Levada walking on Madeira Island (Portugal)

from Ton van Zutphen

period 16 -26 December 2012


I had been looking foreward to lots of walking over the Christmas period, not too far from Switzerland in an exciting environment and kind weather. Well, I can tell you this: Madeira, this evergreen island provided everything I wanted:
-  excellent (though at times dangerous) walks, frienly people everywhere, good food (although a lack of fresh fish!), good accomodation and easy to find, nice weather (I only had one rainy day...which I used to travel back from Porto Moniz to Funchal),  good public transport; and one can live well, including hotel on 50 euros a day,  and a lot of astonishing beautiful vistas. For those who do not like to climb/descent... this is not the place for you.

I arrived from Zurich at Funchal airport at noon, changed clothes, swung on my backpack and walked to Funchal..a bit tricky with all the new tunnels that have to be avoided...it took me 6 hours...and it was worth it ..it tought me the lay of the land.  

This levada walking is quite a feature. I can recommend the book: 'Madeira / Wanderfuehrer mit 35 Touren' from Oliver Breda. Books in English also exist though not as detailed as this guide. I finished 12 tours; all of them great walks!

Because ot the time of the year I focussed on walks in the Southern part of the island (warmer and less precipitation), so I did not walk the 'mountain levadas'. Nevertheless, every day I had to walk up at least 500 metres and come down; often on strenuous paths...going down is not my favourite and heavy on the knees. All walking on Madeira is similar: up and down with levelled walking alongside the irrigation canals=levadas. A simple tip...always look at starting going up when walking a levada...the tour from Jardim do Mar via Prazares (steep climb for 45 minutes) toward Paul do Mar (steep going down)...and then back along the 'boulder beach' to Jardim do Mar again...very typical for walking on the island. If I would have done it the other way, my knees would be aching upon arrival. The Western part of the island  with Jardim do Mar, Ponta do Pargo, Achada da Cruz (go down with the cable car to sea-level!), and Porto Moniz is beautiful, quiet, and offers in Porto Moniz swimming in the sea, and a sauna in the Hotel Moniz Sol (which I can recommend).

The levada walk from Ponta do Sul via Ribeira da Tabua, to Ribeira Brava is a challenge and perhaps dangerous....the bridge close to Jangao village has been swept away...but there is a detour / not clearly marked. It is a long trek and I did not meet anyone. After six hours walking, often very close to unprotected and steep sides (one could easily fall a hundred meters...and nobody would know you actually did....) I fell myself two metres when passing a village, I heard shouting and I suddenly looked up..lost my balance..and off I went. Scratches all over which were desinfected with betadine. I was lucky and learned a serious lesson: levada walking requires very precise 'stepping'..always look ahead of you ( a bit like rollerblading), concentrate on the next five metres and look up from time to time to see if the rocky mountain side / shrubs are not going to hit you or your backpak. When looking back..stop first, take a breath and then turn around. The vertigo was reasonable...as long as one does not look all the time far ahead...and of course I had a 'third leg', my walking stick. Very useful! I was alone but I can imagine that walking in a group requires some very clear pre-walk protocol/behaviour agreements.

It is such a beautiful island, green everywhere, with gardens growing sugarcane, lots of different fruit trees, ...all very (sub)tropical. I never felt insecure, the levada walks in my guide were well indicated...one does need a guidebook..as most walks are not marked (in detail) by the authorities.
However, so few of the local population walks the levadas these days..certainly not the young people, in a sense many do not know the state of the paths anymore...so be careful, and check twice if you can.

And every evening I just finished my walk early..found a place to stay easily (no need this time of the year to book); in every village one can find a 'pensao'; lots of Madeirans rent rooms / one just asks in the local bar. Several times I was the only guest in a hotel...
So I walked mainly the Western and Eastern part and went as far as Sao Lourenco, hitchhiked a few times (never had to wait for more than ten minutes) to get to my starting point or into the village where I had planned to sleep.

All good, quiet, great walks; I met very few fellow walkers / I shall return after this excellent experience. Hopefully during October-early November 2013 when it will be still warm  and little chance of rain to do the Pico Ruivo mountain walks.

I stayed also in Funchhal; lovely place; feel of a large village, along the sea, hotel Sirius (21 euros with balcony/breakfast and good!). Most beautiful village I saw is Jardim do Mar. A must see and the mountain walk there is something one shall remember.

A few stats:

• on average I did 30,000 steps every day / my pedometer told me
• with my Vaude Triset backpack 35 plus 8 litres (expandable) ..I advise not to take a larger than  40 litres backpack. The Vaude is cheap but has design flaws..one of them is that when packed it ain't easy to fit the waterbottle anymore into the outside pockets....
• I walked with 6-7 kgs. / all doable
• with new shoes: Meindl GTS lite...expensive but the right sort of boot for the terrain in Madeira. It took 50 kms to feel good in my new boots. The Lowa Renegade is definitely too light; the Lowa 'Camino' will do as well. Make sure your boots have a good grip!
• Cap, shades, sunblock,  and one walking stick highly recommended / in shorts 

tonvanzutphen@gmail.com


ps. I was not impressed with the Madeira wine/aperitivo; the local beer 'Coral' is good and the coffees are superb: my favourite brands are Delta and Tofa. 'Uma chinesa' is a large coffee with milk...normally one euro though in the boonies I was offered for as little as seventy euro cents....and of course take it with a 'pastel de nata'...a Portuguese cake/cookie prepared with almonds...simply delicious.
Wine....a glass of Monte Velho from the Alentejo in Portugal will be excellent with your meal. The local wine from the Seixal area (Northern part of the island)..I tasted but it is more of a 'pinard'. and my favourite drink: water..all good all over the island. No need to buy bottled water.
Oh yes...English spoken widely!