The Korean War (1950-1953). A note on this Coldest and  Bloodiest War (in the 20th century)

by Ton van Zutphen (June 2023 Seoul / Leende)

CONTEXT 

I recall that the first Korean I ever talked with in detail in my life was Miss Biya Han who would later become my lawful wife in Seoul, 24th June 2021. We married by power of attorney in Korea, and our marriage was soon after registered in the village of Heeze-Leende, the Netherlands on 20th July 2021 (see at bottom of this blog for details on 'marriage with the glove').

We met in Herat, Afghanistan, 2nd week of February 2002. In the aftermath of the 9/11 attacks on important public buildings in 2001 in the USA by islamic terrorists linked to Al Qaeda, the USA decided immediately to invade Afghanistan, root out the suspected Osama Bin Laden group and destroy the Taliban regime that earlier had offered shelter to this dangerous anti Western Bin Laden / Al Qaeda organisation.

Let us not forget that the attacks in the USA nearly killed 3,000 people, and caused President George W. Bush to run over Afghanistan (with British troops as well) and launch the 'War on Terror'. In my function as Regional Humanitarian Director I convinced World Vision to open an office in Herat (coming in from Mashad, Iran), expecting a large movement of internally displaced persons (IDP's) once the Taliban was chased. And indeed this happened already by the end of November. A first and succesful emergency food distribution by World Vision was set up in the local sports stadium (where previously the Taliban on Fridays publicly hanged offenders against Islamic values). 

Gradually this aid programme developed with health and protection related activities and more distributions in kind, like clothing and eduaction materials. In February 2002, nearly three months after the beginning of this emergency programme I decided to see its progress and challenges for myself, and that's when I met Biya who was working out of the basement of the office making reports on financial contributions and projects that were initiated and supported by World Vision Korea. It was her first assignment in the humanitarian business and I had no idea about her background at all. She proved an eager learner and hard worker and we became good colleagues for more than 10 years. Only in June 2014 after meeting in Chang Mai, Thailand, did our relation become amorous. By then I had left World Vision International nearly one year ago and was working in Gaziantep, Turkey, again assisting in part refugees that came out of Syria and had fled the 'Caliphate' of IS (then ISIS or ISIL / 'Daesh' =Islamic State of Iraq and the Levant). 

So the above easily explains why I take an interest in many things 'Korean', including the country's (recent) history, of which the Korean War is a key moment in time. Much of the info and data provided below comes from 2 'handbooks' on this war, which destroyed the country (North and South) practically entirely. The story goes that in Pyongyang (now the capital of North Korea) only one building remained standing upright. And in the South only the Busan-Daegu perimeter (region) was never occupied by the Chinese/Korean communists (but flooded with internally displaced persons).

NEVER TO FORGET

The following figures have never been accepted by many parties but civilian casualties were higher than in WWII. Civilian casualties in North Korea (1953) were an estimated one million killed ( a similar number wounded), and 796.000 fled to the South; or went missing. Estimated population in 1950 in North Korea around 10 million people. Civilian casualties in South Korea (1953) were also an estimated one million killed (a similar number wounded) with only small numbers of civilians fleeing North. Estimated population in 1950 in South Korea around 20 million people. More than 900.000 Chinese soldiers are estimated to have died over a period of close to four years!

BOOKS TO READ

The Coldest War, America and the Korean War;       Book by  David Halberstam (2007)  

The Bloodiest War, the forgotten Dutch batallion;    Book by Robert Stiphout (2009) only in Dutch language  

Then a most interesting/fascinating book about daily life in North Korea, and vividly written, is by USA journalist Barbara Demick: 'Nothing to Envy', ordinary lives in North Korea (2009); it takes the reader through detailed narratives by families and individuals that fled North Korea by the turn of the last century. In a gripping way it sketches the situation of many Koreans (including soldiers from the South) in the sixties and seventies in North Korea, and later through the famine in the nineties.  

And worth consulting is the website of the United Nations Memorial Cemetery in Busan, Korea  www.unmck.or.kr. The burial grounds are impressive and give testimony to the 40,896 fallen UN forces.

 

IMAGES OF THE MAIN PLAYERS

President of the USA (1945-January 20, 1953)                       

Harry S.Truman (1884-1972)

President of the USA (January 20, 1953 - 1961) 

Dwight D. Eisenhower (1890-1969)

General US Army / removed from Command in Japan/Korea 11 April 1951

 Douglas MacArthur (1880-1964)   

General US Army 11 April 1951 - Command until armistice   27 July 1953

 Matthew Ridgway (1895-1993)  

General Secretary USSR (1924-1953)

 Joseph Stalin (1878-1953)

Founder, Premier, President North Korea (1948-1994)

Kim Il Sung (1912-1994)

President South Korea (1948-1960)      

Syngman Rhee (1875-1965)

Founder People's Republic of China, Chairman Communist Party (1949-1976)

Mao Tse Tung (1893-1976)

Generalissimo-Leader Republic of China (1928-1949), President Taiwan (1950-1975)

Chiang Kai Shek (1887-1975)

Prime Minister of the Netherlands (1948-1958)

Willem Drees (1886-1988)

Lt.Colonel Dutch Batallion 'van Heutz troops'     

Marinus den Ouden (1909-1951 killed in action Hongchon) 

Lt.Colonels Dutch Batallion  'van Heutz troops' (3 until armistice of July 27, 1953)

W. Eekhout, G. Christian, C. Schilperoord

Harry Truman, a much respected leader (Democratic party) who is remembered outside the USA for making the decision to use the atomic bomb against Japan, greatly engaged in rebuilding post-war Europe, and worked feverishly to contain and fight communism. In his memoirs he wrote that while visiting Prime Minister Drees in his simple living quarters in the Beeklaan, the Hague, NL, apparently Drees' wife opened the door and ushered Truman in, taking his hat and coat while offering a cup of tea. Truman mentioned that at that very moment he knew that the 'Marshall Plan Dollars' would be well spent by the Netherlands authorities! He was a man that was able to make firm decisions. Visitors could not avoid seeing the motto displayed on the presidential desk 'The Buck Stops Here'. 

Harry Truman

Dwight Eisenhower (Republican party) was a real warhorse and well known in Europe as the Surpreme Commander of the Allied Forces during WWII. He took over from Truman just before the armistice between North and South Korea. Nevertheless in Korea he fully supported Truman and his Commander General Ridgway. Eisenhower, alias 'Ike', set up the NASA and started the Inter State Highway system in the USA (which he copied in part from Hitler) and signed the Civil Rights Act of 1957. Equally important, he as an old soldier, kept the USA at peace and without external military enagements despite the serious threats by many independence movements/wars and communist challenges in many parts of the world.  Famous quote: 'A people that values its privileges above its principles soon loses both'.

Dwight Eisenhower

Douglas MacArthur, General, came from a well known and respected  American military family and made it all the way to the top, including as Surpreme Commander SouthWest Pacific Area (including Japan, China, Korea). Although immensely popular with the American people that gave him a hero status, MacArthur developed in the years running up to the Korean war an attitude that led him to think he was always right and of course his staff only remained when they proved full loyalty. This kind of arrogance and narcism led to a misinterpretation of military intelligence fom the battlefield in China and in Korea. He himself rarely traveled to Korea, preferring to remain in his HQ in Tokyo, Japan. It is fair to acknowledge that MacArthur did a sterling job to turn a feudal Japan into a country that started to accept democracy with the usual elments of parties/voting and representation. The emperor Hirohito was allowed to remain in a ceremonial function. But effectively MacArthur ruled! MacArthur was completely surprised when the Chinese massively and succesfully engaged in the war. Not believing signs from the field and trying to slowdown or even ignore decisions by the Truman government led to the removal of his command. The detailed analysis in Halberstam's book, staved with documents and portrayed through many personal interviews with his staff proved him to have made crucial mistakes that could have been avoided, had he used the information better that was offered to him. Clearly, because of this behaviour, and much of this by his own fault, the war in Korea exploded and became so bloody. An estimated 33.000 American soldiers died in it. Another 105.000 were wounded. Although MacArthur was able after the American landing and battles of Incheon/Seoul to turn the tide, it was too late: so many USA, South Korean and UN soldiers had died because his leadership in the Korean war was for a significant part guided on neglecting field related information and underestimating the strength and drive of the (Chinese) enemy. To no one's surprise he probably ended up a bitter man, feeling misunderstood, in particular by the politicians in Washington DC.   Famous quote: 'Old soldiers never die; they just fade away'. 

Douglas MacArthur

Matthew Ridgway, General, took over from MacArthur the surpreme command but had in fact already inside Korea halted the advance of the Chinese who had been close to taking Busan. The airpower of the US army and their new fresh recruits proved to be changemakers although many more soldiers died on the hills against the everready Chinese and North Koreans supplied in great numbers. Ridgway, alias 'Old Iron Tits' (he wore a pair of handgrenades over his battle dress) was a soldier's soldier, very close and supportive to his men. He had the full confidence of 'Washington'. As the war dragged on during 1952 and 1953 he was recalled and made Surpreme Allied Commander Europe for NATO in June 1953, just before the armistice. Famous quote: 'Your job as a soldier is to point that rifle into the other guy's face and shoot him dead'.  

 Matthew Ridgway

Joseph Stalin was born in what currently is the country of Georgia in the Caucasus. His leadership developed into an unprecedented ruthless dictatorship removing systematically all potential candidates that could become a threat to his position. He started the agricultural collectivization of the country (as a first step to an industrialization process), uprooting the farming system completely causing hunger, and death of an estimated 40 million farmers/families. He distrusted particularly ethnic minorities from the Caucasus and of people suspected to have been sympathizing with the Germans. He deported millions to Gulag camps and to the harsh Eastern regions of the USSR after WWII. All in all he can be held responsible for the death of more than 60 million citizens. He never trusted anyone, though agreed to a secret anti-agression pact with Germany's Hitler (to cut up Poland). Stalin did not believe in Mao's rural revolution (as a Marxist purist he only believed in the urban proletariat and its uprising). He looked down upon Mao and considered him an uneducated peasant. Initially he did not support Kim Il Sung's military ambitions. When he approved the attack on South Kores he refused to give Sung what he needed most: planes.  Famous quote: 'A single death is a tragedy. The death of millions is a statistic'.

Joseph Stalin

Kim Il Sung came to power after the end of the Japanese occupation in 1945 and swiftly organized the Worker's Party of (North) Korea, that was infused with communism. He was backed by Stalin and Mao and authorized the invasion of South Korea on June 25, 1950 convincing them he could take the complete Korean peninsula within a few weeks. Starting with 75,000 soldiers from North Korea, the Chinese then provided possibly all in all three million troops over a period of over three years, with mainly small weapons. The Russians provided tanks and only small weaponry. Had Kim Il Sung received what he wanted and needed most i.c. planes, the war could have indeed been over in a few weeks. Once the Americans reacted in full force and after an exorbitant high number of casualties on both sides for more than two years, the armistice between North and South was signed. As of 1953 Kim Il Sung governed for 45 years the Democratic People's Republic of Korea (DPRK), in reality a ruthless one party-one person dictatorship of what became one of the most isolated, extravagant and poorest countries in the world, where the individual never had any voice. The country turned into a family dynasty powerbase ever since, until today. Kim Il Sung, Kim Jung Il and currently Kim Jong Un. Controversial motto of Kim Il Sung: 'The people are my God'.

Kim Il Sung

Syngman Rhee was born into a noble family and educated by Methodist missionaries during which period he converted to Christianism and became a fervent nationalist, particularly against Russian and Japanese imperialis objectives. He graduated from Harvard and achieved a Doctorate from Princeton; all exceptional during the early years of the past century. He made it his life goal to find all over the world support for the Korean case against the Japanese occupation of Korea (1910-1945). During the Korean war he was able to convince the Americans for ever more support but by the end of the war his pushing for a military solution and his trying to stall peace negotiations made him controversial. The South Koreans lost 415,000 soldiers killed and had 429.000 wounded.  Nevertheless he remained firmly backed by American supporters and became their 'man in Seoul' after WWII. Once President from 1948 onwards his stardom faded quickly as he ventilated constantly criticism toward various US governments but the USA had no alternative: Rhee was 'their son of a bitch' (originally a quote from President Franklin D. Roosevelt about Nicaraguan dictator Anastazio Somoza in 1939). During the last ten years of his Presidency he also became a dictator, and surrounded by sycophants purged the National Assembly members who opposed his rule. It all ended with his exile to Hawai in April 1960, where Rhee died in 1965.  Interesting quote: 'Communism is cholera and you cannot compromise with cholera'. 

Syngman Rhee

Mao Tse Tung was and remains a legend about whom only recently and sparsely important verifiable and objective details have been established and published. When I started at university in 1969, his heroism, strategic and tactical insights (illustrated through the Long March) against the feudal, corrupt and capitalist order which had exploited rural China for centuries, was unquestionable. So be it. Then when Mao took the reins in 1948 as Chairman Mao (until his death in 1976) he enforced a command economy with industrialization and building up military puissance, while supporting worldwide independence movements with weapons and advisors. One of his first targets was to turn Korea into a communist state (mirroring China with its Marxis-Leninist ideology); and he almost succeeded. Mao is estimated to have sent perhaps three million 'volunteers', mainly foot soldiers into battle. Americans estimate that some 1.5 million Chinese and North Koreans died. China had unlimited resources of soldiers/peasants who had no other choice than fight against 'American capitalist imperialism' in Korea.  And Mao appeared not to care for his (individual) people: 'The Great Leap Foreward' (1958-1963) that aimed to turn China 'overnight' from a rural into an industrial society caused the largest famine ever recorded on earth. Again, estimates of deaths vary between 15 and 50 million people. Offical records from China have never been shared / totally unknown as if none of it happened. One more serious criticism about Mao is mentioned by Halberstam: 'Mao lived like a sexual predator, relentlessly devouring peasant women, who were eager to serve their leader and thus their nation in whatever way he suggested'.  And this in the light of Mao's propaganda machine that ordered women to be equally treated and for which he was deeply admired and respected in the Western world, again by almost all students, socialists, and basically those considering themselves 'left' in the spectrum of international and national politics. Mao's myth has in fact now ended; except in China. Famous quote: 'Political power grows out of the barrel of a gun'.   

Mao Tse Tung

Chiang Kai Shek was never directly involved with his troops during the Korean war although at several periods he had offered to do so. Once it became clear that Mao's China engaged fiercely and massively inside Korea, the attention nearly automatically focussed a bit on what the Taiwanese leader was considering doing. When the Korean war broke out in June 1950, the American government (with MacArthur) had not given up as yet to fight the regime established so recently by Mao. A strong political lobby in Washington existed; initial funds had been made available to the 'Chinese nationalists' of Chiang but nothing serious ever materialized. Chiang was 'old hat', caught in his own political and corrupt past. During the second half of the 1950ies Taiwan, with the support of the USA developed its own brand of 'nationalism' and the country became very succesful in terms of governance and prosperity. Controversial quote from Chiang Kai Shek:  'War is not only a matter of equipment, artillery, group troops or air force; it is largely a matter of spirit, or morale'.

Chiang Kai Shek

THE KOREAN WAR ITSELF  (1950-1953) / THE KEY EVENTS AND AFTERMATH

On August 14, 1945 Japanese emperor Hirohito announced Japan's surrender in Korea over the radio. In the Northern part of the country the Russians (sharing a 17 kms narrow border with Korea) had advanced with tanks and artillery against the Japanese a few weeks before they surrendered, whilst in the Southern part the Americans had liberated the country from the vicious Japanese occupation. Very soon the US government, not willing to face the Russian advance, proposed that the Russians administer the Northern half in what was supposed to be a temporary trusteeship. Therefore an agreement was signed on the map along the line of the 38th Parallel, cutting the country into two different sphere of influence: one suggesting a Russian style communism, the other following the US capitalist approach. Both Syngman Rhee and Kim Il Sung totally rejected this divide and stood up (not in arms) by mobilizing their supporters against it. To no avail: gradually the schism between the two ideological systems deepened and once Kim Il Sung received the formal approval (with tanks, artillery and munition) from Stalin to go the war, he attacked the South.  

1.  Military historians now agree that the USA made a capital strategic error in January 1950 by not including South Korea in America's Asian defense perimeter. As a result there were only US advisors and some platoons training the South Korean army in the country when the North Koreans attacked. This led Stalin to believe that the USA was not preparing to come to the rescue of such a small and rather insignificant country. The onus of the USA was on the new Republic of China, Taiwan, the rebuilding of Japan, and to a lesser extent on Indonesia. Kim Il Sung convinced Stalin in 1949 that he could take the whole of Korea with his communist troops (inlcuding ethnic Koreans from China who had fought with Mao and were battle hardened) in a week or two. He also rather naively expected the farmers in the South to massively joing the 'communist case'.

2. General MacArthur, away and residing in Japan, in another world, and at odds and disagreeing with the Washington based government, had his eye on advancing as far as the Yalu river, bordering China (Manchuria). Early in 1950 the South Koreans (ROK) forces were able to win large tracts of terrain until at Unsan some 40 kms South of the Chinese border they and their US advisors met with fierce resistance and had to withdraw South. MacArthur took intelligence reports of a North Korean military build-up reinforced with Chinese 'volunteers' not serious. When the North Koreans attacked on June 25, 1950 a devastating blow came and the ROK army and their small contingent of US military found itself up against a very motivated military force. The South Korean army was obviously ill prepared, with old weaponry and not capable to resist. Kim Il Sung took Central Korea in a few days only, and moved swiftly toward the bigger prize that was Busan, the main port of Korea. The famous Busan perimeter where ROK and hastily brought in American GI's with lots of hardware were concentrated, could just about be saved during August, and that along the Naktong river. Then the Americans went out to a full blown war, but initially were ill prepared. Kim Il Sung threw all his 13 divisions (some estimated 175.000 soldiers) into the final battle on August 31, but by then the Americans/ROK/UN troops were better informed and equipped, and could hold their stand.

3. The Incheon landing and turning of the tide as of 15th September 1950. This proved to be the breakthrough against the North Koreans and the last daring and succesful military feat of MacArthur. With hindsight it somehow/with luck turned out a straightforward logistical amphibious landing operation (the North Koreans and Russians did not believe the Americans would do it). The flats around Incheon provided the possibility of a speedy march to Seoul some 35 kms. East, and to cut and slice the North Korean armies in two halves, which gravely impacted their supply lines. The Americans this time were able to use their superior weapons in large quantities (with air support) and advanced as planned: in a few days they occupied Gimpo airport, and in just over two weeks they secured Seoul, the capital without much casualties. 

4. On to the 38th Parallel and beyond. Mac Arthur's orders were to proceed military beyond the agreed 38th Parallel but to avoid any confrontation with the Chinese and Russians because any such confrontation could lead for the Americans and the UN to be sucked into an even bigger war. Again it was at this time that Macarthur's initiatives upset the US administration and led to his downfall: he appeared to ignore the orders to avoid military contact close to the Chinese border / too close for comfort it indeed was in the eyes of Mao. And Mao threw in 12 divisions of soldiers (more than 150,000 soldiers) starting to cross the Yalu river South of the Chinese border on 19th October without making contact with the Americans; the North Koreans were not in command anymore, it was now a Chinese war by Mao and his succesful General Peng, against the Americans/UN forces. Since Mao did not mind loss of life for his soldiers he kept sending new divisions across the North as of 25th November as they moved South, against heavy losses by US firepower. Then Mao had the advantage of a huge surprise attack since the Americans still did not believe the Chinese would go to war. It was bitterly cold, the Americans were about to fight in hostile and dangerous hilly and rocky terrain. And it proved quickly that their tanks and large artillery were difficult to manoeuver against the hordes of Chinese soldiers who preferably fought during the night, and kept coming hill after hill that they took back.

5. The advance of the Chinese army went on and on and the Americans/UN troops had to retreat 160 kms in 10 days only! It was later called the 'Big Bugout' with huge losses on both sides fighting over hills, passes and rivers such as Chongchon River, South of Unsan again, Hagaru, Kunuri, the Funchilin Pass, the Chosin Reservoir, Pyongyang the North Korean capital, and Kanyon-dong to name a few locations. It remained bitterly cold with more than often temperatures dropping below 25 degrees Celsius at night. The bloody war, man against man using handgrenades and bajonets had become the norm. On 31st December 1950 the Chinese and North Korean armies had reached roughly the 38th Parallel and now it was them who did not want to stop in their drive Southwards. 

6. By early February 1951 the Americans and Chinese knew that who would won the 'Central Corridor' (a hilly/mountaineous area East of Seoul through Chipyongni, Wonju and Hongchon) would then be able to move Southwards direction Busan and take the port. Again with hindsight, the Americans had full air supremacy, their supply lines had improved enormously, their weaponry modernized and their command structure changed with a new field commander Matthew Ridgway inside Korea; in summary they had some clear advantages. Mao still believed that his numerous soldiers would make the difference and threw more and more divisions into the upcoming battles. Mao (against the arguments of his experienced General Peng) was convinced the war was nearly won and he ignored the issue of bad supply lines and inferior equipment. The Chinese army had no aircraft either! From the first week of February until the the end of the third week huge battles raged in now infamous locations like the Twin Tunnel Pass, Chipyongni, Hongchon, McGee Hill, and the outskirts of Wonju. Peng threw his best soldiers at a modern US/UN army. And was close to victory. Then the Americans had a stroke of luck at daylight as they were able to neutralize some 15,000 footsoldiers with equipment on the move to Wonju. Some analysts say this avoided the town of Wonju to be taken by the Chinese and meant that the Chinese had to regroup/withdraw whilst the UN forces were able to make their stand in the Chipyongni and Hongchon areas (see below the crucial support by the Dutch batallion). Interestingly, during these battles the Americans added a new weapon the Chinese came to fear: a jellied death that American planes spread from the air and which burned out entire units. It was called napalm.

7. The Dutch batallion and its fighting is described with excellent and relevant detail in the book by historian Robert Stiphout 'The Bloodiest War', the Forgotten Batallion of Dutch soldiers in Korea'. Sadly the adjective 'forgotten' can relate to the Dutch politicians (the agreed budget to support the mission was never fully spent....those stingy Dutch!), to the Dutch historians, to the lack of education about it in our schools (I can hardly remember it being mentioned in my history classes), to the decision makers to support the Batallion financially in the Netherlands (and later the soldiers and their families upon their return!), to the Dutch press and journalists at the time, to the general public, but most prominently to the soldiers themselves who (had volunteered) and had fought so bloody hard in lands they would never had imagined so different from anywhere they had been before.

Prime Minister Netherlands: Willem Drees

 The first full batallion of about 700 soldiers consisted of experienced men, most of whom had fought in WWII and in the Dutch East Indies. They were tough and fearless. Nevertheless they had never fought in such a severe cold and up against Chinese who kept coming and coming during the nigthly attacks.  I assume that also other UN troops like the Belgians, Turks, Thai, French and others may have felt similar like the Dutch that at times they were sent to do some very specific 'sheer impossible' and dangerous attacks for the commanding US army. 

Commander Marinus den Ouden, Lt.Col./ killed in action at Hongchon

The 'Dutchies' fought with distinction at the following crucial battles: 'the hell of Hongchon'; Hill number 325 Northwest of Wonju; the Chosin Reservoir line defense; and they secured the advance in the area around Inje and Taeusun Mountain (to put pressure on the peace negotiation table in the near future!).  Nevertheless the Dutch batallion was constantly understaffed, lacking munition at times and often without air-support. The individual stories in the book relay a horrendous experience for all of them, including those who were not supposed to fight (like cooks, medical staff, drivers, mechanics ...more than once they had to as well!). The hardships as described about long nightly marches, lack of food and rest, constant pressure from commanders, and a around the clock danger to keep their lives from the Chinese soldiers, snipers and the firing of mortars. All in all, over a period of over three years 4748 Dutch military participated in the war. Far more importantly though, from November 1950 to August 1951, and during the height of the war the 700 soldiers batallion lost half of its men! 63 Soldiers were killed in action, three missing in action, one taken prisoner by the North Koreans, 135 wounded and unable to continue fighting, with another 153 too sick to continue fighting.  All in all the dead, wounded, missing in action, and the sick, counted for half the batallion of 700 pacs. Soldiers felt about Korea: too many mountains and hills, too cold, too many marches, too few rest periods, too many Chinese, and too few Dutch soldiers.

Names of Dutch soldiers buried at UN forces cemetery in Busan
background Bona Han and Anton van Zutphen

The books by Halberstam and Stiphout give testimony of heroism by individual soldiers fighting for a cause very far away from their own fatherland. Impressive and never to forget!

 8. By the end of February 1951 the Americans were certain they could contain the Chinese armies and the Truman administration sent a secret cable to MacArthur (still in Japan as surpreme commander) on March 20 that it felt the time was now right for a major peace initiative. MacArthur's response in a letter made public was a full disagreement and he argued that China without a manufacturing base for modern weapons was not able to resist the US army. Truman called it 'rank insubordination' and it torpedod the General's military position and future. On April 11 he was removed from power and called back to the States. 

9. The battle of Chipyongni end of February 1951 signalled the beginning of a new stage: each side had neutralized the other and certainly the Americans were unwilling to risk many more lives. The Chinese dared a major attack in May with some 300.000 soldiers which the Americans were able to stop. Chinese losses were horrific according to the US military. There continued small battles here and there but the war had grinded to a standstill. By then the US had not formally recognised the Republic of China (Taiwan was the 'official China') and although initial armistice talks started mid July in Kaesong, just South of the 38th Parallel, distrust was great and talks were soon moved to Panmunjom in the no-man's land of the 38th Parallel. The repatriation of POW's was problematic from the onset and was never really implemented. In fact tens of thousands of South Korean soldiers ended up in North Korea for the rest of their lives to become and remain with their families for ever third rate citizens there. Most were relocated to the rural areas far away from Pyongyang and to the North where the winters are long and severe and where many were assigned to work in the mines. Then in 1953 Stalin suddenly died and the pressure to continue fighting became less. Some heavy battles like the one during which the Chinese tried to take Pork Chop Hill in April, and again early July 1953 still raged. The Americans and Britisch finally left the hill a few days before the truce was signed on July 27, 1953. 

A cruel war had ended with a truce no one (in particular Kim Il Sung and Syngman Rhee) was happy with.

10. The war benefitted China greatly and although an estimated one million Chinese soldiers died and a similar number wounded, its outcome was that the Chinese were able to hold their stand against the US/UN troops. Mao felt this as a success and he established himself as the one great leader. The Russians had lost their influence since they had not supported China with air power nor with boots on the ground. The North Koreans were at the end of the war completely at the mercy of the Chinese. The US had never before in history lost so many troops over such a short period and had greatly underestimated the Chinese and North Korean forces. Kim Il Sung was able to establish his dynasty ruthlessly and developed his own model of totalitarianism. Syngman Rhee had to depend on the US initiatives to rebuild the country. North and South Korea effectively became two very different countries as basically most, if not all communication between the two came to a standstill.

11. My wife's family (father's side) hails from the inland region of Hamhung (a coastal city in North Korea). For multiple generations they owned land and as such were immediately suspect when Kim Il Sung started to introduce communism in 1945. Definitely their lands must have been confiscated. Biya's grandfather and wife had two sons and one young daughter. The middle son was Biya's father. Grandfather, a scholar and wise man, decided to send his middle son to university in Busan (South Korea), probably around 1948 (family coping mechanism). He was a serious student, married his university sweetheart and became a well known and respected journalist in Seoul. Even before the war started in 1950, communication had become difficult with the family in North Korea. Biya, nor anybody else in her family ever found out what happened to the family in North Korea. There has never been contact, and although Biya has been to North Korea twice on governmen related missions it proved impossible to find out anything about grandfater's family. Such is the sad reality for millions of Koreans from both North and South.

Without going into details from 1953 to 2023, and over a period of 70 years the following stands out: 

South Korea shed various (military) dictatorships but by the end of the eighties had transferred into a democratic society. I do remember clearly that when I was a student at university (1969-1975) we witnessed on tv the ferocious student uprisings against the dicatator Park Chung Hee (President from 1962-1979 until his assasination). Violent streetfighting seemed the norm during these protests and were very different from most of  the peace/compromise infused protests of the students in the NL. Many of my wife's close friends/students were rounded up by the military in that period, were tortured and spent time in jail. We should not forget that also in Europe we had after WWII our share of dictators who ruled harshly against their opponnents and critizers: what about Franco in Spain, Salazar in Portugal, Ceaucescu in Rumania, and Jaruzelski in Poland? Nowadays, South Korea is the bright star of all Eastern Asia countries: it is now a valuable member of the UN and of the G20, a leading country in Asia, producing a huge variety of crucial products like automobiles, home appliances, chips, smart phones, and even the money spinning K-pop music culture (like 'BTS' and 'Black Pink'). Its population is highly educated and well off. Population stands at 52 million in 2023 / men and women live very long....well into their eighties. One cannot deny the following fact: those (small) countries supported strongly by the USA/Western world have done remarkably well in Eastern Asia such as Taiwan, Singapore, HongKong (former crown colony of the UK), though others less so like the Philippines and Malaysia. 

North Korea continues to struggle against deep entrenched poverty and the country went through a number of famines, although immediately after the Korean war Kim Il Sung made fast and good progress providing basic education and health services for all. Then, the break-up of the USSR in 1991 impacted heavily on the North Korean economy: no more loans and no oil, medecines, raw materials without cash payments. The country then lost its momentum and remained unable to recover. The Kim family rules as never before with its nationalist, quasi independent Korean styled ideology of home grown communism / called 'juche' ideology. It tries to keep its population isolated. Additionally it shoots off all kinds of technically advanced rockets direction Japan these days. Population stands at 26 million in 2023 and average life expectancy is about 70. 

From where I sit in Seoul and in the Netherlands, a reunification is not about to happen: the Korean war is now long time past / some 70 years. Most North Koreans would not know how to adjust to the fast and professional South Korean working approach. Young people in Seoul hardly ever mention North Korea to me.  Life has moved on. For most people around the world it is now a forgotten war.

Blog written in Seoul and Leende, the Netherlands.

Finished 24th June 2023 just before 25th June (annual Memorial Day in South Korea to remember the war and its dead, wounded and missing), and just before my wife Biya Han celebrates her 65th anniversary on 26th June. 

Comments and suggestions to correct where I made errors will be appreciated. Or write to tonvanzutphen@gmail.com

 

Marriage by Proxy / Glove / Handschoen.      In Dutch language 'trouwen met de handschoen' literally means 'marrying with the glove', and means a proxy marriage. People marry 'with the glove' if they cannot be in the same location during the marriage ceremony. The bride or groom is represented by someone with a power of attorney. Originally, a glove was displayed to signify the absent party, hence the informal name of this ceremony.  'Trouwen bij volmacht', 'with the glove' was quite usual in the Netherlands from 1890-1940 when (mostly) young males left for the Dutch East Indies as civil servants or soldiers leaving their fiancees behind...whose families were often eager to have their girls married 'with the glove', so they could more easily join their new husbands later.    

 A note on the music of Bob Dylan and his excellent, inspiring book 'The Philosophy of Modern Song'.

by Ton van Zutphen, April 2023

Dylan early years when he was 20 years young?

No way I will try to add another 'personal analysis' amongst the hundreds that already exist about the man Bob Dylan and his music...and his impact on Western music at large. 

To be frank, much of the text in his songs I never understood, and still do not, although my English is reasonably ok. 

Therefore I was astonished to read that Dylan in 2016 was awarded the Nobel Prize in literature. Amongst the hullaballoo that followed his recognition, Dylan himself remained silent and only about a year later he travelled to Stockhom to receive the award in person. By then the media interest had died down. And yes I was also surprised...did he deserve, as the Nobel committee mentioned that he, Bob Dylan 'had created new poetic expressions within the great American song tradition'?  

This Jewish boy from Duluth 'the Iron Range' in the State of Minnesota, USA,  name of Robert Allen Zimmerman, made it to the top and is without doubt one of the most well known, successfull, and extra ordinary singer-songwriters of the past and current century.  

I never read the books Dylan wrote, I never read a biography about him either but I did buy and read his latest book 'The Philosophy of Modern Song', a 'tour de force' affirming that Mr. Dylan does know intimately about (all kinds of) music and does know how to write about it. It took him 10 years to write it and definitely the way in which this book is carefully written, crafted and presented, gives me the certainty that this book will once again contribute to his name and fame. At present Dylan's oeuvre amounts to over 600 songs he wrote and sang himself; and this over a period of well over 60 years. 

It renders hommage to the American traditional and modern music with only a few songs from Europe. Dylan has done his homework and includes a detailed historical perspective with many references on every one of the 66 songs he chose.

And then the book includes relevant and historical illustrations, mostly photographs and posters, supporting the texts. Impressive also!   Great examples include:

- Poster of Jesse and Frank James, Dead or Alive 5.000 $ for either one of them brothers, referring to the song 'Jesse James' by Harry McClintock (1928)  

- Photograph of Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton, referring to the song 'Cheaper to keep Her' by Johnnie Taylor (1973)

- Photograph of Fidel Castro, referring to the song 'CIA Man' by the Fugs (1967)

- Picture of a US Silver Dollar (In God We Trust), referring to the song 'Midnight Rider' by the Allman Brothers (1970).

Different styles and songs on anti-establishment, folk, blues, ballroom music by crooners, country and bluegrass, slow love songs, rockabilly, rock, rock and roll, country rock, 'Motown sound', protest songs, gospel, ballads, cowboy songs, anti-war songs ....what else or what more?

From Dylan's choice of 66 songs only  18 feature in my personal Top 2000, and 29 of the songs Dylan describes and analyses were totally unknown to me.

On a score of 0 to 10 I ranked all the songs separately and came to 425 points out of a max. of 660 points. This is an average of 6,44 points out of the maximum score of 10. Following songs are close to my heart and most of these feature in my personal Top 2000

The Temptations with 'Ball of Confusion' (1970)           scoring 9 points

Jimmy Reed  with 'Big Boss Man' (1960)                       scoring 9 points

Bobby Bare with 'Detroit City'(1963)                             scoring 8 points

Little Richard with 'Tutti Frutti'(1955)                            scoring 8 points

Elvis Presley with 'Money Honey'(1956)                       scoring 8 points

The Grateful Dead with 'Truckin' (1970)                        scoring 8 points

Domenico Mudogno with 'Volare' (1958)                      scoring 8 points

Roy Orbison with 'Blue Bayou' (1963)                          scoring 8 points

The Allman Brothers with 'Midnight Rider'(1970)         scoring 8 points

Carl Perkins with 'Blue Suede Shoes (1956)                  scoring 8 points

Warren Zevon with 'Dirty Life and Times' (2003)           scoring 8 points

John Trudell with 'Doesn't Hurt Anymore' (2001)           scoring 8 points

Little Walter with 'Key to the Highway'(1958)               scoring 8 points

Ernie K-Doe with 'A Certain Girl' (1961)                       scoring 8 points

Santana with 'Black Magic Woman' (1970)                    scoring 8 points

Frank Sinatra with 'Strangers in the Night'(1966)          scoring 8 points

Elvis Presley with 'Viva Las Vegas'( 1964)                    scoring 8 points

The Drifters with 'Saturday Night at the Movies' (1964)   scoring 8 points

Then there are a few songs ranked very low by me because I could not fathom really what Bob meant when he selected these...at least not using my criteria that include melody, originality, authenticity, rhythm, style, text, presentation, recording quality:

Billy Joe Shaver with 'Willy the Wandering Gypsy and Me (1973)  scoring 4 points

Bing Crosby with 'Whiffenpoof Song'(1947)                                     scoring 3 points only

Johnnie Ray with 'The Little White Cloud that Cried'(1951)            scoring 4 points

The bulk of the scores are 7 and 6 with a few songs scoring 5 points.

Now, after reading and digesting his book I believe Dylan wanted to create with his extensive historical and anecdotal knowledge an overview of relevant songs, relevant to the society during a special period. Each song seems to develop a theme and is analysed against the period during which it was popular or important like, again only a few examples:

- War, and what is it good for?, referring to the song 'War' by Edwin Starr (1970) with Vietnam in the background

- Life of artists on the road, referring to the song 'Gypsies, Tramps & Thieves by CHER (1971)

- Impossible love, referring to the song 'El Paso' by Marty Robbins (1959)

Texts pertaining to the songs in the book are more than often difficult to understand if one is oblivious of USA history. Then the vocabulary used is full to the brim with American slang and sayings. I love it! Here are some examples of it:

- A world of small-time petty criminals, sneak thieves, gangster pimps, pickpockets, cigar-puffing killers; the subculture that Hitlerism put and end to. This refers to the song 'Mack the Knife' by Bobby Darin (1959)

- It's rolling like a ball and you're packed inside of it. You're walking unsteady, get going they say, and you're marching along, confiding in the great Googa Mooga, your personal deity. This refers to the song 'Ball of Confusion' by The Temptations (1970). 

- One of the reasons people turn away from God is because religion is no longer in the fabric of their lives. It is presented as a thing: it is Sunday we have to go to church. Or, it is used as a weapon of threat by political nutjobs on either side of every argument. But religion used to be the water we drank, the air we breathed. This refers to the song 'If you don't know me by now' by Harold Melvin & The Blue Notes (1972).

Dylan can write!

                                                           Dylan in his late twenties

In my personal Top 2000 listing I have included the following songs composed and sung by Bob Dylan; 26 in total

Ranking    0008   Desolation Row (1965)

                  0055   Like a Rolling Stone (1965)

                  0166   Maggie's Farm (1965)

                  0280   She belongs to Me (1965)

                  0429   Blowin' in the Wind (1963)

                  0627   I'll be your Baby Tonight (1967)

                  0718   Lay Lady lay (1969)

                  0781   Visions of Johanna (1966)

                  0787   Just like a Woman (1966) 

                  0797   I am a lonesome Hobo (1967)

                  0821   I want You (1966)

                  0852   Everybody must get stoned (1966)

                  0899   I threw it all away (1969)

                  0920   Tangled up in blue (1974)

                  0973   Dear Landlord (1967)

                  0977   Subterranean Homesick Blues (1965)

                  1018   John Wesley Harding (1967) 

                  1089   It ain't me Babe (1964) 

                  1109   Highway 61 revisited (1965)

                  1160   Drifter's Escape (1968)

                  1307   If not for You (1970)

                  1370   Boots of Spanish Leather (1964)

                   1425   Romance in Durango (1976)

                   1737   Girl from the North Country (1964)

                   1801   Mozambique (1976) 

                    1944   Ballad of Frankie Lee and Judas Priest (1967)

Once again, let me give you just 3 examples out of thousands that illustrate the mystifying poetic texts that sprouted out of Dylan's brain...all of these texts are unique, of celestial beauty, and some carry one-liners never to forget.

- From the song 'Maggie's Farm' (1965):

I ain't gonna work on Maggie's farm no more, No, I ain't gonna work for Maggie's brother no more,

Well, he hands you a nickel, He hands you a dime,

He asks you with a grin, If you're having a good time,

Then he fines you every time you slam the door, I ain't gonna work for Maggie's brother no more

- From the song 'She belongs to Me' (1965):

She's got everything she needs, she's an artist, she don't look back

She can take the dark out of the nighttime, and paint the daytime black

She never stumbles, she's got no place to fall

She's nobody's child, the law can't touch her at all

She wears an Egyptian ring, it sparkles before she speaks

She's a hypnotist collector, you are a walking antique

- From the song 'If not for you' (1970): 

If not for you, Babe, I couldn't even find the door

I couldn't even see the floor, I'd be sad and blue, if not for you

If not for you, the winter would hold no spring

Couldn't hear a robin sing, I just wouldn't have a clue, if not for you

Absolutely creative and innovative language, often a 'Wordspiel', and at times incomprehensible but inviting you to think about the possible meaning. 

To be able to contextualize Dylan's early music (his folk and protest songs) one has to listen to Woody Guthrie, a US folksinger. In Europe we would call Guthrie a musician with a rather socialist approach in his songs = standing up for the voiceless and disadvantaged (the poor folks) and singing about the profound reasons why especially rural folks are poor and remain so. And he clearly expressed his opinion in his famous and popular song 'This land is your land' that everybody should have equal rights 'from the Californias to the New York island; from the redwood forests to the gulfstream waters, this land was made for you and me'. He wrote this song in 1940, just like many of his other prominent songs during the second World War. 

This most famous song (beautifully covered also by Trini Lopez in 1960), and others such as 'Hard ain't it hard?', 'I ain't got no home', 'Jesus Christ', and 'Do Re Mi' (about the infamous drought in the US MidWest during the 1930ies and the run toward California), are all songs that made it into my Top 2000. In the USA after the war, Woody Guthrie was shunned as a communist, unfortunately and incorrectly so. In 1962 Dylan wrote 'Song to Woody' to honour Woody Guthrie as a fellow singer songwriter, performer of protest songs and activist. 

Clearly my selection does not cover the 60 plus years that Dylan has been 'operational and on stage': meaning writing, performing and arranging new songs. Only during my studies at Nijmegen University, NL and one, perhaps two years earlier at college (period 1967-1975) did I listen frequently to his songs. Readers may note that one of Dylan's most articulate and famous songs 'The Times they are A-changin' (1964) is missing. In this song his voice is very raw, unpolished...and I never was able to appreciate the music of this song. I guess it was all about the text and in 1964 I was still a junior at college, an adolescent listening to Roy Orbison, Elvis Presley, Fats Domino, Chuck Berry and Buddy Holly, more rock and roll. 

When I was 15 years young (1966), little did I know about civil rights and anti-war movements, or 'counterculture'. All I knew was what I picked up at college during formal lessons about the history of the USA. And these lessons focussed on how great America was because of its economic and military puissance, and that they liberated Europe twice from the Germans (in 1918 and in 1945), and how badly they treated the Indians, how they fought amongst themselves during the Civil War for 4 years (1861-1865), how they had kept black people in slavery and now legally accepted equality of the races, and how they were fighting 'the commies' = communism, mainly from the Soviet Union/USSR. And,that we as Dutch were good friends and supporters of the American system and its population. The US President, John F. Kennedy (JFK) was extremely popular in the NL (increasingly so after his speech in West Berlin, Germany in 1963, during which he spoke these famous words in German 'Ich bin ein Berliner'. His popularity later rose to mythical proportions after he was assassinated in Dallas that same year 1963 on November 22. I still remember the special anouncement while at school when it was made public. Literally everybody was shocked and for weeks it remained the topic of the day at school and at home! It was never found out who killed JFK.

Dylan played with several legendary musicians like the Canadian group 'The BAND', Johnny Cash and Mark Knopfler, lead guitarist of 'Dire Straits', to name a few.

So my Top 2000 also features quite a few songs that Dylan wrote but were performed by other musicians. I decided to include these songs from other artists; some examples are:

Ranking 0007 played by The BAND:  'When I paint my Masterpiece'(1971)

Ranking 0066 played by THEM: 'It's all over now Baby Blue' (1965)

Ranking 1363 in a version by Brian Ferry:  A hard Rain's gonna fall (1973) 

Ranking 1508 played by Mark Knopfler and Bob Dylan: 'Knockin' on Heaven's Door'(1996)

Then the USA West Coast Band 'The BYRDS' covered quite a lot of songs written by Dylan. The following are included in my Top 2000:

- You ain't going nowhere (Dylan 1967)

- Nothing was delivered (Dylan 1967)

- My Back Pages (Dylan 1964)

- All I really want to do ( Dylan 1964) = one of my all time favourites!

- Mr. Tambourine Man  (Dylan 1965)

Dylan's composition 'Quinn the Eskimo (the Mighty Queen), a beautiful rag rhythm song from his album  'The Basement Tapes' in 1967, was succesfully covered by Manfred Mann a year later who made a big charts hit out of it. 

In 1968 the famous 'Jimi Hendrix Experience' band covered the Dylan song 'All along the Watchtower' : indeed some say the most electrifying cover that exists! A remarkable version also because 'The Experience' consisted of only three bandmembers. 

And in 1969 the English band 'Fairport Convention' covered the song 'Million Dollar Bash' in a jolly playful  folk-rock style.

Other rare and stunningly beautiful covers are:

Nico,  with 'I'll keep it with mine' (1967) / sounds very much like Nico/Velvet Underground

Elvis Presley,  with 'Tomorrow is a long Time' (1966) / possibly Dylan's favorite cover version

Nina Simone,  with 'Just like Tom Thumb's Blues' (1969) / Nina at her best!

Jim James & CALEXICO,  with 'Goin' to Acapulco' (2007) /  superb singing and orchestration.

The following song is mentioned twice in this blog: 'Desolation Row'. Dylan's original ranks #0008 in my Top 2000; then recently I discovered the unusual and magnificent version by singer Bobby Woods (covered in 2018). What a voice too!  

Ranking  #1215 performed by Joan Baez: 'Sad eyed Lady of the Lowlands'(1968) Then the 'exotic looking lady with the angelic voice' Joan Baez with whom Bob Dylan had an intimate but streneous relationship also wrote a beautiful and sad song about him: ranking # 0213: 'Diamonds and Rust' (1975). 

Quite a few musical experts strongly suggest that the song 'Visions of Johanna' by Dylan then refers to Joan Baez.

All in all, in this blog I mentioned  45 songs that Dylan wrote; possibly a nice selection for a unique CD or to be put on a usb-stick?  Songs mentioned by me cover less than 8% of Dylan's complete oeuvre.

And I am quite certain that at any of his thousands of concerts and gigs Dylan  must have covered songs written by Woody Guthrie.

Dylan and Baez, around 1965

Dylan continues touring the world and he will play at the Montreux Jazz Festival in Switzerland this year 2023 during early summer. Although my daughter Kesso Gabrielle lives in this pittoresque town on the Geneva Lake and only half a mile from the theater where he is scheduled to perform....will I go and see him?  Will I be able to go and even get a ticket? Who will play this year...Bob Dylan (his tour is called 'Rough and Rowdy Ways'), also Iggy Popp, Norah Jones, Simply Red, Lionel Richie, Chris Isaak, Buddy Guy, Gilberto Gil and many other celebrities. 

Dylan in his mid seventies

Dylan will be 83 years when he performs in Montreux; not a small feat! 

My personal Top 2000 can also be viewed at my blog  www.nedineurope.blogspot.com.  Published in 2022.

Ton van Zutphen, Leende, NL on 15th April 2023

 

Ton van Zutphen wandelend van Leende naar Overijse (B) via Overpelt, Diest en Leuven (eind maart-begin april 2023) / 4 dagen. Met plukjes geschiedenis!

Vriend Gerard van der Meeren woont alweer zo'n 10 jaar bij zijn geliefde/amant Annie in wat vroeger het druivendorp Overijse heette. Nu is het een D.D. (duur dorp) geworden voor rijke Belgen en met heel veel buitenlanders waarvan velen belastingvrije salarissen innen en bij de EU, NAVO en ambassades in Brussel werken. Het zij zo en deze status zal wel voortduren de komende 10 jaar. 

 Grensovergang Achelse Kluis; hier grenzen Heeze-Leende en Hamont-Achel aan elkaar

Ik heb altijd de wandeling willen maken van Leende,  waar ik nu al zo'n dikke 5 jaar woon, naar Overijse dat streng vlaamstalig is en op 1 kilometer ligt van de taalgrens in Belgie, zo'n 15 kms. ten Zuiden van Brussel.

Sind ik terugben uit Mexico/Guatemala begin februari is het weer in NL echt naatje pet geweest. Grijs en grauw met veel regen. Uiteindelijk dacht ik 'beter wandelen met slecht weer dan achter de boeken zitten in mijn comfortabele doorzonwoning'. 

Mijn voorbereiding spitste zich vooral toe op waar te overnachten tijdens deze trip. Gelukkig ben ik lid van 'Vrienden op de Fiets', een kollektief van enthousiaste fietsers en wandelaars dat een overnachting met ontbijt aanbiedt voor 25 eurotjes. Een aanrader! Zie ook www.vriendenopdefiets.nl . Honderden adressen, ook in Belgie, dus ik vond er twee in Diest en Leuven waar ik kon slapen, en op het laatste moment ook een B&B in Overpelt-Zuid voor de eerste nacht.

Weersvoorspelling dag 1,2 en 3 was regelmatig regen, voortdurende bewolking, max. 8 graden en winderig. Ja, dat heb ik geweten...edoch minder gevoeld.Inderdaad 3 dagen met veel regen en wind. Beetje fris ook vooral in de ochtend tot zo'n 12 uur. Wel had ik mijn hoge 'Lowa Camino GTX' (goretex) schoeisel aan, lange waterafstotende broek, merk 'Kolping', en mijn waterdichte 'Patagonia  H2NO' runners jack. En last but not least mijn 'RedFace' poncho. En al deze kleding dagelijks gebruikt!

Dus uiteindelijk heb ik veel regen gezien maar nat geworden nee. Zo'n 100 mm. is er toch wel gevallen tijdens mijn trektocht.

Goed gemutst (met pet op!) vertrok ik van Orchideestraat 3 richting Leenderstrijp en stak de Heerstraat over om door het Leenderbos naar de Achelse Kluis te banjeren (in de regen).

De Heerstraat moet in het verleden toch de verbinding zijn geweest tussen het Leenderbos (vanuit Eindhoven en Tilburg) en het boerengehucht Leenderstrijp (richting Weert); ik denk zo rond 1400, en 'heer' refereert aan het Duitse woord 'Heer' dat leger betekent. Sommige van deze Heerbanen (Heirbanen) in Europa gaan terug tot de Romeinse tijd (zoals die van Maastricht naar Nijmegen/Arnhem) of werden aangelegd door de legers (met veel Duitse huurlingen) en dorpelingen tijdens de periode vanaf rond 1500 t/m 1675 toen Prins Willem van Oranje-Nassau = Willem de Zwijger en de 'zijnen' oorlog voerden tegen de Spanjolen en in latere instantie ook tegen iedereen die katholiek was. 

Tja en dan zijn er in Belgie de mooie namen van 'steenweg en chaussee' die in eerste instantie aangelegd werden tussen de grote steden om na 1850 het vervoer per koets en auto te versnellen. Als je 100 jaar geleden bijv. aan de Torhoutse steenweg woonde in Oostende (zoals mijn oud-achter tante Liza) dan behoorde je tot de upper ten, tot de natnekken of speknekken. Allemaal grote huizen, maisons de maitres met veel art deco, en met een ruime koer voor koets en paard / fin de siecle grondstukken tijdens het welvarende bewind van Koning Leopold II. Belgie staat vol van deze prachtige huizen hoewel de meesten nu te dicht bij de weg staan en de bewoners veel last hebben van het gemotoriseerd verkeer.

Over huizen gesproken...in Nederland zijn ze klein, op percelen van tegenwoordig max. 220 vierkante meter, maar ja wat wil je met 18 miljoen inwoners / en we gaan op naar de 20 miljoen in de komende 10-15 jaar! Maar over het algemeen zijn de designs redelijk presentabel. Dan in Bels, het is ofwel schoonheid op het eerste gezich met klassieke torentjes, bogen en verandas, ofwel afschuwelijke recente bouwbaksels van veel zwart en grijs en i.p.v. een groene tuin gravel en kiezel hetgeen men nu onderhoudsarm noemt. Vaak kun je niet binnenkijken bij de Belgen, ook al omdat de vensters klein zijn. Moet toch allemaal donker zijn van binnen denk ik zo. Dit soort huizen geeft een signaal af van 'laat me met rust / alleen; keep out!' En dan amai...veel kunstgras niet te geloven.  Ja, de Belgen en 'Hollanders' zoals wij door onze zuiderburen steevast benoemd worden zijn toch anders.

Er ligt nogal wat historie in Brabant en hiermede bedoel ik de Regio Brabant die 500 jaar geleden liep van grofweg Nijmegen/Den Bosch naar Antwerpen en kust tot Duinkerken, dan via Bergen (Mons) en Tongeren (grenzend aan het Prinsdom Luik) naar Maastricht. Een gebied bijna zo groot als het huidige Nederland. Een belangrijk deel van de 80 jarige oorlog vond plaats in Brabant (1568-1648) en aan het eind van deze oorlog was Brabant waar ik geboren ben zo verarmd door het brandschatten en plunderen van de doortrekkkende (deels Duitse huurlingen) legers dat er inderdaad gesproken kan worden van miserabele aardappeleters, zo typisch geportretteerd in 1885 door Vincent van Gogh in Nuenen. Tussentijds was ook Napoleon verscheidene keren keren door Brabant geraasd. Enfin rond 1825 was Brabant zo arm als Job maar wel met veel grote katholieke families waardoor Philips Gloeilampenfabrieken rond 1910 aan duizenden arbeiders emplooi kon geven. Mannen en vrouwen zat in Brabant! Op een gegeven moment in 1930 werkte mijn vader en mijn moeder beiden bij Philips in Strijp.

Leende zelf is een historisch dorp, het eerst benoemd in een document in het jaar 1225 en hoewel klein heeft het alles (gehad) behalve een kasteel. Het Leenderbos en de heide (nu de 'Groote Heide') loopt van Stratum-Eindhoven tot aan Bocholt in Belgie. Enkel de Veluwe heeft een groter oppervlak. 200 Jaar geleden was het een lange dagreis te voet door deze bossen en heide van Eindhoven naar Weert en van Eindhoven naar Achel-Hamont.  Zie ook: Jean Coenen, LEENDE, Geschiedenis van een dorp met een ondernemende bevolking uit 1997.

Als je nu het Leenderbos uitkomt en de grens oversteekt richting Achel zie je direkt de 'Dooden Draad' en het oude Benediktijner klooster 'Achelse Kluis'waar vroeger een heel goede Trappist werd gebrouwen. De 'Dooden Draad' liep langs de grens tussen NL en Belgie tijdens Wereldoorlog 1. Deze afrastering was geelectrificeerd en 'doodelijk', en moest ervoor zorgen dat er geen Belgen vluchtten naar het neutrale NL.  In Hamont-Achel zijn ook de 'Teuten' bekend: rondreizende handelaren (velen van Joodse afkom) die sinds 1500 hun ambachtelijke producten (textiel, koper) verkochten tot in Duitsland (Teutone = Teuten?) toe. Er staan nog een 20-tal prachtige herenhuizen waar deze Teuten-families resideerden. 

En dan loop ik over de Kluizerdijk naar de 'Witteberg' langs het jagerspad in Achel-West naar Neerpelt; langs de oude verdwenen spoorlijn Neerpelt-Valkenswaard. Hier werd op 9 juni 1944 een trein opgeblazen door het Belgische verzet, het 'Geheime Leger'. Dat moet een klap geweest zijn: de trein vervoerde brokstukken van neergeschoten geallieerde vliegtuigen die de Duitsers bij elkaar gesprokkeld hadden en die naar die Heimat getransporteerd werden om weer gerecycled te worden voor de oorlogvoering. Op 6 juni 1944 was D-Day (invasie op de Normandische stranden in Frankrijk), en op 6 September al was Leopoldsburg bevrijd; en Eindhoven op 18 September. With hindsight...dat is destijds toch allemaal rap gegaan. Brabant werd al in September 1944 bevrijd....maar Generaal Montgomery kon Arnhem niet veroveren en de beruchte hongerwinter in NL was het gevolg. Het was 'a bridge too far' dwz de brug bij Arnhem over de Rijn. Op school leerden we dat de mensen bloembollen aten van de honger...ja, haha die hadden ze in Holland boven de rivieren genoeg. Jakkes!! Getverderrie!!

Dag 1 dus van Leende naar Overpelt-Zuid en overnachten in B&B 't Gehucht aan het eind van de langgerekte Hoevenstraat / begin Kortestaart. Prima logies met rijkelijk ontbijt. Ik was kapot moe zeggen de Limburgers...24 kms met mijn heavy boots en slecht weder. Ik at de rest van mijn packed lunch op, nam een douche en zocht mijn kooi op.  Day over at 5pm. 

Dag 2 van Overpelt naar Diest: 29 kms.

Ik was al voor 8 uur op weg...met continue regen, wandelend door de langgerekte lintdorpen Eksel en Hechtel. Ik dacht 'hopelijk gaat het seffens niet gieten als ik op de 5 kms. lange Kamperweg loop'. Deze weg, dwars door de Militaire Domeinen aangelegd door Koning Leopold 1 na de Napoleontische tijd wordt druk bereden door zwaar verkeer. Pfff, veel herrie en opspattend water. Maar rond half elf zat ik in het cafe voor de rotonde links aan een koffie waar ik een grote toef slagroom bij kreeg en een mini vlaaitje @ 2,40 eurotjes. En een een fijne bediening door een charmante Belgische blondine. Aan de tafel naast mij werd ook koffie gedronken en toen kwam ineens Sjors binnen. Zonder iets te zeggen werd er een Duvel bokaal neergezet en nadat monsieur Sjors zijn regenjas aan de kapstop had gehangen stond het Duvel dikbuikje al voor zijn neus. Een beetje vroeg voor een pot sop van 8,5 % naar mijn smaak maar niet naar de smaak van Sjors dus! En wellicht een dagelijks ritueel. In NL zie je dit toch niet. Leuk centrum dat van Leopoldsburg. Deze garnizoensstad heeft zo ongeveer de helft van alle Belgische soldaten zien gaan en komen. Vandaar de vele staminees peis ik. Bij het station staat een Amerikaanse Sherman tank met Firefly kanon in vol ornaat ter herinnering aan het begin van 'Operation Market Garden'. 

Doorlopen Ton, het weer bleef slecht in Heppen, en in Ham. In dit mijnwerkersdorp kwam ik langs een monument ter ere van de Brancadiers, een katholieke organsatie van ex-mijnwerkers en weduwen van mijnwerkers die zich ten dienste stellen van zieken, gehandicapten en bejaarden. In Belgie werd de laatste kolenmijn gesloten in 1994. In NL werd de allerlaatste steenkool uit de Oranje Nassaumijn in Heerlen in 1974 naar boven gehaald. Zwaar en ondankbaar werk; 'Glueckauf' was de mijnwerkersgroet, want je wist maar nooit of je ook weer boven kwam! Wel goedbetaald. Emile Zola heeft in zijn boek 'De Mijn' de uitzichtloze misere van de mijnwerkers aan de kaak gesteld in Noord Frankrijk aan het eind van de 19e eeuw. Das war einmal......

Monument Mijnwerkerslamp in Ham

Dan verder via de de Fazantenweg aan een mooie bosrand naar het Albertkanaal en richting Tessenderlo over het pas aangelegde snelfietspad. Mooi mooi, een snelfietspad van Leopoldsburg naar Diest stond er op het plakkaat...en dan na 5 kms. verdwijnt het pad ineens. Mijn google gaf aan dat ik eerst naar Hulst moest en dan via de Hofstraat weer richting Diest......had ik het maar niet gedaan. Er kwam geen eind aan deze omweg. Plus ik begon moe te worden. Dan maar liften...en de eerste auto stopte: 2 Roemenen in een dikke Audi break, die in Brussel een auto gingen ophalen....ze zetten me af aan het treinstattion in Diest. Toch nog bijna 30 kms. gelopen als ik de kms. erbij tel in Diest waar ik door de regen en door het mooie centrum kuierde. Een frietje met tartaar bij Gerry Frituurkot en een rustpauze in cafe 'De Kaai' alvorens om 7 uur mijn logies op te zoeken. 'Vrienden op de Fiets' fam. Cieters hadden een prima plek voor mij; uitstekend geslapen, gedouchet en ontbeten. Oprechte dank!! 

Ja en in Diest in de prachtige St. Sulpitiuskerk is ook begraven de oudste zoon van Willem de Zwijger die 25 jaar gegijzeld werd in Spanje door Karel V en en zijn opvolger Philips II. Deze zoon, Philips Willem van Oranje stierf in 1618 in Brussel als overtuigd katholiek en als buitenbeentje omdat toendertijd alle 'Oranjes' alreeds het protestantisme volmondig en officieel uitdroegen. Overigens had Willem de Zwijger een eerste bastaardzoon verwekt in 1559 (hij was toen 26 jaar jong). Deze Justinus werd een belangrijk diplomaat en krijgsheer voor protestants Holland. Een berekenend en procesmatig opererend persoon/bevelhebber Willem de Zwijger was. Ook een notoire schuinsmarcheerder en 'coureur de jupons'.  4 Keer getrouwd niet uit liefde maar uit berekening / enfin in die tijd was dat normaal. Alles mooi opgetekend door de historicus Rene van Stipriaan in diens boek: 'De Zwijger, het leven van Willem van Oranje'.

Dag 3 van Diest naar Leuven : 29 kms.

Mijn gastheer Cieters kreeg gelijk: het weer verslechterde en ik kreeg meer en meer regen op mijn pet. Ik liep langs de Demer naar Zichem op een zwart pad dat slijk was geworden en de natuur om me heen asgrauw; geen vogel te horen of te zien. Het water van de Demer rivier had zelfs een antraciet kleur, zo donker allemaal. Was dit het begin van de lente? Uit niets, rien du tout, kon ik het opmaken. Ik sjokte stevig door, zorgvuldig de diepe waterplassen mijdend. In Zichem door het dorp naar Scherpenheuvel alwaar ik het geluk had in de fraaie koepelvormige basiliek van O.L.Vrouw de mis te mogen bijwonen om 10 uur. Pelgrimsplaats! Ook ter zegening van de coureurs en hun fietsen door de pastoor. Buiten stond al een groep renners van zo'n 25 mannen/vrouwen te wachten. Allemaal zeikenat en onder de moddder!

Basiliek O.L. Vrouw te Scherpenheuvel

Doorlopen in de regen naar Bekkevoort zo'n 5 kms. verderop, en door de velden uiteindelijk aankomend bij het rusthuis 'Hof ter Heyde'. Lekker binnenzitten en ook 'een repos was me wel gegund' zei de administrateur. Ik verorberde mijn lunch van bananen, brood, en koude tee en voelde me gelukkig. De bewoners die hier 'rusten' verschilden in niets van de bewoners in Leenderhof dat wij een zorgcentrum noemen. Wel rook het eten hier beduidend aantrekkelijker dan in NL!

Ik sloeg de mooie weg in naar Tielt-Winge....weer zo'n kilometerslange lintbebouwing; mooie hoeves en grote percelen met kleinvee. Er kwam maar geen einde aan. Opeens bedacht ik bij het lezen van hoe een buskaart te kopen dat dit voor mij onmogelijk zou zijn...cash kan niet meer; een app die gelinkt is aan mijn NL bank kan ook niet, een abonnementskaart had ik ook niet....met mijn VISA kaart misschien? Neen, ik denk dat als buitenlander je in Belgie niet meer een bus op het platteland kunt nemen. Zou ik het halen om naar Leuven te lopen...? Het was nog zo'n 16 kms vanuit Tielt. Ik besloot de grote nationale weg te pakken in geval ik wilde liften. En dat pakte goed uit. Na zo'n 10 kms kwam ik in St.Joris Winge en liftte door naar Kessel-Lo, zo'n 3 kms van Leuven. Toch wel weer moe in de benen! Bij het station in Leuven was het een drukte van jewelste; en gezellig. Ik ging binnen bij Cafe-Restaurant 'de la Gare' en ging er eens goed voor zitten in deze fraaie uitspanning: stoofvlees a la maison, frites, salade en een Stella Artois uit het vat! Daarna eens rustig door de stad gewandeld en de mooie gebouwen bewonderd (ook het gevang dat midden in de stad ligt en nog in gebruik is). Inderdaad Leuven lijkt me een fantastisch oord om te studeren en plezier te maken. Ik checkte in bij gastvrouw Kimpen aan de Vlamingenstraat die me een ruime studio aanbood van alle gemakken voorzien. Ook hier werd ik een blijde slaper! 

Dag 4 van Leuven naar Overijse : 16 kms. 

Na een uitstekend ontbijt trok ik de stoute schoenen weer aan...haha met dien verstande dat het nu duidelijk was dat mijn 'Lowa Camino' niet meegaat naar de tocht Lourdes-Santiago de Compostela die dit najaar op het programma staat. Deze hiking boot is te zwaar voor lange tochten van meer dan 20kms iedere dag. Maar ik ben een 'Lowa' fan dus misschien toch de 'Renegade' of de nog lichtere 'Taurus'. We zullen zien; ik vertrek pas midden September.  

Met amice Gerard had ik een afspraak gemaakt en we vertrokken rond 10 uur, nadat ik nog een tijdje in de prachtige St. Pieterskerk verwijld had. Het was Palmpasen, de dag dat Jesus als de verlosser Jerusalem werd binnengehaald door het Joodse volk. En ook ik moet dan nog gewijde palmtakjes bestellen bij onze pastoor in Leende / niet vergeten Ton!

 Leuven was rustig op de zondagmorgen en we liepen eerst naar Heverlee langs het kasteel Arenberg. Ook deze adellijke familie kwam oorspronkelijk uit Duitsland (Eifel-ruine kasteel Arenberg), net als de Oranje-Nassaus (uit Dillenburg). Willem van Oranja had veel langdurige bondgenoten in zijn overleg en strijd met de Spanjolen. De meest standvastigen onder hen waren  de Graaf van Horne (uit Heeze), Jean de Ligne, Graaf van Arenberg, en de Graven van Egmond en van Brederode, naast veel edelen uit het Brabantse die overal net als Willem van Oranje, verspreid over NoordWest Europa 'gebiedjes'/graafschappen, heerlijkheden enz. in bezit hadden (als bonus) gekregen door mee te vechten met de legers van Karel V en zijn zoon Filips II. 

Prins Willem van Oranje-Nassau alias 'De Zwijger' en Vader des Vaderlands
(Dillenburg 1533- Delft 1584)

Willem van Oranje refereert aan het gebied Prinsdom Orange in Zuid Franklrijk dat de familie al in bezit kreeg door verhuwelijking/vererving in 1502. Vandaar ook  ook de wapenspreuk 'Je maintiendrai'. Overigens heeft Willem de Zwijger het prinsdom Orange nooit kunnen bezoeken (maar wel de belastingen geind!).  De Nassaus bezaten door vererving een klein kasteel in Breda maar inderdaad de familie is van 'Duitschen bloed' zoals zo duidelijk staat in ons volkslied. Jean de Ligne stierf tijdens de slag bij Heiligerlee in 1568 tegen de succesvolle jongere protestantse broers van Willem: ene Lodewijk en Adolf. De laatste verloor het leven hier ook. Edoch wat wij niet leerden op school is dat het leger van Lodewijk volledig in de pan werd gehakt enkele weken later bij de slag van Jemmingen in Duitsland door de Spanjaarden van onze grote vijand de Hertog van Alva .  Lodewijk kon op het laatste moment de Eems overzwemmen en naar de vrije stad Emden vluchten.

Het nog steeds imposante kasteel van Arenberg met torens en gracht is nu eigendom van de Katholieke Universiteit Leuven (volgende keer bezoekje brengen!). Overigens is de KU Leuven de oudste katholieke universiteit ter wereld: gesticht op voorspraak van Hertog Jan IV van Brabant door een bul van Paus Martinus V in 1425.

Kasteel Arenberg te Heverlee

De Dijle met hoog water

De wandeling van Leuven naar Overijse via Heverlee en Neerijse gaat langs de riviertjes de Dijle en de Ijse. Een partout mooi, gevarieerd landschap met vee in de weiden, meanderende riviertjes, oude hoeves, veel broeklanden dus erg nat waardoor ook nu al honderden ganzen te zien waren. Schoon,  mooi en rustgevend. Het was toch nog koud rond de 7 graden zonder regen weliswaar, dus bij de Smeysberg (een kuitentikker tijdens de Brabantse Pijl wielerwedstrijd!) in Huldenberg hielden we het voor gezien en werd Annie gebeld die ons subiet kwam ophalen.

s'Morgens langs de Dijle (Gerard en Ton)

Daarna lekker rusten met een Frueh Koelsch, Urquell Pilsen, en Bitburg op de bank, een Spaans geitekaasje erbij,  kijkend naar de Ronde van Vlaanderen die door Pogacar werd gewonnen. De afsluiter was een dinertje met lamskoteletten, petattenstomp (aardappelpuree), groenten en een St. Emillion grand cru uit 2017...a ja plus een heerlijke artisanale pruimentaart van de lokale patissier toe. Merci bien Annie!

Dag 5 van de Daloensdelle in Overijse met de Volvo limousine van Gerard naar het Groenewoud spoorstation en per trein naar Brussel Noord - Antwerpen Centraal tot Neerpelt eindhalte. Vandaar wandelend naar Leende: 17 kms.

Als 65 plusser kun je in Belgie a raison de 7,80 eurotjes de hele dag vanaf 9 uur 's morgens rondreizen. Dat kostte mijn treinbiljet. In NL had hetzelfde biljet zeker het vijfvoudige gekost! Maar ja in NL worden de pensionados gezien als rijke mensen die overal aan mee moeten betalen (melkkoeien)  en voor wie alle kortingen op openbaar vervoer, musea en wat dies meer zei al jaren geleden zijn afgeschaft. Lekker rustig in de trein, veilig en warm! Vanaf Neerpelt is het feitelijk rechtdoor naar Leende bijna 4 uur stappen inclusief een rustpauze en grotendeels door de bossen van Achel en Leende.

Nog even stoppen en dank zeggen in de St. Jan Baptista kapel in Leenderstrijp die dateert uit de 15e eeuw en aan de achterkant ligt van de Heerstraat. Om 4 uur 's middags weer thuis en voldaan. Het was mooi geweest. 30 Kms. dagelijks is net iets teveel met mijn zware 'Lowa Camino' stappers en 6 kg. op de rug.

Weer wat gerealiseerd en niet de eerste keer:  het lichaam wordt ouder en niet sterker! Echter er zit nog wat fut in! En de goesting van het wandelen blijft; en is vooralsnog geen zelfkastijding.

In totaal toch zo'n 116 kilometertjes gewandeld. Even vlug gerekend zo ongeveer met de natte vinger: zo'n 145.000 stappen. Allez, maak er maar 150.000 van!

Ton van Zutphen

Leende, 7 April 2023