Ton van Zutphen (Antonius Franciscus) in Neuss am Rhein and the Drachenfels / in Germany / March 2014

Ton van Zutphen (Antonius Franciscus) in Neuss am Rhein and to the Drachenfels in Germany / March 2014

(in the footsteps of his father Franz and the family)

 Numerous times in the past six months did I pass through Neuss am Rhein by train…always reminiscing about my father who was born there on 6^th November 1906 and who lived in this quiet  town for about 10 years. With a few days off around the Carnaval I decided to go and have a look at the area in which he grew up. Growing up as a boy must have meant roaming the streets with short leather trousers on, unkempt hair, a snotty nose, talking to the milkman who supplied the milk on a horse driven cart, shopping for groceries and taking the veggies home with mother, playing football for FC Neuss, and going to Froebelgarten and primary school. Grandma and pa had 5 children, 2 girls and 3 boys, my father being the youngest (see pic below). They were well settled in the industrial area of Neuss just a few blocks east of the railway station. I walked under the steel arched railway bridge into the Further Strasse and into the Kolping Viertel where the family lived. My father, aunts and uncles must have walked the same road thousands of times….. In some parts the original cobbled streets are still there to see and feel. The area was built around smokestack industries which provided the finer supplies necessary for the heavy industries of the Ruhrgebiet (coal and iron). The family looked well off …but decided to return to the Netherlands (a neutral country 1914-1918) when World War 1 broke out.  I have always realized how lucky the 60-70 generation was: we have never seen a war, even close to us (apart from the Balkans)…whereas my father and his family went through both World Wars.

And here I was for 2 hours walking through the Kettelerstrasse (I believe the family occupied house with #3), Roemerstrasse, Frankenstrasse, and the Kolpingstrasse. Some of the houses have their dates of construction still clearly marked on them…in particular those before 1914. Just note that is about one century ago that my father as an 8 year old boy played in those streets.

back from left Martin, grandmother Anna, Dina, Grandfather Anton, Anna

front from left Johann and to the right my father Franz (8 years)

 

I believe our ancestral home was the second one...#3

 

I want to thank my nephew Henk in Bergharen (NL) who provided the older pics. Mine below are showing how the Kettelerstreet looks like in 2014.  Who knows, we’ll get as a family more interested in finding out the details of that Neuss period in the life of my grandparents with their children.

                                                                            

 

                                                                                       

obviously the street has had a few facelifts, but the essential elements of the houses can be recognized

 

Then my father when I was a boy, talked often about the Rhine, Bingen, die Lorelei, das Siebengebirge and the Drachenfels…that steep climb from Koenigswinter or Rhoendorf to the ruins of a mediaeval castle. It is said here in Bonn that this Drachenfels was the highest mountain in the Netherlands between 1960-1980…because of all the Dutch that came and visit. And one tradition still exists: donkeys will take you up for a few bucks. I went last Sunday again knowing to follow my father’s footsteps. A great walk with beautiful weather; a good and healthy sweat, from Rhoendorf upwards and then descending to the Rhine Southwards. A roundtrip from my apartment in Bonn Friesdorf with two ferries to take, is about 15 kms with 500 meters denivelation.

It feels good to be in Germany / along the Rhine. I am ever so grateful.

tonvanzutphen@gmail.com

Ton van Zutphen, searching for Koelsch type beer in the Cologne-Bonn area (Feb.March 14)

Ton van Zutphen searching for Koelsch Beers in Cologne-Bonn area / Feb./March 2014

 

 

A sort of silly, bohemian, irrelevant but curious note from Ton van Zutphen (not an expert himself!).

I vaguely remember two references to this particular beer: 1. My father Franz mentioned it to me in the early seventies, when he talked about German beer (which he rarely did / he never drank adult beverages). Men and women drank ‘KOELSCH’ in Koeln/Cologne…though not in Duesseldorf-Neuss where he himself was born. One drinks ‘Altbier’ there…and it is difficult to find Koelsch because of the open animosity/competition between Cologne and Duesseldorf. It is said that ‘what the people from Cologne throw in the gutter..the people from Duesseldorf drink as ‘Altbeer’ / not very nice indeed… (both cities are along the Rhine) 2. I once went to the RosenMontag carnaval in Cologne with my study friend Gerd Leers, I recall it must have been in 1971 or 72? I now somehow remember the small, thin glasses (0.2 litres) and the cheap price for a ‘Koelsch’. I wasn’t impressed about the taste. We Dutch (and in fact most Germans as well) prefer the more ‘herbiger / Pilsener type beers’.

So what is this Koelsch beer all about? Locally brewed, geographically limited to particular districts inside the city of Cologne; A clear color, bright, sort of straw yellow, articulate hoppiness, but less bitter than the German lagers that most people know. It is warm fermented at around 13-21 degrees C (55 to 70 degrees F); and finally kept in cold circumstances to create its specific taste. The latter is essential and defines the specific smell, flavor  and aftertaste. Only those ingredients are used that are allowed by the German Rheinheitsgebot from 1516:  Beer is made of water, barley and hops

Now that I live and work in Germany in the Bonn- Bad Godesberg area as of November 13, I am giving it a lot of effort to learn how to appreciate Koelsch.  And it ain’t that easy. Many people I meet in the ‘Kneipe’ prefer the dominant regional beer ‘Bitburg’ to the various Koelsch types… I started off with the wrong one ‘Gaffel’ not one that I rate high at all (see below). Reminds me of a fine marketing concept to produce a beer that accommodates to the average taste of the man in the street…a bit like our Dutch ‘Heineken’. As a general rule now I start with a Koelsch or a Hefeweizen (which is something different altogether) and then finish with a Bitburg-‘Bitte ein Bit’. Now readers, don’t get me wrong here…a few glasses a day would remain below the average drinking standard and habit of normal Germans. I now have seen how the Germans carry away the beer in crates and in small barrels (Faesschen of 5 upto 50 litres) from special ‘drink supermarkets’  to enjoy at home or fuel up a party. And…beer is cheap at half a USD a pint in the supermarket!

As far as I am aware Germany is about the only country that has dealt properly with the issue of empty bottles and cans. On all glass and pet bottles and all cans throughout the country is quite an interesting deposit. An empty can will fetch you back 25 eurocents/35 dollarcents at any supermarket; same as for a pet bottle. So in one stroke the Germans turned a problem into an opportunity: it is not unusual to see the ‘unemployed’ looking for these empty cans and pet bottles in public places. You throw one away..and you can be sure someone will pick it up within minutes. Streets are completely clean of bottles and cans. In fact the value of a can could be half the price of the value of the beer inside!!  

There is an interesting website:  koelschfuehrer.de which argues that there a 13 permanently operating  breweries  in Cologne. There is another list which gives you a total number of 87 known names of Koelsch beers enumerated sofar. Doesn’t mean you can buy these beers…  A rough estimate from me is that some 30 Koelsch types can be found on and off. The big commercial Koelsch breweries are: Gaffel, Reissdorf, and Frueh. Followed by the smaller ones Gilden, Peters, Muehlen, Dom, and Sion. You can look these up in downtown Cologne and drink at the brewery (with Sausage, Kraut, Potatoes etc.) Definitely recommended! I spent one hour at Paeffgen Brauhaus in the Friesenstrasse / simply perfect.
And today 30th March I visited the premises of the now more or less commercially closed Ganser Koelsch brewery in Leverkusen...Hey this place is not in Koeln  but is a large city by itself. It is also said that a brewery could use the name 'Koelsch' if from its site one could see the world renowned Cathedral in Cologne. Perhaps that was the case in 1879 when this brewery started. At present the brewery is surrounded by tall buildings as it sits in the commercial district. Nevertheless..the Kroatian restaurant 'Zagreb' (very good food, Preiswert) next to the brewery served me a wonderful Ganser Koelsch in a large 0,3 litres glass with a gold rim and the pretty logo. The beermat says: die Liebe der Familie GANSER gehoert seit 1879 ihrem Bier und seiner rheinischen Heimat. Wow...a family that lived through generations with the objective to brew ever better beer. How great a profession and job that is! Live it up with Ganser Koelsch.
Finally there is close to Bonn and annually during the summer (July-August) the largest beer tasting outdoor event in the world.  All the Koelsch beers that are being brewed will be presented. I hope to attend if not this year, but certainly before I get old.

I have tasted so far 20 different types of the approx. 30 types one could possibly find…and rated the taste from 1 to 5 stars (*…..*****) / please note that of all these types I drank at least 2 glasses..or more!

Dom  3-4                            Sion  3                                 Gaffel  2-3                          Sester  3                  Gilden  3-4

Frueh  4                               Muehlen  4-3                     Hansa  3                              Richmodis  3          Hellers  3-4

Reissdorf  3-4                    Kueppers  3                        Giesler  3                            Suennen  3             Paeffgen  4-3

Traugott Simon  2-3         Schreckenskammer 3       Peters 3-4                           Zunft   3     Ganser 3-4

Frueh (Alkoholfrei) very tasty nevertheless 3-4 (rare to find!) 

So ‘Frueh’ Koelsch is at present my favourite; which is what I drink at my apartment in the G-Hotel in Bonn – Friesdorf.             

And in Bonn, during the carnival, I had a few  dark ‘Boennsch’…same sort of brew like  Koelsch…and rated it with 3 stars. And more recently with Stefan and Florian...a 'Boennsch' hefe und trueb...terrible stuff, undrinkable...rating less than 2! 

This note was written specifically to advise beer drinking connaisseurs and friends:  Gerard van der Meeren (amateur beer brewing champion Netherlands 1980), Dwayne Sedig. Mark Neeson, Liz Satow, Mark Janz, Harry Donsbach, Nicole Peter, Cor van den Hurk, Gerd Leers, Keith Buck,  Biya Han, Joerg Heinrich, Gerard Verstappen, Steve Hailey, Wolfgang Jamann and many others who may prefer not to see their name mentioned here…haha!

And of course in the USA on the West Coast my friend Dwayne says 'Koelsch' is being brewed by the micro breweries...Love to taste it as well!

Viele Gruesse von der Anton, Antonius, hic…Ton

Bonn – Bad Godesberg 5^th March 2014

Miami Marathon 2014 / Miami Heat by Ton van Zutphen

 

Well friends, this was my second full Miami marathon and again a lot of fun combined with hardship.

It was soooo good to see Nicole, Keith, Batshe and my daughter Valerie who now works in Haiti, again. Also the prep. has now its traditional elements such as walking/jogging across the Venetian Causeway toward the Convention centre to pick up the bib. And then cruising on the boardwalk along the sea with a quick peek at the South Beach clientele. Always staying at that friendly Hampton Inn in Dadeland and eating / shopping at the Asia Lan resto, Target boutique, JC Penney, and Sports Authority.  Miami is getting a comfortable place. And we all enjoy the brunch at Senora Sandra/Tia's apartment with mimosas and good Costa Rican cuisine. A marathon in the sun when the European winter is full on, what can beat that feeling?!

I recall last year that the less than 1 mile on the Rickenbacker Causeway caused me to slow down big time...because no shade there and only 3 miles away from the finish. Although mentally better prepared for it this year it still hit me...the heat, sun, and the shimmering sea. I have now analysed for myself why this marathon is slow compared to the ones I ran in Europe....we start at around 6.30 hrs early morning with a temp. of about 19 degrees. The first 8 miles are always good...cool and without sun / but when the golden ball starts pounding the blacktop of the Venetian Causeway the temp. shoots up in about half an hour minutes to about 30 degrees in the sun. That steep change in such a short period is hard on the body...and indeed once I got onto the Tiger Trail Av. after Mile 15, I simply had to slow down and fall back to full speedwalking mode. Before that I altered jogging (70%) with speedwalking (30%) and I was on track for a time under 5 hours. C'est la vie. It was great to pass Coconut Grove again, where I lived for 4 months in the Commodore Plaza last year. And hey, this is what happened on the Main Highway in the Grove: the field of runners was broken..in front of me and after me...no one within 25 metres. Slowly driving up on the other side of the road a red Ferrari and when this Italian beauty was close, the window rolled down and a young guy smiled and waved me on...I stuck up my hand to let him now 'thanks and I'll do my best' and increased my speed momentarily. Then I realised that I knew this guy with his bobbed hair from  internet pics......'course this was that idol Justin Bieber. Really a possibility? I checked with Nicole later and indeed this Bieber boy was spotted that weekend in Miami. Nice of him to encourage me; nice of me to thank him for it. Somehow he must have felt I did not recognize him. Haha. So with my Antonius 5155 bib I sped on and I decided to eat my wheatbread with salami when I passed the Grove yacht harbor. Interestingly, there is no food for the participants, not even a banana..just water with Gatorade galore, and at only two stations the (in)famous Gatorade Endurance Carb Energy Chews..not really my thing! I also should mention that just as last year  (and I do not have this feeling during other marathons) the last 6 miles I feel that my stomach is not in perfect shape; no vomiting yet but it does slow me down as well. And yes...plenty of fellow runners puking in the bushes. A good thing also that I managed my bio household well, no need to pee...

So I managed to even run the last 200 metres with a smile for the picture op. when Batshe took her shots. Pretty exhausted after the 26.2 miles enjoying a bottle of cold Coke. And a slightly better time this year over the past year: 5.32.27 against 5.35.00. Lesson to be applied in consideration of the heat: start in corral E or F instead of H and depart about 15 minutes earlier.

This year's medal is  bling bling big size and shiny again...but incredible that the organisers ran out of medals for Keith and Nicole. Nissan as a sponsor is definitely a few marks down from the ING Bank.

And we decided to run also next year ...special occasion for the 5th anniversary of the Haiti/Port au Prince earthquake. Keith, Nicole and myself already registered as three of the 30,000 expected participants. The traditional Sunday night eat and booze party at Larios had to be moved to the more formal Cheesecake factory at the Dadeland Mall...because of the Super Bowl event...even the Cubans then close shop! Unfortunately our waiter took no interest in serving us but had the info about the Broncos against who again in Seattle ....? on his fingertips.

To all who may read this and who were there before....Jenafir, Yara, Kesso, Harry, Steve, Annette, Rachel, and perhaps Neel, Ashraf, Nina, Sabrina, Dwayne, others...let us try to do it next year 25th Jan.

 

Some stats:

I ran on brand new Brooks Racer S 7, decked out in orange with Zensah compression socks, and my German patella wrapped around my left knee (this really makes a difference!).

In this strong field of mainly Latino runners I came in # 42 out of 52 participants in my age group (60-65). And of all the marathon runners # 2892 out of # 3593. Do note that the vast majority run the half marathon and that there are more female than male runners!

Victor of the  men's elite was Samuel Malakuen (Kenya) @ 2.19.46 and women's elite was Mariska Kramer (the Netherlands) @ 2.49.27. Indeed confirming this to be a slow marathon..over 15 minutes slower than the Berlin marathon in 2013.   

See my split time at 10 kms is 1.11. then 21.1 kms at 2.36 / at 30 kms 3.47.end is 5.32.27. So I already was slowing down at the half split!

Valerie @ 2.44.21 / half marathon

Keith @ 3.20.10

Nicole @ 4.06.42

 

see also www.ingmiamimarathon.com

Friends....doesn't this all encourage you to put your racing shoes straps on? So, prepare mentally because it is all in the head...the legs are a tool only / training does help of course.

 

.

 

 

 

 

De 4 daagse (noch einmal !) / the Walk of the World in Nijmegen /July 2013 by Ton van Zutphen

This years walk took place under clear skies...fabulous weather indeed: cool in the morning, sunny throughout, a few light clouds and a temp. around 25 degrees C.  I had trained enough with a 25 kms trial run around the Lainzer Tiergarten a week before in Vienna and a few days walk up and down the river Maas in the vicinity of Lith where my sister Elly lives. The city of Nijmegen welcomed over 40,000 walkers and a much larger number of visitors every day..the mayor expecting nearly one million people over a full week's period. In fact I had never experienced downtown with such huge crowds and amenities: music in the streets, tables outside the cafes, bars open all night long..people swerving with beers and other adult beverages throughout town.
This was the 97th edition and my 5th march. Since my racewalking hobby started I try to pace myself hard during day 1 and day 3 when I am allowed to start early. Day one started off at 05.30 hrs and I came in at 10.15 hours finishing  my 40 kms and ranking first in my category...with a 6th place all together. There is the 'elite bench' of about 15 fast men and women where we talk about shoes and equipment...and speed. Interesting. There is an Englishman who arrives first every year...50 kms in about 5 hours...  and way beyond my league. Third day with the Breedeveld/Groesbeek/Berg en Dal hills I came in 7th and it took me 5 hours. The second and fourth day I walked with my friend Gerard Verstappen and we had time to reminisce and talk about our lives...and plans of which I realize I still have plenty. The third day we met with friends...Antonet, Fritz,  Gerard and others at café De Kroon which is about 400 meters before the finish ...and we saw those who had to be supported to get in before the bell of 17 hours rings...anybody arriving later will be disqualified and cannot start the next day. The last 500 walkers really suffer...but it is all part of the game. This year's registration came to 46,000 walkers...42,493 started and 39,396 made it to the finish at the end of day 4.  
This has now become a yearly event for me: 3 times I walked 200 kms and the last 2 times 160 kms. I hope next year more of our ex student colleagues from the Prof. Bromstreet 40 will participate such as Frie, Frans, Leon,...who dares?
And also Antonet, wife of our dear friend Cees who passed away one year ago in Nijmegen. It was wonderful to be with her, Gerard and his partner Isy at Café 'De Compagnie' where in the honor of Cees a beautifully crafted wooden bench has been placed. The Walk of the World (www.4daagse.nl) has become perhaps a ritual...to continue.
In the end..and an hour after arriving Friday afternoon I had a few difficult moments when I realized I had taken off my cap (to greet the mayor Bruls also), to receive the traditional flowers from Isy...'gladiolen'...walking with a bald head is not smart when the sun is out. I guess I did not drink enough in the last 3 kms. ...life is not perfect. Anyway..I know this for next year and I also realize clearly that 50kms every day is not for me anymore! 

Some stats:
I walked the 'fast' days on Saucony racing flats (FastWitch 5)
Day 2 and day 4 on Nike lunar glide 3
Always wearing running socks of the brand 'X socks' and using 'Rohde' Hirschtalg crème for my feet (before and after)
I had one blister on my small left toe / not really bothering me much
Met a few nice people...Hans, a Dutch power walker with similar interests to live in Vienna, Kirsten,  a retired Norwegian police officer, and the usual French randonneurs, who love it when someone speaks to them in their language.

I look foreward to next year...always third week in July.

Last but not least.... much thanks go to  Antonet who offered me the hospitality to stay and meet little Beer. We both know that big Beer was with us as well. 

Ton van Zutphen finishes Miami Beach 13.1 Marathon (March 13)

Ton van Zutphen finishes the Miami Beach 13.1 miles Marathon on 9th March 2013 / Half-Marathon

This time through a combination of racewalking and running.

I registered only a few days prior to this race; having spent a full week in meetings in Tennessee without proper 'running about' and lots of regular coffees and breakfasts/lunches/dinners. No wonder 90% of my colleagues gain weight. When I received a mail-reminder from the organisers I said to myself...'what the heck, go for it!'

So no proper training, I just hoped my legs and lungs still remembered the experience of the full marathon over one month ago...also in Miami.

Then Saturday morning very early with a taxi from my studio in Coconut Grove to Ocean Drive at SoBe (South Beach Miami). I had plenty of time to do warming up exercises..I think this does help, by the way. Mentally I started to be very ready for this one!

Start of the elite guys/gals @ 6 am (only 40 of them...all supposed to remain under 1 hour 25 minutes)..the winner was a Kenyan Shadrack Kosgei in 1 hr. 3 minutes and 15 secs. Then the other normal 2006 participants made it to finish of this half marathon starting at 6.13 am under a slightly clouded sky, little breeze and 18 degrees. Simply wonderful.

As usual I started at the very back...to avoid being caught up in 'running jams'....and the first 5 miles were great...humming my mantra 'slow down, slow down / but keep going'. The parcours is great with the crossing of long bridges both the Julia Tuttle and MacArthur causeways...together good for 5 miles already and obviously lots of early morning sea breezes. I passed the 5 mile sign under 55 minutes...it sort of went in a haze.

Interestingly the full week before I had not imbibed in any adult beverages. I had taken a bit of the small flask '5 hour extra energy' ( my preferred kind of epo) before the race, and I knew I had my bio household under control. No hunger or having to visit 'the Johns' anymore during this race.

Just before arriving at mile 9 I joined the runners pack of the pacemaker upholding the card 2.30, meaning a group of runners that all aimed to finish just below 2 hours 30 minutes. That's what I did and it worked well for me...I could just about follow in racewalking mode and from time to time I ran. Friends...this is the future...racewalk half, run/jog half. Not too hard on the knees and better for the heart/lungs and legs. Believe me!

Pity that on the MacArthur causeway on the left side there was a car traffic jam and I had to start walking very close to the bridge ramp on the right to avoid the car exhaust...well this is America after all! Also a pity because when racewalking one needs to walk where it is absolutely flat and not on the edge where the road is often slightly bent downwards...Wears one out.....So we were trotting along with the 2.30 group of about 10 runners. The pacemaker cheering us up: 'c'mon # 2345 (my number)...you can do it. We are nearly there; the finish is just around the block......etc.etc.'

The last mile and a half we actually went past the golden sands of South Beach / very pretty with the sun shining and all of us smelling the finish.

I took a last sort of sprint...and ran pretty good for 300 metres.

This time it was an easy go. Could have gone a bit faster if I had coordinated my running better...or if someone ran with me from the beginning.

This was good; next year hopefully again...if I am still in Miami by then / which is doubtful.

As a reward again a beautiful silver medal; oversized US style...but I am lovin' it of course! Then the food we were handed out ..I could not believe my eyes...muffins, canned sugary fruits, and cookies. I stuck to bananas and water and had a sip of 'Michelob' free beer (not be recommended to a European). Luckily there was rice, black beans and pollo (my favourite Black Mountain-Haiti dish). And a great atmosphere with everybody walking on the sand and enjoying the apres-race atmosphere.

　

Some stats:

Winner in my age category arrived in 1 hr. 30 minutes 55 secs. Bravissimo; probably one of the few remaining Neanderthalers

I came in 24th in my age category @ 2.25.29...and missed my Personal Best by 7 seconds. Can you believe this? In Eindhoven, NL last year I finished in

2.25.22.....

Finished as # 1478 out of 2006 participants / men-women combined

Latest arrival finished @ 3 hr. 58 minutes and 15 secs.

I ran on size 13 racing flats Brooks T5 racer...a shoe I can now definitely recommend (uni-sex shoe) with my World Vision tank singlet....and saw only one other WV t-shirt around

Wow....every month a walking or running event...that is what life should become!

tonvanzutphen@gmail.com

Finishing the Miami 2013 marathon

Ton van Zutphen

Finishing the Miami full marathon in Florida, the sunshine state, on 27th Jan. 2013


One prime reason to participate in a Miami half or full marathon is that the weather in January is practically a 'guaranteed mild and sunny' experience. And so it was this time...starting at 06.15 hours with the elite runners. Interestingly the course is not a fast one, not as fast as Vienna or Eindhoven. It took the Guatamalan winner over 2 hours 26 minutes for the 26 miles plus. In Eindhoven, my town of birth, the winner finished last year October in 2 hours 6 minutes....  I am telling myself that this is why my time was perhaps not that good either...in Rome last year I racewalked the marathon in 2 hours 34 minutes, with plenty of cobble stones... and now in Miami it took me 1 minute more! Fact is I did not train much, and there were circumstances I had not expected to face. Here are they: along the course are thousands of volunteers with water and gatorade....but really nothing substantial to eat..except for these energy gels...I was raised on bread, milk and peanut butter so really the gels don't do it for me...they result into an energy blast of a couple of hundred meteres...but are not filling up my stomach and actually at one stage I thought I may have to 'puke' which I saw many runners do.....Secondly at mile 22 we had to run up and down the Rickenbacker Causeway that leads to the bridge to Key Biscayne...lots of wind, no shade for 2 miles (still 3,1 kms...). I arrived at the finish with a crust of salt on my arms, face and legs...
And it all started so well and fast....sun's coming up and the 26,000 runners go off. We cross the bridge to Miami Beach and see the huge holiday cruising ships moored at port, their numerous lights welcoming the crowd of runners. First 4 miles simply jogging and it felt good. Then along Ocean Drive direction Lincoln Avenue and upto the picturesque Venetian Causeway with its Italian named man made small islands...At mile 9 on the Lido island I suddenly  hear someone calling 'papa' and my daughter Kesso overtakes me..I had by then settled in a steady racewalking cadence pacing under under 12 minutes a mile.....
I could not keep up with Kesso and dreaded to be overtaken soon by yet another fast runner of our small group..Rachel or Annette. Well, I kept pushing and where the half marathon splits from the full marathon course, close to mile 13, I believed (wrongly) I was going for a fast one this time....Well friends, 6 long miles to go before Coconut Grove is long way.  Arriving at mile 19 I had nothing really to eat...and I did not want to mix the beef jerky/dried meat with the energybar for risk of an upset tummy and throwing up...No food like dried fruit or nuts on offer; no bananas either. So I slowed down a bit knowing I had a few difficult miles ahead of me. The Rickenbacker Causeway 'did me in'. And many of us: the combination of sun, salt, wind around 11 o'clock created havoc. Many runners started to walk. Finally I was glad I had not experienced the pain in my left upper leg (still there occasionally dating back from the Madeira-levada walking) but when one of the policeman shouted at me and encouraged me to run the last 2 miles...I couldn't do it. Anyway participating is more important than scoring a personal best. For next year I know what to do different: take good and enough food with me...and my own brew of tea, honey and lime!  And a bit of extra training in the last two weeks before the event.
We all finished from our group. Only ladies this time. The 3 men that had committed earlier gave all a no-show. I won't name them here.... 
It was in the end all great: everybody enjoyed the run; nobody got sick, all of us received a beautiful, big and heavy  'bling bling' medal and nobody felt any serious pain.

Some stats:

I jogged/racewalked on a pair of Brooks Racer ST5 / the perfect racemonster for me!
Also tried one of these compression socks and felt very comfortable in them. The fact that I could not walk/run faster had less to do with my legs..more with my stomach and fear of getting sick during the race
In my category of 60-64 I came in 54 out of 74 participants (fastest was 3 hours 39 minutes, slowest took 6 hours 32 minutes); so I have a long way to improve. The wish is once to get under the 5 hours....maybe this coming October in Eindhoven!  
Then our World Vision group did well:
Jenafir House, a PB half marathon at 2 hours 3 minutes: bravissimo!!
Kesso van Zutphen, first half marathon in 2 hours 31 minutes
Rachel Mikanagu and Annette Emiko Taylor both their first half marathon in same time of 3 hours 28 minutes
Dona Nicole Peter's second half marathon in 2 hours 46 minutes

And the evening was spent at the 'Larios' Cuban restaurant on Sunset Drive, great stories and reminiscing. Wonderful to be with Nicole's family as well. Friends, this is now the second Miami marathon in which the Haiti colleagues took part. Next year again. I registered for 2014 this morning!
We should be at least 10 runners next year on 2nd February 2014.

Hasta la proxima!

tonvanzutphen@gmail.com

Levada walking on Madeira Island (Portugal)

from Ton van Zutphen

period 16 -26 December 2012


I had been looking foreward to lots of walking over the Christmas period, not too far from Switzerland in an exciting environment and kind weather. Well, I can tell you this: Madeira, this evergreen island provided everything I wanted:
-  excellent (though at times dangerous) walks, frienly people everywhere, good food (although a lack of fresh fish!), good accomodation and easy to find, nice weather (I only had one rainy day...which I used to travel back from Porto Moniz to Funchal),  good public transport; and one can live well, including hotel on 50 euros a day,  and a lot of astonishing beautiful vistas. For those who do not like to climb/descent... this is not the place for you.

I arrived from Zurich at Funchal airport at noon, changed clothes, swung on my backpack and walked to Funchal..a bit tricky with all the new tunnels that have to be avoided...it took me 6 hours...and it was worth it ..it tought me the lay of the land.  

This levada walking is quite a feature. I can recommend the book: 'Madeira / Wanderfuehrer mit 35 Touren' from Oliver Breda. Books in English also exist though not as detailed as this guide. I finished 12 tours; all of them great walks!

Because ot the time of the year I focussed on walks in the Southern part of the island (warmer and less precipitation), so I did not walk the 'mountain levadas'. Nevertheless, every day I had to walk up at least 500 metres and come down; often on strenuous paths...going down is not my favourite and heavy on the knees. All walking on Madeira is similar: up and down with levelled walking alongside the irrigation canals=levadas. A simple tip...always look at starting going up when walking a levada...the tour from Jardim do Mar via Prazares (steep climb for 45 minutes) toward Paul do Mar (steep going down)...and then back along the 'boulder beach' to Jardim do Mar again...very typical for walking on the island. If I would have done it the other way, my knees would be aching upon arrival. The Western part of the island  with Jardim do Mar, Ponta do Pargo, Achada da Cruz (go down with the cable car to sea-level!), and Porto Moniz is beautiful, quiet, and offers in Porto Moniz swimming in the sea, and a sauna in the Hotel Moniz Sol (which I can recommend).

The levada walk from Ponta do Sul via Ribeira da Tabua, to Ribeira Brava is a challenge and perhaps dangerous....the bridge close to Jangao village has been swept away...but there is a detour / not clearly marked. It is a long trek and I did not meet anyone. After six hours walking, often very close to unprotected and steep sides (one could easily fall a hundred meters...and nobody would know you actually did....) I fell myself two metres when passing a village, I heard shouting and I suddenly looked up..lost my balance..and off I went. Scratches all over which were desinfected with betadine. I was lucky and learned a serious lesson: levada walking requires very precise 'stepping'..always look ahead of you ( a bit like rollerblading), concentrate on the next five metres and look up from time to time to see if the rocky mountain side / shrubs are not going to hit you or your backpak. When looking back..stop first, take a breath and then turn around. The vertigo was reasonable...as long as one does not look all the time far ahead...and of course I had a 'third leg', my walking stick. Very useful! I was alone but I can imagine that walking in a group requires some very clear pre-walk protocol/behaviour agreements.

It is such a beautiful island, green everywhere, with gardens growing sugarcane, lots of different fruit trees, ...all very (sub)tropical. I never felt insecure, the levada walks in my guide were well indicated...one does need a guidebook..as most walks are not marked (in detail) by the authorities.
However, so few of the local population walks the levadas these days..certainly not the young people, in a sense many do not know the state of the paths anymore...so be careful, and check twice if you can.

And every evening I just finished my walk early..found a place to stay easily (no need this time of the year to book); in every village one can find a 'pensao'; lots of Madeirans rent rooms / one just asks in the local bar. Several times I was the only guest in a hotel...
So I walked mainly the Western and Eastern part and went as far as Sao Lourenco, hitchhiked a few times (never had to wait for more than ten minutes) to get to my starting point or into the village where I had planned to sleep.

All good, quiet, great walks; I met very few fellow walkers / I shall return after this excellent experience. Hopefully during October-early November 2013 when it will be still warm  and little chance of rain to do the Pico Ruivo mountain walks.

I stayed also in Funchhal; lovely place; feel of a large village, along the sea, hotel Sirius (21 euros with balcony/breakfast and good!). Most beautiful village I saw is Jardim do Mar. A must see and the mountain walk there is something one shall remember.

A few stats:

• on average I did 30,000 steps every day / my pedometer told me
• with my Vaude Triset backpack 35 plus 8 litres (expandable) ..I advise not to take a larger than  40 litres backpack. The Vaude is cheap but has design flaws..one of them is that when packed it ain't easy to fit the waterbottle anymore into the outside pockets....
• I walked with 6-7 kgs. / all doable
• with new shoes: Meindl GTS lite...expensive but the right sort of boot for the terrain in Madeira. It took 50 kms to feel good in my new boots. The Lowa Renegade is definitely too light; the Lowa 'Camino' will do as well. Make sure your boots have a good grip!
• Cap, shades, sunblock,  and one walking stick highly recommended / in shorts 

tonvanzutphen@gmail.com


ps. I was not impressed with the Madeira wine/aperitivo; the local beer 'Coral' is good and the coffees are superb: my favourite brands are Delta and Tofa. 'Uma chinesa' is a large coffee with milk...normally one euro though in the boonies I was offered for as little as seventy euro cents....and of course take it with a 'pastel de nata'...a Portuguese cake/cookie prepared with almonds...simply delicious.
Wine....a glass of Monte Velho from the Alentejo in Portugal will be excellent with your meal. The local wine from the Seixal area (Northern part of the island)..I tasted but it is more of a 'pinard'. and my favourite drink: water..all good all over the island. No need to buy bottled water.
Oh yes...English spoken widely!

Walking the Jesus trail in Israel / from Nazareth to Capernaum and.... a few more days cruising around Lake Galilee / mid November 2012

Walking the Jesus trail in Israel / from Nazareth to Capernaum and....
a few more days cruising  around Lake Galilee / mid November 2012

TonvanZutphen@gmail.com

Perfect timing in terms of the weather with cool mornings and a max. temp. of 28 degrees C. early afternoons. Although the region is not as green as during the spring it felt alive and many pastures and woods gave off that the smell of a comfortable green walking environment. No rains at all...So a great walking experience although I only met one (1) other Jesus trail walker. Definitely the trail is not a popular destination. The fact that my walk took place in the midsts of a sudden shoot-out conflict between the Israeli govt. and the Hamas govt. in Gaza immediately led to cancellations of bookings in the hostels along the route from Israeali schools. It was easy to find accomodation; inexpensive with good food and close to the trail. I began at the Fauzi Azar Inn in the old town in Nazareth which I can recommend for its helpful staff and well organised sleeping arrangement. Stayed in a dorm of 6 which reminded me of my India-trek days back in the seventies. All cozy, international atmosphere, reasonably comfortable and clean.

The trail itself starts with a brisk climb out of Nazareth and unfortunately the markings then disappear at the edge of town where a new road is being constructed. Fair enough..one can find the way back by looking at a map and then crossing over rough terrain to the far away blacktop. But this happened a couple of times (around Mashad toward Cana, around Nakhal Arbel and very seriously in the Zaki lagoon area south of Bethsaida / on the north-east side of Lake Galilee). Clearly the marking sites need to be maintained; a few volunteers should be able to do this, hence avoiding unnecessary wanderings by walkers. I lost my way around Nakhal Arbel and wandered between Mount Nitai and Mount Arbel for a few hours through meadows with bulls/cows, a lot of high barbed wire and it was getting dark by 16.30 hours already....I just made it to the comfortable B&Bhome of the Shavit family in the Moshav Arbel kibbutz area;  in time before pitchdark. 

The Arbel cliffs area....how beautiful the views over the Lake Galilee! How exciting to walk and climb around the cliffs, going up and down. How dangerous this can be after a rain......I carried a 7 kgs Vaude backpack and in the beginning felt ill at ease to climb down the cliff using metal handholds and holding iron strings attached to the rocks. From the top of Arbel cliff to the Lake Galilee is 400 metres of denivellation. In the end I decided this was the best part of the trail so a few days later I returned and walked up the cliffs as well. Having arrived on the top I met with a few school groups...kids on average 12 years young with their teachers, a few parents and a security officer. I could not believe that Israeali youth just clambers up and down these cliffs....a bit of vertigo, a slip of the feet....one could fall 300 mettres.... In Switzerland parents /teachers would never ever agree to do this..simply too dangerous!

Overall the trail is easy to do........though one does not come across villages anymore...Cana is now a town of over 15,000 people. The urbanisation process is visible throughout Israel. The kibbutzim one can only see from the outside (all fenced)...many historical places mentioned in the Bible and detailed on www.jesustrail.com  are isolated spots (perhaps better this way). I felt that interaction with those who live in Galilee is therefore limited to the hostels where I stayed. Nevertheless the idea to walk for days through an area where Jesus has spent years as well is quite some imagination ...that comes back all the time. One late afternoon after a swim in the Lake at Kerei Deshe hostel's beach I felt that enourmous peaceful feeling of a tired body, warmed by the sun, at a spot that is serene and beautiful with birds in the reeds and a breeze just perfect..... All by myself as well.
The trail certainly provides you with time to think but make sure you watch where you step as the road is practically everywhere full of small to medium sized pebbles and stones.

Landmarks in the area to visit include the Mount of Beatitudes ( a 2 kms walk from Tabgha), The Zippori national park (with a detailed Roman town), the synagogue at Capernaum, the horns of Hittin area where the Crusaders lost a decisive battle against Saladin,  the area where the Jordan river in all its beauty flows into the Lake Galilee, Mount Bereniki south of Tiberias..and Tiberias itself; a bit of tourist twon but cosmopolitan and friendly with a cafe/terrasse culture where it is good sipping a beer in the eve.  

Some more impressions and stats:

1. In five and a half days I did 210,000 steps. A lot of small ones because of the hilly terrain. I guess I did around 110 kms alltogether
2. The trail itself from Nazareth to Capernaum is easy to do in 3 days, starting at 8 morning and finishing at 4 afternoon with half an hour rest. This will not allow for the visits to specific historical spots as I did mention above. So if you go easy...take 4 days
3. I walked on Lowa Renegade, boots  I bought 3 years ago...I recommend the next one up ..meaning stronger/sturdier soles because of the stones that are a visible part of the pavement littered for perhaps 25% of the trail
4. Very few walkers/hikers on the trail, I did not even see other hikers on the famous 'Israel trail' either
5. The feeling about security is good...days are short so start to walk early
6. A good breakfast in the morning with a couple of energy bars and liter of water will get you through the day during this time of the year. All very pleasant.

This was a short week well spent away from Geneva with clean air, good food, nice temperatures, beautiful walking area and time to think all along! 

Rome, Italy: 7 heavenly things and 7 challenges by Ton van Zutphen

　

By Ton van Zutphen

nedineurope.blogspot.com

　

Living / Working in Rome 2011-2012...7 heavenly things and 7 challenges:a definite personal opinion and experience by Ton van Zutphen

As of June 2011 I work, walk, talk, pray, eat and live like the nearly 3 million people in and around the Italian capital. Here are my impressions / strictly personal / and these are likely to differ sharply from most Romans and the tens of thousands of temporary guests like me.

More or less on a priority base:

Rome is heavenly when and if:

You can take part in or have a keen eye toward family life..a strong foundation and binding factor in Rome. Although I live by myself in an apartment in Battistini, my landlord and his family are great in every aspect: helpful, charming, invitations galore. As was the case with my Italian language teacher. Family matters, and that is a good thing..a rock so to speak. So much of this disappeared in my own country the Netherlands. It is still here...and of course families here meet on weekends...and stroll around town...and have lunch together. It is wonderful to see children taking their visibly very old parents to the 'ristorante' for 'pranzo' on Sunday noon... And the parents take care of the 'bambine'...always with a smile!

　

Food is being served; first of all the variety and composition of the meal, then the environment..eight months a year eating outside ; again within a family it is a bit better. Mama's cooking always has the reputation. What can come out of small kitchens is amazing. Definitely the food in Rome is the best I had all over the world. The seasonal variety is stunning. The delicatessen 'Castroni' in Prati / Cola di Rienzo is well worth a visit. And the wines...also exceptional; nearly as good as the French ones. The 'grappa' though is special..with what I drink: 'macchiato lungho'! And last but not least: ice cream always with a free plume of whipped cream. 'Lavazza cappuchino' brings memories to me as well. Finally...the pizzas by Gianni just around the corner are heavenly...his own recipes...like broccoli, shrimps, eggplant, porkmeat....most of these with 'mozarella di buffalo'. Delicious!

　

You can go, pray and feel the Vatican / 'Citta del Vaticano' ...the special atmosphere and the St. Peter's basilique where a long climb offers you one of the prime views over Rome; seeing Pope Benedict XVI nearly every Sunday is God's gift to the Romans and to the thousands of pilgrims. He blesses us all after his Sunday welcome. Singing in the choir of the 'Friezenkerk' next to the Vatican has added a special flavour for me. True....the beauty of the basilique and the State of the Holy See with all its museums and churches are worth a visit by itself.

　

You realise that the Romans are charming...not always when you approach them in a brusk manner...but when you use the words 'Scusa me....and Per favore'..with a smile, it is my experience that all are willing to help you. Even the notorious drivers do stop and try to avoid running over passengers....when you / as they themselves break the rules crossing the streets. And yes..Italian men do smile a lot in public to the ladies whereas the ladies do remain discrete.

　

You visit the huge number of historic sites, museums.....'old stuff'...some beautiful pieces right there in the streets...the 'Fontana di Trevi' at seven o'clock in the morning...just sit there and let it work its magic...Bernini was the sculptor. A complex, one in a life time beautiful piece of art; one wonders how man has been able to craft this out of marble. 'Piazza di Venezia'....and so on.....I became a specialist walking along the Tiber....a 21 kms foot and cycle path. The via Appia antica with the catacombs...and so on!

You enjoy the weather...always pleasant. Hot in July-August...cool but sunny around Christmas...bits of rain in March-April...never problematic. This year we had lots of snow for the first time in twenty years! Using my 'terrazzo' every day.

You know where to buy the better goodies...unfortunately there is no consistency in Rome...you can have a bad meal costing you a lot of money as well as the other way around. Italian (hand) made goods are still easy to find..and are often available in the sales. Tall men...watch out: all Italian shirts are slim fit... And my Italian dark blue handmade shoes are really beautiful; only I can't walk in them for more than an hour or so... painful!

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

　

Rome is a challenge when and if:

　

You think that it is pretty everywhere...certainly not, since the streets are full of cars...too many of them / a real nuisance / often double parked...who cares?? Incredible..I guess that 1% of the parked cars never moves anymore...perhaps 5% of the cars drive around uninsured... No, the cars have created havoc all over Rome

You think it is clean...forget it. All the garbage containers for all households plus 'ristorantes' are in the street / parked that is. And once a day or night with a lot of noise these are being emptied. An archaic system. Smelly as well. Takes up huge space in the streets. Definitely needs to change...I guess the Romans are used to this sore sight. Pity / 'peccato'!

You wish to use transport...only the limited two metro lines are on time. Tram, bus, trains..often late / not good enough for a world city. The 'Leonardo da Vinci Express' train from the Fiumicino airport to the Termini railway station in the city gives you the impression to ride a train in Belgium in 1970...although in those days there was no graffitti. Taxi drivers from the airport to town......the worst in Europe.. very dangerous. Definitely, many passengers are riding bus and tram freely without paying.. In one year I never saw a control.

　

You see all the illegal trade going on in the streets...everywhere. This must be a huge racket involving Italians (mafia?) at the top and illegal street hawkers selling cheap imported Chinese (counterfeit) goods...Interesting, also in Rome the bag-traders are the Senegalese. Recent statistics estimate over 60,000 Bangladeshis ...and you can see these in the streets; I assume many of there are illegal. I just do not get it...Expensive Italian made design ladies' handbags are difficult to sell when the counterfeit version is to be had for eight euros just around the corner...nearly every corner that is. The illegal import / trade kills Italy's renowned leather industry...under everybody's eyes...including the politicians. I simply do not understand that this is allowed to happen.

You want to go for a walk? Rome is not the place to be ..contrary to what many people/visitors think. The 'Centro storico' is quite astonishing...though cars are everywhere, and you'll be walking over unevenly laid and badly maintained cobble streets. Walking..an early walk is good..streets in the centre really get crowded with tourists as of ten o'clock onwards to seven in the evening. Better go for a long stroll or jog along the Tiber river...hardly anybody there!

Rome is tuning down...not doing well....its economy sliding....no money for maintenance...never nice to be in a place that does not improve; unless you are born and raised there..or you come for a few days only.....Many long term expats continue to adjust but dislike the 'running downhill' situation that they see all over. Nevertheless the eternal city attracts forever new generations of visitors....

　

Well I ran out of challenges....I guess this is a sign that Rome definitely remains a good place to be!!

　

Ton van Zutphen

13th June 2012

Roma, Italia

ton_van_zutphen@wvi.org

Via Francigena / a 2 days walk from Viterbo to Formello / Italy section 3-4 April 12

The two days walk from Viterbo to Formello along the ancient Via Francigena (VF) / Italy section

I must say I was not well prepared about the route.   My knowledge prior to this walk was pretty thin. It is not now!

One lesson from life in general and living in Italy in particular is that there is always a solution...and Italians indeed are ready to help...I even drove a km or so in a Lamborghini.....( a tractor...never knew that company made anything else than exclusive sports cars).

Arriving at the Tourist office in Viterbo..there was no info available for walkers like myself. I was handed a print-out from the web for the route Viterbo-Vetralla. And so I started.....nice weather, the usual gear, good mood.   I managed to understand the Italian info on the route map, however the combination of measured distances to specific topographical points, with the signs indicating the route itself soon led to confusion. In the end I did not use the print-out from the Tourist office and relied on my common sense.

Problem nr. 1  along the Via Francigena is that there are at least 7 different signs used that mark the route itself...at times conflicting...or not readable anymore. And where one must expect to see signs (crossroads...and where trails split... ) quite often there were none. Pretty chaotic. I got lost twice: pretty soon close to the autostrada 7 kms. out of Viterbo, where all signs had disappeared. I finally reestablished contact with the VF 4 kms. later after having taken a road that I thought would be going into the direction of Vetralla... The second time late in the afternoon on my way to Capranica where I lost track in the hazelnut groves: again all signs disappeared and I wandered for at least 30 minutes but could not find the VF. So I had to go to the main road leading into the town of Capranica where there was no hotel..... For 1 euro the bus and on to Sutri where day one ended with the best 'penne a la carbonara' I ever had in my life (ristorante l'Antitheatro). Interestingly, I never saw anybody walking the VF , not on day one, not on day two.

The first leg of day two from Sutri to Monterosi was fast in the cool morning; beautiful weather...the landscape though in general and throughout  is not exceptional. There is little agricultural activity..farms seem not buzzing. Lots of olive  and hazelnut groves. Watch out for the Maremma white big sheepdogs. At one time I had a 'sixpack' coming after me...just in time the farmer cried out to stop them approaching further. The second time one got close to about one meter and I was ready to jump across a fence. Again the farmer had heard the noise and came driving his car at full speed to help out. He apologised and offered me a drink on his farm, which I politely declined at 11 in the morning.

The walk through part of the Parco Natural di Veio is disappointing...the parc is now so natural that at some places I had to use my arms to get through the path. A pity; in fact the VF itself is not maintained at all. Worse is that I must have come across over 100 illegal dumps where furniture and all sorts of plastics etc. is disposed off. Disgusting and it clearly will stick into every walker's mind that the VF needs to be cleaned up. Walking up into Campagnolo from the valley is breathtaking. I arrived at the back of its medieval section....and was astonished to see all those tiny houses still being lived in. Want to buy cheap property, prepared to invest 50 thousand euro to do it up...? Campagnolo is a beautiful historical town! Loved walking through it.  

Another 10 kms. on to Formello where I was told there would be a hotel...very nice road, rolling hills, clean area....and when I arrived at 16.30 hrs...no hotel...so I decided to call it a day took the bus for 2 euros to travel the last 10 kms. to Rome and was back in my apartment at 7 in the eve.

Tired? Yes, an indicator of tiredness and the intensity of the day is when in the eve and after a shower you still feel that you have your cap on!!

Some stats:

Viterbo-Rome as the crow flies: 75 kms. / per autostrada 90 kms. and walking along the VF about 115 kms. all the way to the Vatican. I estimate my walking from Viterbo to Formello a total distance of 90 kms.

Equipment: Lowa Renegade light and high closing hiking boots with goretex and vibram soles, and my 'Feetures USA brand' socks proved a perfect choice. And  the  Rohde Hirschtalg cream to use before and after this 2 day's heavy duty walk. Feet need to be looked after!  I carried 5-6 kgs. of essentials in a cheap backpack

Please fellow walkers do note that except for the towns of Viterbo, Vetralla, Caparanica, Sutri, Monterosi, Campagnolo and Formello...you cannot buy anything along the road...and I saw no public drinking taps either... and the streams all looked polluted, and are full of discarded garbage.

Finally, and yes, since a lot in Italy is about food....I had my best ever 'cioccolata calda' in a whole in the wall cafetaria in Monterosi....

Ton van Zutphen

Via dei Sampietrini 19

00168 Roma, Italia

tonvanzutphen@gmail.com