Day 7 from Cologne back to Overijse; starting by train from Cologne central railway
station to Aachen, change to Welkenraedt (Belgium), change to Leuven where we took our bikes, did a tour
of the town and passed through the 16th century area where the nuns
had their monasteries (Begijnhoven groot en klein). Then the very final 20 plus
kms. from Leuven through Neerijse to Overijse. And back to the nest we came
from. Annie welcomed us with big smiles and went into action to spoil us with
food. Final day we cycled 27 kms.
Friends and Readers…..this trip you can do, provided
you have normal legs, you know how to steer a bicycle and that you have time on
your hands.
From Perl to Koblenz do consider to buy the
‘Leporello’ Radtourenkarte scale 1:50.000 / excellent map for cyclists / you
cannot go wrong!
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No
hills to climb
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No
expensive hotels (average 80 euros including heavy breakfast for 2 persons/double
room 2 separate beds / free Wi-fi everywhere)
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No
hassles, you can park your bike safely in the garages of the hotels
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No
bad food or drink / all local products
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No
German language skills needed…even the butcher speaks English
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No
cars on the roads, no noise, basically no danger
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No
fear that you cannot get your bike repaired / many villages have repair shops
I hope to do this trip through ‘Old Germany’ in a
couple of years with my wife Biya…this was a test.
Possibly the best cycling route in the world…our point
of view: meaning Gerard and Ton. Rated on a scale of 0 to 10…..this week
reached 8.5!!! Close to 9!
Ton van Zutphen
Leende, the Netherlands 30th October 2019
